Sent my gsr gears in to libertys for treatment and faceplates and just got it back. I am having a hell of a time/can't do it.... Getting the case to close. I've had good experience with all the regular pitfalls ie. double check the shims, manually shift while case is an inch from closing etc.

Libertys sent the main and counter shafts back to me fully assembled with a handcuff, so I doubt there is any issue with the assembly.

What am I missing? The case never gets to the point where the snap ring is in play.

I can post pictures if needed

 

The top steel shim that sits under the main shaft bearing had a pointed tang that sits only one way inside the case, is it clocked in the correct position?
I've seen guys have it pointed in the wrong location and can't get the cases together..

I've also heard that some 5 gear cuffs require clearancing the inside of the case..

 

Liberty cuff doesent require clearancing, is this the first time you have put a tranny together or do you have experience?

 

How far apart is the case, is it thatvtye snap ring won't go back on or is there still a big gap in the case, with the cuff I have to lift the counter shaft up inside the cuff , since they are connected together it will not come in to the snap ring easily unless u do this

Also before you put it together in my experience it's better to remove every dealing with 5 except the hub and cut the arms off the 5th gear shift fork, also removing the synchro for reverse

 

I've put a few cases together personally and seen many done. I wouldn't call myself a pro, but I'm not flying blind either..

It doesn't get close enough to just deal with snap ring....I know the tricks with that...I wish I were just dealing with that.

It may be that I need to lift up on the counter shaft, but my previous gearset did not need the same.

The tang piece is facing the correct way and I left the top cone intact to be sure reverse engaged properly....

I'm trying to get a visual for what you cut and remove on the shift fork.... Can you elaborate or post a pic?

Thanks for the help dudes.

 

He's saying to cut the fork off entirely, leaving only the shaft for 5th.

 

Shouldn't need to cut any shift forks at all. That's not going to be your problem any way.

My suggestion would be remove everything from the bell housing besides the two gear stacks. Pull out the SCHA, the shift forks, reverse idler gear setup, etc.

Then attempt to put the back half of the case back on. If it won't go on then check all case shims and washers and start measuring stuff from the service manual. If all checks out liberty did something wrong.

If the case goes back on with all the extra stuff removed. Place different parts in one at a time until you run into the same problem again. Then u have your answer.

 

^^ I like that. Will do

Thanks

 

the shift rods hardly ever fall in to their holes for me i always have to wiggle the case around to get the shift rods to fall into their top case holes.

 

You don't have to jut and remove all the 5th stuff but it cleans it up, still trying to figure out how far the case is separated, s the case closed just can't get the snap ring, or is there a 1/4,1/2,1 I. Gap in the case

 

Put it in 3rd or 4th gear before trying to put the case down. it will help the rods line up in the holes easier... hope this helps

 

Make sure the transmission is elevated some so that the mainshaft is not being pushed up from the workbench plane. If this, and all other options have failed, it's time to disassemble the gears.

 

I also would double check how liberty assembled the gears, they might have put 1 of the gear wrong/ (upside down)?

 

Thanks fellas... I'm going to work on it a bit today and report.

 

With our liberty stuff (both faceplated and their gearset) i always noticed the small rod in the shift SCHA was always a pain to align, I think I had to put it in 3rd to make is stay where i needed it. With out the syncros in there the sliders are free to fall where ever they want making this part tougher.

 

^****

 

Alright, finally got some time to work on this a bit. Not looking good.

I removed everything minus the spool and gear stacks. put the case on and it comes up like this


Here is a look at the top with the snap ring not even close to having any pressure on it hard to tell from the photo....


Have no idea what to look for with the gear stack....anybody see anything?

 

is the spool new I've seen people need to clearance where the spool sits because its not sitting all the way down

 

Something wrong with the main shaft stack after the cuff
Maybe there is a shim on top of it?
The hub/slider assembly looks really high
Causing the bearing to sit higher on the main shaft and keeping the case from dropping down enough
The very top brass synchro on the main shaft should be close to if not at the same height as where the snap ring locks on the countershaft

 

I can't figure out how to post pic's but check out this website scroll down there is a open case and u can see the very top synchro on the main shaft is at level with the lock ring groove on the counter bearing


http://www.vadriven.com/forums/engin...g-asap-396288/

 

Mine looked like this and closed easily

 

Spool sits fine and wouldn't be the issue anyway since the snap ring isn't coming in contact with the counter shaft.


The gearset you are referencing isn't handcuffed or faceplated..... I feel like the cuff changes the last cone of synchros on the main shaft a bit.

 

I understand the pic isn't a liberty faceplated or cuffed setup but the overall height from the top of the bearing to the first gear on the main shaft should be the same no matter what for the case to close
The counter shaft looks correct and the main shaft looks good till after the cuff, I'd be willing to bet the main shaft sits farther down inside the top bearing than the one on this page..
Lol scroll down to see a liberty cuff'd and faceplated pic

https://honda-tech.com/forums/showthread.php?p=43923628

 

Hrmmm
I wonder if the top piece under the main shaft bearing is upside down?
The cone end of it should be facing down going into the very top brass synchro, looks like it's upside down in the pic causing the bearing to sit higher..

U can see the difference between ur gear stack and the others posted that ur main shaft bearing has a higher clearance under it than any other..
Remove the bearing off the shaft and see if the piece that sits in the synchro needs to be flipped

 

The snap ring groove should be roughly the same height as the 5th gear syncro. The problem is on the input shaft side and it appears to be around the cuff and above area.