Rear shock body stuck on F/F T1's
Before the thought of them being all gummed up NO these things are damn near new! no grim on the threads at all. The issue is the shock body seems to be stuck and all that's spinning is the 2 upper collar rings and ******* with the preload, I tried taking the preload off the springs and the shock body still won't turn. For ppl wondering this is a "full body coilover" what I circled in orange keeps turning no matter what, the body it's self is stuck I put tons of WD-40 on them even but they look like the ones in the photo...new. I've made sure both lock rings are tight when trying to get the body to move.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
I'm not sure what you mean. I was referring to the bottom collar. The one that locks the body. Not the two that lock the spring. Did you loosen that? None of this has anything to do with preload, BTW.
when the shock body stays still and you're compressing the spring only that's preload. Which is what's happening here the car was bouncy when I had the thing all the way down then I raised the perches only with the shock body staying still, making it solid as ****.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Wait....so this whole time you were lowering and raising it by lowering and raising the spring perches? I don't understand....
Why?
Do you have them off the car or are they still on the car? I would do this while they're assembled and on the car:
Jam the (top two) spring perch collars together like crazy.
Loosen the very bottom lock collar (the singular one)
If you're trying to turn the shock body UPwards:
put one spanner wrench on the bottom one of the two top collars (stay with me) and turn the wrench counterclockwise looking from the top. It'll move.
If trying to move the shock body DOWNwards:
Put the spanner wrench on the top most collar and turn clockwise looking from the top.
I usually put a dab of anti sieze on those threads to prevent the sticking, BTW.
Why?
Do you have them off the car or are they still on the car? I would do this while they're assembled and on the car:
Jam the (top two) spring perch collars together like crazy.
Loosen the very bottom lock collar (the singular one)
If you're trying to turn the shock body UPwards:
put one spanner wrench on the bottom one of the two top collars (stay with me) and turn the wrench counterclockwise looking from the top. It'll move.
If trying to move the shock body DOWNwards:
Put the spanner wrench on the top most collar and turn clockwise looking from the top.
I usually put a dab of anti sieze on those threads to prevent the sticking, BTW.
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If you're trying to turn the shock body UPwards:
put one spanner wrench on the bottom one of the two top collars (stay with me) and turn the wrench counterclockwise looking from the top. It'll move.
If trying to move the shock body DOWNwards:
Put the spanner wrench on the top most collar and turn clockwise looking from the top.
I usually put a dab of anti sieze on those threads to prevent the sticking, BTW.
ok i'll give that a shot, always WD-40'd them when I was down there the threads look good just the thing is stuck.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Lmk how it worked out. On those coilovers, you're supposed to use the shock body to adjust height...not the spring perches. The point being that you maintain 100% shock travel while lowering the car.
and yah the front are fine but for some reason the rears are stuck, worth taking them off and bringing them to a garage ?. maybe they need to be heated ? afaik there is no gas it in bottom part or at least the red part that the body screws in.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Are the assemblies still on the car? Why did my method not work? What happened when you tried it? Help us help you.
yes they're on the car bolted in tight. The perches just moved(preload) like last time the collars are tight together so the 2nd wrench held by my left hand just turned as my right is obv stronger, actually what it was doing was separating the top perch rings.
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
If you're seperating the perch rings, you did it wrong. My method will force the two together. You ever installed or taken a stud out using 2 jam nuts? This is exactly the same principle.
You trying to move the body up or down?
You trying to move the body up or down?
they never separated, but I'm saying the bottom lock ring being held still when you're trying to spin the top counter clock would in theory be separating them. But my issues remains just the preload gets messed with, soaked them with wd-40 even got some in from the bottom the threads are clean tho barley any grim even before all this. I was trying to get them up yes I know the only last thing I could think of is locking the 3rd and final ring against the top 2 perches...
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
You'd be spinning the middle one counter clockwise to move the shock body upwards. Not the top. They would just keep jamming together more if you did that. They would not seperate.
Unless you're saying that the two top collars just spun upwards together and moved away from the bottom one.
And yes...you can use the bottom one as a 3rd jam nut.
Unless you're saying that the two top collars just spun upwards together and moved away from the bottom one.
And yes...you can use the bottom one as a 3rd jam nut.
You'd be spinning the middle one counter clockwise to move the shock body upwards. Not the top. They would just keep jamming together more if you did that. They would not seperate.
Unless you're saying that the two top collars just spun upwards together and moved away from the bottom one.
And yes...you can use the bottom one as a 3rd jam nut.
Unless you're saying that the two top collars just spun upwards together and moved away from the bottom one.
And yes...you can use the bottom one as a 3rd jam nut.
ok i'll give that a try making sure it stays on the middle perch, no if I do it from the top collar the preload just gets messed with. it's the smallest may not do anything it's just a bit bigger then the shock body.
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