so my friend and i just swapped a gsr into an eg hatch and were having problems with it burning too much fuel even after adjusting the pressure with a fuel regulator. Also just got done wiring vtec with the rywire vtec subharness kit and vtec still not working. We do have code 21 which is spool valve/vtec solenoid but when checking the resistance on the solenoid its within spec. Also to mention i have a p72 ecu chipped and stock gsr manifold with the secondary butterflies removed and no iab, would this affect its driveability? The motor seems to run fine powerwise but the mpgs are horrible and cannot get vtec working. Any input would be helpfull, thank you in advance.

 

Try this.

 

The valve itself had 17 ohms. The wire has .2 ohms and there isnt anything in those screens. Pretty sure also that the .2 is because of my meter so the resistance in the wire going to the ecu is 0 witch is what you want.

 

You likely mixed up the Coolant temp sensor and VTEC plugs. Try swapping them.

FYI, if VTEC is set at the stock 4400RPM, you likely won't hear VTEC crossover when you do get it working.

Adjust the FPR back to factory (GSR) spec when you get it all working. Or use a stock GSR FPR.

The IAB delete will make the engine feel a bit weak down in the lower RPM range.

 

Uhm that doesn't make sense. I have a rywire vtec subharness. There is no mixing that up. You plug it to the solenoid and the oil switch and then straight to the ecu. I did that all the test check out and still a 21 code. Also my
Fuel pressure is at 42 witch is within stock gsr fuel pressure.

 

Try a stock ecu. Your "chipped" ecu likely has a generic junk base map on it.

 

I guess I'll try that. Should I go p28 or p72?

 

P28 is for a D16Z6, P72 is for a B18C1.

 

I cut the lead to stop reading the chip and went back to a stock ecu and it still threw the same code 21

 

Did you short test the wire?

 

Wire is good. Wired correctly. Solenoid works. So all that's left is the ecu right?

 

To answer this^, you'd need to describe the troubleshooting that led you to these conclusions:

 

I Already have. I tested the solenoid itself. Did the resistance test I got 17 ohms witch within spec. I ran power straight to the solenoid with a jumper wire, it
Clicked and was working. I test the resistance in the wire going to the ecu from the solenoid. Zero resistance
That's good. I tried a stock ecu with it and still got code 21

 

No short test?

 

is this a JDM solenoid?

 

This statement for me raises a flag. Zero resistance? You either measured it wrong or you're throwing happy thoughts out there.

Whatever wire you used of that length is going to have some resistance.

As Ron is hinting, you should also check for continuity to ground with the ecu A connector and the spool valve unplugged.

 

Ok .2 resistance but I don't know if that's my meter is a little off but whatever it's got .2 ohms in the wire. As for is it a jdm solenoid I have no clue.

 

Your gonna have to explain a short test and I'll do it in the morning.

 

Short test - touch one meter probe to the wire and the other probe to body ground with meter set to read continuity or resistance.