The project is a 2000 civic ex that I had purchased for $1,500 missing a cylinder. I'm in the process of putting in a y7/y8 mini me in it to eventually either run a turbo setup on or a kraftwerks supercharger. The cars going to be mainly used for autocross and dd so I'm leaning more toward the supercharger.

Note the y7/y8 head are from japan so they are labled d16a. Same as d16y motors.

Pictures



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Here's a picture of the engine ready to go in. Y7 bottom end with a y8 head. Brand new stock flywheel, comp stage 4 clutch (Overkill I know), oem throw out and pilot bearing, arp head studs, water pump, tensioner and water pump.

I'm hoping to get the engine in the car this weekend, then the next project will be koni yellow/gc w/ top hats.

Pic of the engine about ready to go in after some cleaning.


Stole some cleaning products from the detail shop at work. Seems to be doing a pretty damn good job!

 

Today I got some time to put work in on the civic. Got the engine in and hooked up for the most part. All there is to do before the first start up is top off the anti-freeze and put the front end back together and axles in!

Im happy with the way it's turning out though! This is the first civic I have owned that is clean and not rusted out.

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I did the crank sensor bypass , topped off all the fluids and the car started and ran fine with no codes . Only thing holdin me back is a leak at the intake manifold gasket fml. It's causing my car to throw a p0505 code which is for the idle air control valve after idling and getting up to temp. Oh and I put a nut on too tight on one of my trans mounts and pulled the threads right out of it. Either way I drove the car so I'm making some good headway.

Bypass (jdm d16a doesnt have a crank sensor)

Stripped stud. Note the threads laying in the bottom of the hole. -_-

 

I came across a couple good deals from a fellow honda-tech member weavertime1. Got a set of black 16x7 rota slips and 440f 350r koni/gc coilovers with only 800 miles on both. Came off the same car.

I got the fronts on tonight and the rears will be on tomorrow!

 

i like where this is headed so far. what does it take to swap in a Y8 head?

 

1. Run a vtec wire or switch to a vtec harness.
2. Switch from a 3 wire to 2 wire iacv
3. Install a knock sensor in the y7 block and wire that into the harness.
4. Install new head bolts or arp head studs
5. Run a p2p y8 ecu.

If you want to make it easy on yourself find a y8 harness. That will have the vtec, knock sensor and proper iacv plug already wired in.

It was easy for me because my car is a ex so I already had the correct harness. I just went with the y7 bottom end because it was available at the time.

 

If you do turbo it, be careful with the Y7 block. The D16Y-series is known to spin rod bearings due to lack of oiling in the crank. That's on stock, NA, applications too. Adding boost just pushes the limits even more. Z6 crank solves this if you are interested.

This is a preference thing, but I'm not a rota fan. Maybe if they were a brighter color instead of black.

 

Freemananana. Thanks for pointing out the oiling issues with the y7/y8 crank. I thought about porting out the oil pump and all that but didn't because I dont plan on keeping a d series in it forever. Hopefully next year I will have either a ls/vtec or b20/vtec. For right now I want to get the car where I want it appearance/ suspension wise.

Thanks for your input on the wheels.

 

No worries. I'm not a wheel guy though. I just have a thing for silver/white wheels. I really like factory wheels actually. I'm boring haha. I believe it's the crank that causes the issues with the y7/y8. I'm not sure the oil pump porting will save it.

I'd go straight LS if you are going to boost it anyways.

 

The single cam will work out alright. Even if it doesn't it wont break my heart. lol

 

Finally got time to finish up the rear suspension last night. I'm really happy how it turned out. Today I plan on installing my oem si grill if it comes into the dealership and ordering a oem si lip. At that point I think i'm done with the exterior except possibly a tint.

Sorry for the shitty pictures.

 

Is it normal to have problems with mud flaps scraping with a couple inch drop? They're probably about 1/2 to 3/4" off the ground lol. Sucks I want to keep them on.

 

Si grill is on! Si lip next week hopefully.

 

the flaps will grind down and stop rubbing nice car btw

 

I like where this is going !!

 

Cant wait to see it with the lip!
Yes as Loganej8 mentioned, the mudflaps will grind down eventually and youll be ok!