I plan on going K20aR in the near future. how much would a complete changeover b18c type r sell for? Everything from USDM p73 ecu, harness, mounts, axles, USDM 01 112k miles short block, 98 spec+ unknown mileage bottom block and anything not needed for a k swap go for?

 

~$3.5k for b18c5

i just went to k20r and it's the best move i ever made in this car.

 

any difference in the weight balance?

I am not familiar with how the k is positioned

 

good thread

 

^sarcasm?

 

Not at all, curious to see everyone's thoughts on weight comparison and those that made the k20 jump from a b18 motor.

Sorry, if I came off that way.

 

k24a2> k20a. just my .02. i have a k24a2 and love it.

 

i thought the next big thing would be k24 block w/ k20 head...provided they have the same head bolt pattern and it would all line up..



new wave cr/vtec or a bored out ls/vtec..

 

A member on nwp has had a difficult time selling his 2000 b18c5 with I think 55k miles and paperwork. he's been asking 4,200obo

 

Just picking your brain sir, why so? What do you like/dislike about the swap?

 

K24A2 head is just as good as the K20A2 head, why go through all that work for no gain? Also, the TSX cams are the best stock K series cams made.

I would also say go K24 over K20. The peak power might be close to the same, but the midrange torque is not even close. And, K24's are usually cheaper than a K20 Type R.

 

To each their own, but doing this to a car that is not a salvage title or a car that has pre-existing issues with the original engine...I don't see the point in killing the value of an original car.

I don't know your situation OP but I hope you have thought this through.

 

Couldn't agree more

Ali

 

100% not true

the tsx head any year sucks *** for flow. even after porting you will not get power after 7k stock or 8k rpm ported.

the prb head is far better and the rsp fd2 head takes the cake.

with that said a completely stock tsx bottom end with type s head will make about 230hp-195tq or more. the k20R will never see 195 tq or anything close to that on an oem bottom end.

 

The way I look at K swaps is that not taking advantage of having a 2.4L is just ridiculous. Staying all motor you scrap for every last bit of power, and good power comes from displacement. I'm still a die hard B series fan but you can't argue with more modern technology.

 

For a lhd car, the balance of the car is improved with a kswap.

 

K24a2 here and I love the power....matched up with the Type R lsd tranny and its awesome verses the B18.

 

correct me if im wrong sir, but when doing ls/vtec or cr/vtec's back in the day, i remember people saying the best reasoning to go with a b18b1/a1/b20 block with a b16 head was not only the capacity for vtec, but because it would also bump up the compression as well..


would that be part of the reasoning behind doing a k24/20a in the same fashion?

 

Had a k20 in my PY R ended up selling it and swapped in a k24a2 best thing i ever did.

 

well for starters, ls/b20 vtecs with stock pistons are complete trash and a waste of time.

but to answer your question , the rsx type s head flows superior to any other kseries head except the fd2 head.

 

im taking notes for what could be the next project..



the reverse trans-axle (i think thats what its called..) has piqued my curiosity...i like how its set-up for efficiency purposes..

 

Someone would buy a C5 with 110k miles for $3500? I wouldn't.

A JDM B18C-R swap is like $3500. The C5 won't be a VIN matcher either and thd JDM swap would be lower mileage/slightly more HP...and you can get the 4.78 trans.

 

My friends have done K in their R and it is the best thing...
If you take out labor alone, Complete cost can go from 6k and up depending on what nice things you want. And that's with us getting hooked up and getting the complete K setup for cheap.

We usually get the complete DC5 for around 3k + Misc will be about 4k alone. And labor if you're paying for someone to do it is about 2k give or take. Average person, it'll cost give or take 10k to complete a K swap if you don't have any connections.

There won't be a noticeable weight difference. You'll feel the instant gain in torque to carry out any of your problems.

 

Everyone wants a super good deal and anything over $3,000, for a B18C5 isn't going to sell around here.

 

My ITR is clean titled but the bottom block isn't original. From the previous owner, he said he had a rod knock and replaced the bottom with a 98 spec.

I love the b18c. But I just want more power. I believe that the 01 usdm itr should've debuted with the k20a. It would've been a turning point for sales for the itr. I honestly just want more power for the car without having to go forced inductions or spend loads of money to even break 200hp n/a.

If I get the kswap, the itr is retiring from the streets and will be for weekend track purposes only.