Vomit's Build Thread. LOW BUDGET WARNING
So I guess I need to make a build thread, all the cool kids are doing it. Haha. THIS IS BRANDON BUDD'S OLD EG FOUR DOOR.

So, yeah. What I've done:
He cut out a hole that looked just awful without an intercooler in it. I just had to make it symmetrical. It bothered me A LOT.
BEFORE:

AFTER:

Bought Nabi's GSR swap. He lives by me, and gave me a great deal!

did a full tune up on it. plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coolant flush, cleaned out the vtec solenoid, thermostat and rad. cap.

I had this wheel

But then, I got this wheel.

I picked up some CRX wheels, and if I can't sell em, I may as well use them for the tires for awhile...

But, I would really love THESE wheels

I installed new coilovers, Eibach 16k in the front, 8k in the rear on Drop Engineering coilovers.

I made a tow hook for the rear out of a junk p72 rod
Rear(mounted)

Front(needs to be mounted as I just found a crash support)

Oh, i didn't like the look of the hood pins, and some b*tch hit me in the walmart parking lot, so now i have a clown car.



The brown is actually rustoleum textured paint, and it looks really cool in person, i think...it's a coupe hood. THE COUPE FRONT END WILL NOT FIT ON A SEDAN, NO MATTER WHAT YOU READ. Trust me, me and Nabi wasted an hour on a sunday trying to get it to work.
So now I'm looking at these colors...debating to spend the money on a honda and match the teal, or do a whole other color

I'm digging the sunburst yellow, the royal blue(very closely resembles SI blue), and the mochiacco brown or something like that...Enjoy!

So, yeah. What I've done:
He cut out a hole that looked just awful without an intercooler in it. I just had to make it symmetrical. It bothered me A LOT.
BEFORE:

AFTER:

Bought Nabi's GSR swap. He lives by me, and gave me a great deal!

did a full tune up on it. plugs, wires, cap and rotor, coolant flush, cleaned out the vtec solenoid, thermostat and rad. cap.

I had this wheel

But then, I got this wheel.

I picked up some CRX wheels, and if I can't sell em, I may as well use them for the tires for awhile...

But, I would really love THESE wheels

I installed new coilovers, Eibach 16k in the front, 8k in the rear on Drop Engineering coilovers.

I made a tow hook for the rear out of a junk p72 rod
Rear(mounted)

Front(needs to be mounted as I just found a crash support)

Oh, i didn't like the look of the hood pins, and some b*tch hit me in the walmart parking lot, so now i have a clown car.



The brown is actually rustoleum textured paint, and it looks really cool in person, i think...it's a coupe hood. THE COUPE FRONT END WILL NOT FIT ON A SEDAN, NO MATTER WHAT YOU READ. Trust me, me and Nabi wasted an hour on a sunday trying to get it to work.
So now I'm looking at these colors...debating to spend the money on a honda and match the teal, or do a whole other color

I'm digging the sunburst yellow, the royal blue(very closely resembles SI blue), and the mochiacco brown or something like that...Enjoy!
Last edited by Vomit; Dec 20, 2013 at 08:15 PM.
you need the link that looks like..... [IMG]GXVBFHVNHFFDBFVSK20HONDAB[/IMG] it's the bottom option on photo bucket when you click get links.
So I picked up this flywheel from a friend, but the contact patch is all worn down. Anyone know where I can order JUST THE CONTACT PATCH? I already tried calling a few companies(Comp. Clutch, Excedy, ACT) and they can't offer me any help because they don't know what's going on with the flywheel. It has no casting numbers on it anywhere to be found, which really surprises me. Help me out, Honda Gods!
-B18c1 8lb. Flywheel
-Needs Contact patch

-B18c1 8lb. Flywheel
-Needs Contact patch

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Found them on Craigslist. They rode fine for awhile, but I decided that they are way too bouncy. I'm saving up for the Blox pro drag series coilovers now. They are being sold on Ebay for $789.99 shipped.
Thanks man! I'm glad someone likes the idea! I wanted to rust the whole car, but I can't find any examples on the interweb of this car being rusted. It's all EF's and one EK, with some woodgrain design as the doors. So, I've decided to just use rustoleum 50/50 mix with acetone, so that the paint hardens faster.
as for the flywheel that's not an 8lb it must be a generic one originally off ebay, another warning you'll NEED that machined I it's even salvageable. A word of warning if he just took the bolts off randomly and not in a criss cross pattern it could be slightly warped. While not too likely it's just not something i'd take a chance on.

