94 integra ls

The last owner said the brake booster needs to be replaced because of a vacuum leak. I have to pump the brakes to stop, or the pedal falls to the floor with no brake pressure, i let it come up and i have full power again. Takes like five to ten seconds to fall. Is it the booster? IF so, how hard is it to replace?

Also, how/where do i adjust the emergency brake cables? IT barely holds the car when fully pulled. disc brakes at all 4 corners

 

Probably a leak in the master cylinder.

 

x2

If it was the booster, the pedal would be super hard and ou would have to stand on it to stop.

If you are going to change the MC yourself, make sure you use a line wrench on the brakelines and bench bleed the new MC before installing

 

Wouldn't that mean there is brake fluid leaking somewhere?

And is the master cylinder a straight forward job?

Also, i would like some help with teh e brake question

 

see pages 19-13 to 19-15:

http://www.spooledupracing.com/downl...als/FSM/Honda/

 

bleed it first before you replace things

Yes but it's a big pain time/space wise soak all the line fittings with PB Blaster and only use a line wrench

take the arm rest off and tighter then nut that attaches to the bracket holding the cable ends, however have the rear up so you can tell if you over did it. 2nd note they do stretch over time with a 94 that may be the case, replacement is easy just time consuming

 

if air is in the brake lines, could that also cause the same scenario where i have to pump the breaks?

 

Dude, it's the brake master cylinder. Just replace the thing and bleed all the lines. Had the exact same problem, just do the job.

 

Check that all your slide pins move freely and bleed the brakes to start.

The e brake adjustment is accesible by either removing the center console or the little access panel behind the center console (visible from the back seat).

I think i already made some of these suggestions to you. You've been having this issue for a while, I think?

I also said to make sure that the rear caliper slots are aligned with the nub/peg on the brake pad because that would cause some of your issues.

Or was the issue before that your brakes were stuck on?

 

I would bleed the brakes out first before you do the overhual on changing the cylinder. Get ahold of a Haines manual and check how to do it. There is a certain order you have to go to bleed all four corners correctly. If I had the manual with me I'd tell you right now. But to answer your parking brake question. You will have to remove the arm rest to get to the parking brake lines. All you have to do is tighten them up with a wrench.

 

We are forgetting about the parking brake issue for now. I'm putting that one on the back burner, I'm just gonna replace the entire setup, calipers, rotors, and pads on the rear, and back off the parking brake adjusting nut so when I put it back together I can properly calibrate the handle to where it should be. Rockauto has some amazing prices on some name brand stuff here.

As for the brake lines, I was simply asking because it would be a whole lot easier to bleed the brakes and see if that fixes the issue than it would be to replace the master cylinder. simple stuff first. I'm pretty sure somewhere on this forum someone mentioned bleeding the brakes to fix this issue.

 

Also, the reason i am replacing the calipers is because the parking brake actuator lever on top of the caliper is seized, and sticks too hard for the return springs to move it back where it should be. tapping it with a hammer or a wrench makes it unstick it's way back to the stop position.


And yes, I have used PB blaster and liquid wrench. I literally soaked one caliper with a whole can and all it did was clean out gunk.

 

I've had that issue before. I had to cut the bracket out because the bolts were completely seized. Is common if there not properly greased/lubed. I had to rebuild my whole rear brakes/suspension, including every bolt/washers and nuts.

 

fun