this is to ask questions and keep track of my new build


im currently gathering parts for my next build this time 1.999999 liter
sleeved gsr block 84.5mm
wiseco pistons 11.5 cr specs 30mm height with +2 dome
OEM oil pump with 84mm toda gear
itr crank in good shape
MANLEY h beam rods
ATI street damper
FIDANZA 8lb flywheel hp rating? rpm limit?
ACT level 80 W.O.W. special edition clutch that needs magical elf powers to press it (older stage 4 clutch from 2006)
gsr head stock ports
ID1000 injectors
skunk2 alpfa 70mm throttle body
4bar Omni map sensor
cometic headgasket .045mil
skunk2 pro2 cams
AEBS intake manifold
super sucky custom baller intake pipe made from acetone can(richtuned pointed finger at it lol so did everyone else)
toda replica header I got PLM and Chinese knockoff. got carried away (also have ebay 4-2-1 and try-why ebay rep)

just picked up ferrea /itr valves (thanks onyxeros)
carbon synchros
jdm gsr tranny with viscous lsd

vortech supercharger kit with power cooler

still need to install the MR2 electric power steering


plan is to get into 12s and maybe manage to pass emissions (tailpipe) I passed with the engine in the signature with no problem


I also like high revving engines so what type of work should be done to be able to rev limit at 9000 rpm( its for personal enjoyment not to go to carshows to brag about it)
that's why I picked ITR crank and itr rods



I have an idea about basic measuring of the clearaces and about to order the tools necessary to do it( micrometers,calipers,gauges etc)
the ones listed in diy blueprinting thread.
so I can minimize the machine shop cost and do only necessary machining there and assemble/check clearances myself this time, I watched him do it last time and read up on that for some time.


almost everything is ready for assembly

 

rs machines cast pistons or forged?

I decided to stay with 84.5 or 85mm GSR or ITR pistons to keep the compression same as stock itr 10.8 or a bit higher 11.4 with itr pistons.

for now I will be using a stock gsr head with itr valvetrain and itr cams and blowx itr style intake manifold
pretty much as close to a 2 liter itr as it gets

but revving to 9k im not sure if the bigger pistons will be too heavy in cast and I should get forged instead

 

looks like u are off to a good start you will love the tq and response of the 85mm compared to 81-82mm.

nothing wrong with keeping the compression between 11-11.5. weight could certainly be an issue of the pistons, see what you can get for lightest.
i hate to bring it up but, sleeved block and forged pistons = great setup for some spray...

 

LOL you read my mind.

I would shoot for compression in the 11.5-12:1 range. You will keep good clearances and be able to tune well on pump gas still.

The toda header is a good all around option, but I personally think there are better "bigger" options for 2L builds that are in the same price range. Skunk2 alpha, Hytech rep, High-end V2, SMSP B19 replica, just to name a few.

I don't see a reason to switch from the RDX injectors. Not worth the money IMO. I would rather get a better fuel pump and FPR and up the pressure and injector output. The RDX seem to like 60psi ALOT. Just food for thought.

 

I sold the rdx injectors already lol
and I got a killer deal on toda replica from spfab for 250
but I might get them again.

im trying to not make same mistakes on this one and make it perfect

like buying flow matched injectors
and getting all the clearances on point
Im just missing pistons right now.

what size tB should I go with? 68 or 70? im gonna get another one from phearable.net. used 3 of them already with no problems

oh and the stock/ish compression is for possible previa supercharger or maybe eaton supercharger if previa cant hang at higher rpm


not to jump ahead but has anyone ever designed an intake valve to switch between sc and regular intake pipe?
it might sound crazy but I want to have a solid all motor build and then add the previa supercharger as a bonus so I can push the button and engage the supercharger with the clutch that it comes with.
in perfect world it would automatically open an inlet at higher rpm where supercharger cant push volume anymore and disengage the clutch

 

I'd do 70 or 74mm TB

 

so I still have a question about cast vs forged pistons.

since im planning to use vortech type supercharger in about a year or so which makes most power at the top
Im would like for the redline to be around 9000 rpm


would rs machines cast pistons be ok for that or im gonna be pushing my luck with them?

I know its a supercharged part of my build but I just didn't want to make a duplicate thread in boosted section


I wanted to build it all motor with same compression as ITR then take it to track get times and add the supercharger and then do it again.

I think it would be a great informational comparison with dynos and track times. from same dyno and same track

 

The RS pistons should be fine. Hell people make over 400whp on cast pistons w/o issue.