Dunno if I wanna do that anymore, haha. I'll come up with something else.
On that note, maybe I'll make it into a clock...Haha.
Found some on Summit for the same price. I'm going to go ahead and order one in a paycheck or two. As for machining, is it machined with the contact patch on or when it is off? I also found this:
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/AluminumFWLogo_4-13F.pdf
But it doesn't have a sequence of how to take off the bolts. I was just going to take off one bolt, at 12 o clock, then the corresponding bolt at 6 o clock. Is this the correct way(like taking apart a head), or do they have a sequence to follow? I've also seen youtube videos of the ring gear expanding and cooling at an inefficient rate, causing the gear to just spin freely, not connected to the flywheel. Have you ever had this problem EsotericImage?
I just don't want to go through the trouble of trying to use it, then have problems with it later, and be out of my only daily driver. Ya dig?
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/AluminumFWLogo_4-13F.pdf
But it doesn't have a sequence of how to take off the bolts. I was just going to take off one bolt, at 12 o clock, then the corresponding bolt at 6 o clock. Is this the correct way(like taking apart a head), or do they have a sequence to follow? I've also seen youtube videos of the ring gear expanding and cooling at an inefficient rate, causing the gear to just spin freely, not connected to the flywheel. Have you ever had this problem EsotericImage?
Extreme heat can adversely affect the dowels and ring gear. For performance use vehicles special dowels are available. Extreme heat
can, as with any flywheel, affect the ring gear causing the ring gear to grow and not return to it’s static diameter
can, as with any flywheel, affect the ring gear causing the ring gear to grow and not return to it’s static diameter
UPDATE:
So my radiator started to leak, along with my hose. Decided to replace everything. I also changed my oil pan gasket, as it was starting to drip.
OUT WITH THE OLD!

All beat up, haha.

Cleaned it up with degreaser, inside and out!


IN WITH THE NEW! (technically, used)



Oh god, I'm starting to collect parts...JDM ITR sway bar and a valve cover I'm starting to strip down.


Oh, I forgot to add that I installed Integra brakes all around when I first got the car.


So my radiator started to leak, along with my hose. Decided to replace everything. I also changed my oil pan gasket, as it was starting to drip.

OUT WITH THE OLD!

All beat up, haha.

Cleaned it up with degreaser, inside and out!


IN WITH THE NEW! (technically, used)




Oh god, I'm starting to collect parts...JDM ITR sway bar and a valve cover I'm starting to strip down.


Oh, I forgot to add that I installed Integra brakes all around when I first got the car.


Found some on Summit for the same price. I'm going to go ahead and order one in a paycheck or two. As for machining, is it machined with the contact patch on or when it is off? I also found this:
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/AluminumFWLogo_4-13F.pdf
But it doesn't have a sequence of how to take off the bolts. I was just going to take off one bolt, at 12 o clock, then the corresponding bolt at 6 o clock. Is this the correct way(like taking apart a head), or do they have a sequence to follow? I've also seen youtube videos of the ring gear expanding and cooling at an inefficient rate, causing the gear to just spin freely, not connected to the flywheel. Have you ever had this problem EsotericImage?
I just don't want to go through the trouble of trying to use it, then have problems with it later, and be out of my only daily driver. Ya dig?
http://www.fidanza.com/Files/AluminumFWLogo_4-13F.pdf
But it doesn't have a sequence of how to take off the bolts. I was just going to take off one bolt, at 12 o clock, then the corresponding bolt at 6 o clock. Is this the correct way(like taking apart a head), or do they have a sequence to follow? I've also seen youtube videos of the ring gear expanding and cooling at an inefficient rate, causing the gear to just spin freely, not connected to the flywheel. Have you ever had this problem EsotericImage?
I just don't want to go through the trouble of trying to use it, then have problems with it later, and be out of my only daily driver. Ya dig?
So I did a few small things tonight, like mounting the tow hook and installing hood spacers 

I thought about installing the tow hook here, but I decided to put it somewhere else...All I did was run a 3/4 bolt and nut combo through one of the existing holes on the crash support. It fits pretty well, although IMO it would look better if I had a complete front bumper.


