After the huge pain it was to rip the old one out and get the larger RS MC and booster in my hatch, I found out that it did NOT connect properly to the civic brake lines.

The bung furthest from the firewall accepted the civic line no problem. The other, however, was too large to allow the civic line to screw into it.

I was under the impression this was a simple 100% compatable swap, but I guess I either got the wrong part, or the wrong information.

Thanks for any help,

-Nick-

 

it should've fit and you need to modify the brake lines.

 

Do i just use an integra brake line for that second line that didnt fit? Thanks,

-Nick-

 

One of the lines need to be slightly modded, but if it's a wrong part as you've IM-ed. Please let me know asap.

-Sean

 

for Sean for the help he's giving me with this situation.

-Nick-

 

Go to SEARS and get yourself a "Tube Bender" (Plumbing Kit) make sure it is a 1/4" size, to modify some lines if needed. Do not try to bend by hand or with other object as a replacement ..... or will cost you some work.

 

Yep. That is true for all the older teg master cylinders and the ones from the 4 door civic EX & LX. Heres what you can do to fix it. Find the correct size fitting at a junk yard, cut it off. carefully cut the flare off the end of your brake line, slip the new fitting on and re flare it. You can get a tubing flare kit at any hardware store for like $10.

Brake lines are a bitch but the upgrade is worth it.

 

do reflared brake lines seal well though?

 

Nick - I trust Brian with his products and I have no doubt in my mind that what you have is RS M/C and booster. One of the line needs some elbow grease to fit as stated above. I'm contacting Tom right now, I remember it not being straight bolt in. Also, please check the stamping on the unit. Thanks.

-Sean

 

I talked to Tom just now. (Thanks, Tom for a quick answer.) If indeed you can not fit the line near the firewall you can either:

1. reflare the lines (as mentioned in above posts). It works without sealing problem (Tom verified this as a tech at his shop has done this before).

2. send the M/C to me and I can reflare it for you (at Tom's shop) and send it back

3. send the whole thing (M/C & booster) and I can give you your money back for what you bought it for.

FYI - Just so you know, <u>new</u> RS M/C = ~$160 + $booster. And, I do not have any RS M/C & booster... and you'll have to go through Brian (if he's willing to help out).

Let me know.

Sincerely,
Sean

 

Just to clarify things for reference, should the RS MC bolt-in directly? Or does it depend on the year? I'd just like to konw cause I plan on doing this as well when I install my rear discs and I want to know what part is gonna fit perfectly. Thanks

 

I haven't had any problems yet but you do need to be carefull flaring them. The steel lines are not as maleable as copper or aluminum and they like to split rather than flare. If I had to do it again I would heat the end with a torch to aneal (soften) the metal before flaring it.

Mike

 

.... Good question though. I thought same year w/same year was swapable no matter what model on any GSR/LS/GS/RS.

BTW, Nick I've got a M/C Nick in my garage from a '94 GSR if you need one really BAD.

LTR

 

GSR M/C will have the same issue w/ flaring due to ABS line. RS in theory should bolt up directly.

 

I missed that piece of info somewhere ..... ... My bad

 

Here are the pics of the MC i received. Notice the bung closest to the booster is slightly larger than the other.





Also, no 15/16ths mark anywhere, only a "1"

-Nick-

 

Here are my '94 GSR w/ABS M/C pics, why are they so different ???










.... Damn them !!!!


[Modified by Honda4CX-R, 11:21 PM 11/1/2002]