 

I was worried about piston speed at that redline since the 84-85mm pistons will be a bit heavier than stock itr pistons. with stock itr rods and itr crank

but if its safe I would prefer cast since they are about half the price of forged ones I barely recovered from last engine fail...

 

Get the full rotating assembly balanced. crank, rods, pistons, pressure plate, flywheel and all the fasteners. You will be fine.

On a side note, look at the ycp pistons. cheaper than the RS pistons and actually have more consistent weights across the board (at least in my experience)

 

what about the metal quality? why are they so much cheaper than rs machines?

has anyone actually check what quality of aluminum each brand use?

can I email them for specific info like that or would they be shady and not disclose it to anyone?

im kinda suspicious about local shops that do balancing.
how do I know their stuff is calibrated at all?
I mean what are the chances that their balancing is more accurate than Honda?
from what I ve seen its pretty old stuff

 

I am using the YCP pistons for my build and they are great quality. RS you are paying for the name.

Take your stuff to a reputable machine shop and have it balanced. My stuff was done at DG machine and all the pistons/rods match. They will spin it with the crank, flywheel and pressure plate afterwards and fine tune from there. Honda did a good job, but when you start changing sizes and fasteners it needs to be redone.

 

what about Nippon racing.

 

Nippon makes good products as well. I used their 82mm PR3 pistons and rings in my last GSR build and had good luck.

 

i know of atleast 4motors running ycp pistons road racing
thats 10 hotlaps on raceday sunday and 5 qualifying laps during saturday
all b20 84x89 vtec motors (pulling to 9300rpm)

we're near the end of the season (2014) one failure motor.. rod snapped LOL

so i guess the piston would be fine

................................................
balancing them to within 0.1g would be nice though as some sets come really close to it
but other sets go as far as 2grams off...
................................................
getting your rotating assy balanced... good
but more importantly know the tolerances they take it to..
some call it balanced but within what tolerances? a good shop should and would give you a print out of a bfor and after.... if they dont ? walk away

sidenote :
some pistons come this way some would say its balanced... yes sure balanced to within 5 grams? lol

HTH and glad ur going at it for v2

 

All of my rods were 382g on the nose. All of my pistons were balanced to within .02g (I can't remember the weight). crank, flywheel pressure plate came out needing no work. For $135 its worth it IMO

 

man... thats a good price...

thats my fear though.. ive never seen a crank/flywheel and press plate not needing anywork when you go for higher tolerances or tighter tolerance on the ounce per inch basis of a rotating assembly...

going down on the tolerances it then becomes "not needing work"

in laymans , 1 ounce out 1inch away from centerline is less imbalanced than
1 ounce out 6inches away from centerline

IMO but most hondas get away with this... not a problem
i myself have run alot of builds with a lower tolerance in balancing.. to no adverse effects

 

yea im definitely balancing everything this time
I can do the weights myself just gonna do the rotating balance for the crank flywheel etc at the machine shop.

I plan to run full synthetic 0w30 oil in it like last time I had great results with it.

should my bearing clearances be tighter or in the middle like normal gsr?

im gonna be using oem bearings myhondahabbit.com oil pan gasket and ishino(stone headgasket etc. had no problems with them last time



on that note where do I find a cheap scale that can do .000grams I have harbor freight scale that can do .00g I want to be extreme OCD with this lol.


I also have some measuring tools that I just bought brand new
digital caliper up to 2 inch to measure the crank journals
digital dial bore gauge for rods and cylinder walls
depth gauge also digital
the digital scale to .00g
and still need to buy a digital torque wrench


im curious if there are any computer based systems for balancing crank pulleys and other small rotating stuff that I can do at home?

I like digital and computer based tools that are compact just like to accessorize

 

You can get a pretty inexpensive scale that measures down to .00 grams at headshops/ smoke shops. Once you find the model you want, check Amazon for better prices. That's what I did.

 

I have one that measures .00 i want one that measures .000 because im ocd and im stuck on getting one now

 

should be OCD with the VJ and cams instead

 

I'll have to double check the pressure plate. I could be wrong about it needing work with the flywheel. I have the print out and everything matches up perfect. Dale Green does hands down some of the best work in WA.

 

LOL THIS is my problem. I finally have a VJ lined up, but cams...oh man.

 

makes sense,

Valve motion and flow profile go hand in hand to make power

 

that too
just didn't mention it. vj cost money
and im gonna use itr cams for now until I find a deal on some cams I like or save enough to get rocket/ddtech cams not sure which one yet