With bumper on...

Oh hai there!

This gave me the chance to try out my new bolt extraction kit from Napa

Goodbye unpleasant, cross-threaded bolt!

Aaaaaand, installed!


I feel as if one side is higher than the other...Oh well. Gonna install those bad*** top hats tomorrow, along with the shifter, and maybe some other stuff. Since I have another piece of my front suspension, I'll be ordering the front Energy bushings along with the rear trailing arm bushings this week. Another weekend's worth of work! Sorry for the horrible pictures, I have no camera atm, and only my shitty camera phone.


I thought about installing the tow hook here, but I decided to put it somewhere else...All I did was run a 3/4 bolt and nut combo through one of the existing holes on the crash support. It fits pretty well, although IMO it would look better if I had a complete front bumper.



With bumper on...

Oh hai there!

This gave me the chance to try out my new bolt extraction kit from Napa


Goodbye unpleasant, cross-threaded bolt!

Aaaaaand, installed!



I feel as if one side is higher than the other...Oh well. Gonna install those bad*** top hats tomorrow, along with the shifter, and maybe some other stuff. Since I have another piece of my front suspension, I'll be ordering the front Energy bushings along with the rear trailing arm bushings this week. Another weekend's worth of work! Sorry for the horrible pictures, I have no camera atm, and only my shitty camera phone.
Sorry for no updates lately. Been busy with a new job and haven't really had any extra money or time to mess around with the car. My clutch started slipping really bad, so I decided to replace with a bit milder version of the clutch that I was running, a street/strip duty competition clutch. I opted for 6 puck clutch, only because in my mind instead of having 4 contact patches, I would have 6, spreading the load out more equally over the pressure plate and flywheel. I hope that makes sense. Picture time!
This is what came out. As you can see, the stage 5 4-puck dug a lip out of both the stock flywheel, and the pressure plate that came with it. There were also heat spots on the flywheel, but I don't know if you can see them. This clutch material was almost down to the rivets!

Picture of the Pressure Plate:

Picture of the flywheel:

Now...the moment everyone's been waiting for...The new parts:
I decided to go with a 9lb. flywheel that a buddy of mine had, not wanting to throw the motor into any sort of imbalance by going with too light of a flywheel. I believe I got a comp clutch flywheel, but you can never tell. 4lbs. less rotating mass makes a HUGE difference on your motor. The flywheel was hit with 380 grit sandpaper to clean the contact surface and to give it a non-directional finish, just like a brake rotor.
The new flywheel:

The new clutch kit:

Also installed solid motor mounts (ebay) and the energy rear mount inserts. The motor won't move now(at least not a whole lot). I'm currently building traction bars for this little civ, and I've also picked up some dual valve springs from a stock b16a2(intake side) that I'm going to be replacing the single valve springs on the exhaust side of the GSR with. I've already tested the spring rates and researched, and they have almost the exact same spring pressure as the intake on GSRs. ARP head studs have also been picked up, for when I can source a B16 head. Still looking for the ITR clips that hold the sway bar to the subframe; LS seem to not fit. More pictures to come.
This is what came out. As you can see, the stage 5 4-puck dug a lip out of both the stock flywheel, and the pressure plate that came with it. There were also heat spots on the flywheel, but I don't know if you can see them. This clutch material was almost down to the rivets!

Picture of the Pressure Plate:

Picture of the flywheel:

Now...the moment everyone's been waiting for...The new parts:
I decided to go with a 9lb. flywheel that a buddy of mine had, not wanting to throw the motor into any sort of imbalance by going with too light of a flywheel. I believe I got a comp clutch flywheel, but you can never tell. 4lbs. less rotating mass makes a HUGE difference on your motor. The flywheel was hit with 380 grit sandpaper to clean the contact surface and to give it a non-directional finish, just like a brake rotor.
The new flywheel:

The new clutch kit:

Also installed solid motor mounts (ebay) and the energy rear mount inserts. The motor won't move now(at least not a whole lot). I'm currently building traction bars for this little civ, and I've also picked up some dual valve springs from a stock b16a2(intake side) that I'm going to be replacing the single valve springs on the exhaust side of the GSR with. I've already tested the spring rates and researched, and they have almost the exact same spring pressure as the intake on GSRs. ARP head studs have also been picked up, for when I can source a B16 head. Still looking for the ITR clips that hold the sway bar to the subframe; LS seem to not fit. More pictures to come.
Picked up this bad boy and installed. Tein bar.

