First off, I searched. All I've found is the issue I've already taken care of, which is where you have to cut the skunk2 manifold adapter for it to bolt to the head. But now, when I went to bolt the manifold to the adapter, the back/bottom of the manifold hits the rear motor mount, and won't bolt up! This is not an h2b set up (yet), and is in a 96 civic. Was wondering if anyone else experienced this. Never read anywhere that this setup is only for h2b. Oh and the mani is skunk also, for the civic Si. Thanks!

*Edit- Pics added on page 2!

 

Post pictures. Always post pictures.

 

Which manifold are you trying to fit? From which SI? Your post is confusing.
And according to what is quoted, barring any user error, your car may be one of the ones it does not fit.

What exactly is in the car now? H-series? More info. And Pics.

 

you've gotta say what k manifold you're trying to fit...

 

My post was clear as day, but I'll say it again. It's obviously an h series, and as I said, it's non-h2b in a 96 civic. Again, the manifold is skunk 2 for the civic Si. The only thing I forgot to mention is that the motor mount kit is Innovative mounts. No pics as I'm at work and won't be back for a couple of days, but I figured those who have had this problem wouldn't need any. It's such a popular swap into such a popular car, I couldn't believe the mani didn't fit, so I'm wondering if it's somehow user error. Although I would think it's a very straightforward affair

 

Oh and I believe skunk 2 makes only one manifold for the civic Si with the k series?

 

they actually make 2... but of course you knew that amirite? either way i'll assume you have the traditional "pro series" one.

 

If your post were clear and unambiguous, nobody would be asking follow up questions. Post clear pictures when you have time.

 

Yes it is the pro series

 

u will have to trim the manifold since its not an h2b & there is no lean.

 

Ah ok thanks wutthebun.... wonder if there's even enough material on the mani to do that, without cutting into the plenum. I'll be heading home in the morning, so pics will be up tomorrow

 

Here is a good link of someone using the K2H from the originator QSD on an F20b in a prelude. They are using an RBC manifold but should help.

4WS Ryan build

 

The straight-H swap uses the Prelude rear t-bracket, which bolts to the mount around an inch higher than a D or B-series t-bracket. The H t-bracket also arches upwards while the D/B t-bracket top is flat.

I've seen a K2H Prelude where they made a custom rear mount. They used a small-O.D. poly bushing w/steel sleeve welded to the t-bracket, then used angle iron bolted to the chassis to bolt through the poly bushing.

 

Thanks for that thread link Bently Coop, I actually subscribed lol. Judging from his pic, it looks like my motor's head might be angled a little farther back towards the firewall, if i remember right.
And that's some good info on the t-bracket, HiProfile, that would explain a lot. That's a lot of work just to use the K mani though!
*Edit- But it's on a Prelude so i could see why that might be worth it

 

also the skunk2 adapter is bit more thicker than the qsd plate, which causes the clearance issue.

 

You may want to look into the H22 Skunk2 manifold instead. A full h-swap usually places the motor farther forward of the H2B swap, and the Skunk2 generally fits well. It may not make as much power as the K20 intake and only a bit more than a euro-R & modded stock H22 intake, but it will fit and requires no extra work. Just bolt on your TB and H22 fuel rail & go.

Here's a pic I found, the H22 trans betrays itself with the forward-mounted starter:

 

Just a warning about trying to run the Skunk2 h22 manifold in an EK... I have one in my hatch and it is a full H22 swap and the manifold is a tight fit. An IACV will not fit on the manifold as it will interfere with the firewall and your brake lines MIGHT get in the way. My fuel lines are converted to -AN fittings and SS hoses so those aren't in the way either... it'll vary depending on your setup...

 

Thanks guys for the great information! Thanks for sharing your knowledge on this somewhat uncommon topic. As far as the h22 skunk2 manifold goes, I bought one years ago but never ran it, so that is my next choice
I know about the clearance with the iacv, but I wasn't planning on running it anyway, nor that valve under the TB who's name escapes me at the moment. I just barely had enough clearance for my TPS sensor when I fitted the h22 skunk2 mani, stock throttle body, and Hondata gasket, so I'm going to use a stock gasket for extra clearance. That is, if I'm absolutely not able to use the K manifold, which sounds like might be the case

 

Ok, so just got home from work, and it's starting to get dark here but figured I would try to take a pic, but didn't get any worth posting. If yall really want pics, I can bolt up the adapter tomorrow and show how the manifold sits for reference. I hope this thread will be useful to others wondering if the K2H is right for them. Lots of great fitment info here, thanks guys

 

Post whatever pictures you have. Unfortunately you have to learn the hard way regarding this. But it would be great for future use as possible reference.

 

Yeah that's what I'm sayin, it sucks I can't use the K mani until I go H2B, but at least other people with straight H swaps will know now. I'm glad I have that other skunk manifold on hand too so it's not too bad

 

I have discussed this issue many times with Skunk2 in the past... and after enlightening them to the potential interference with the rear mount/T-bracket on a "straight H" swap, they claimed to be looking into this, and within weeks, said that they were going to "redesign" the K2H adapter plate. I don't believe this has happened as of yet.

I suggested making the plate itself slightly thicker at the bottom compared to the top (pie shaped when looked at it from the edge)... which would tip the intake manifold up slightly to eliminate contact with the rear mount/T-bracket. My concern with this "fix" is that the required angle may create a poor pathway for air and fuel to transition between the intake manifold and cylinder head... thus potentially cancelling the gains produced by the "K" Intake manifold that you have chosen.

Since there seemed to be no real progress in creating a proper adapter plate... and I really didn't want to "re-invent the wheel", I then decided to take a Skunk2 Pro Series "H" intake manifold and cut it in half directly behind the injector bosses, remove 7/8" of the runner length and then weld it back together. After heavily layering the welded area to build it up enough to provide the necessary material to allow internal porting of the runners since they didn't line up, I now have a reasonably smooth transition from the plenum to the port. This allows me to use the Skunk2 intake manifold with Hasport mounts in an EG coupe without firewall contact. The engine is going back into the car in the next few days... I will let you know how it turns out.

 

Sounds like it would work good for fitment MOTORVATION, do let us know how it turns out.
Now, according to skunks website, they say that their H mani is actually wave tuned for the preludes stock RPM range- which would be what, 7500-8000rpm? So by shortening the runners, it would move it's effective powerband up....just thought I'd mention. Do you have a build thread? I love everything H series

 

It just dawned on me right now... QSD makes a K2H adapter plate and they are primarily used on H2B swapped vehicles... worth a look to see how they get around using this setup. I would imagine the difference in runner length and size of the RBC, RBB, and so forth manifolds will have to be considered when doing this type of swap.

http://www.quartersportsdrag.com/KIM.html

 

The QSD plate is virtually the same as the Skunk2 adapter, just a bit thinner. It's already been stated an H2B swap tilts forward vs a straight-H swap, allowing enough clearance under the K-series manifold. It's something like a 20-30 degree difference.