Was thinking about putting bullet casings on the end of thesebolts, but may end up just chopping hem flush.

Heres some pictures of those ebay mounts. NOTE: In order to get the transmission mount to fit properly, you either have to cut a weld the one side by dropping it 1/4-1/2 inch or use spacers and extended studs to reach the new height of the mount. I cut and re-welded and threw some paint on there.


How the engine bay sit right now.

Also, I picked up a fully built b16a2. Not gong to use the bottom end, so I'm going to be posting itup for sale soon. Eagle rods and CP pistons. I'll be using the head for a poor man's type r/high compression build.


Gonna chop and re-weld these bad boys to exit out the hood or bumper. Can't decide. HUGE dents on the bottom runners.

oh, and ARPs

Was thinking about putting bullet casings on the end of thesebolts, but may end up just chopping hem flush.

Heres some pictures of those ebay mounts. NOTE: In order to get the transmission mount to fit properly, you either have to cut a weld the one side by dropping it 1/4-1/2 inch or use spacers and extended studs to reach the new height of the mount. I cut and re-welded and threw some paint on there.


How the engine bay sit right now.

Also, I picked up a fully built b16a2. Not gong to use the bottom end, so I'm going to be posting itup for sale soon. Eagle rods and CP pistons. I'll be using the head for a poor man's type r/high compression build.


Gonna chop and re-weld these bad boys to exit out the hood or bumper. Can't decide. HUGE dents on the bottom runners.


oh, and ARPs

Sorry for no updates lately, I started at a new job recently and have been working 14 hours a day, so updates aren't really high on my priority list.
As for what's going on with my car, my oil pump blew up on the highway, so I saw it as a good opportunity to install the b16a2 head along with the arp's and a new oil pump and oil pan gasket. It's a whole other car now. I also picked up a carbon fiber hood to fix up, and repaired it quite nicely. There is some clear coat damage, but I think I'm just going to get it 3M wrapped in whatever color I choose to hide it. I also sanded down the black door that I had installed and found out that it was the same color as my car before they painted it. Now I'm just waiting to get the money to paint my door.
But I keep buying go-fast parts....

Here's the hood when I started:




You can see that in the corners, it started separating from the fiberglass. I just used some Gorrila glue epoxy to synch it all back together. C-Clamps are key.

Before I mounted it:

The Night I mounted it:

Day shot:



ITR cams, t4 turbo .70 a/r exhaust, rev-hard mani






I picked up the mani and turbo for about $150. My goal is 800$ using low mileage parts.
And no, I don't care what you have to say about my carbon fiber, because it still looks better than the rainbow hood.
As for what's going on with my car, my oil pump blew up on the highway, so I saw it as a good opportunity to install the b16a2 head along with the arp's and a new oil pump and oil pan gasket. It's a whole other car now. I also picked up a carbon fiber hood to fix up, and repaired it quite nicely. There is some clear coat damage, but I think I'm just going to get it 3M wrapped in whatever color I choose to hide it. I also sanded down the black door that I had installed and found out that it was the same color as my car before they painted it. Now I'm just waiting to get the money to paint my door.
But I keep buying go-fast parts....

Here's the hood when I started:




You can see that in the corners, it started separating from the fiberglass. I just used some Gorrila glue epoxy to synch it all back together. C-Clamps are key.

Before I mounted it:

The Night I mounted it:

Day shot:



ITR cams, t4 turbo .70 a/r exhaust, rev-hard mani






I picked up the mani and turbo for about $150. My goal is 800$ using low mileage parts.
And no, I don't care what you have to say about my carbon fiber, because it still looks better than the rainbow hood.
once upon a time, there was a fellow named alex nabinger. i had bought another bumper from the junkyard, and the same night mr. alex nabinger had drove my car on the horrible suspension and the bumper fell off at 120mph. it was a classy event and needless to say, i did put on another bumper before it went back to the "holy" bumper




