Ok I know there's already a diy but it has small pics and didn't cover how I did it aka for the guys who want to keep the OEM housing but don't want to shell out $300 to Honda for a new ICM. All the same here's my go at it, my reason for replacing the igniter was the notorious "jumping tach needle". There is a difference between the OEM Honda distributors and the generic part store/ebay ones main one being you can't use an OEM cap on a OE distributor and vice-versa, and you'll see the rest in this DIY. By B_Swapped93

ok first things first remove the distributor from the car 3 12mm bolts next remove the cap 3 8mm bolts/screws, I recommend using a socket vs the star head as these strip easily. Once off there may/may not be a dust over the guts of the distributor, it should just wiggle off you'll want to remove the rotor also which should be a slot screwdriver. you'll be left looking at this


Next you'll want to slide off these 4 plugs



so far it's the same deal regardless if you have an OEM/NO OEM distributor, the next part is not. i'll assume more ppl have OEM distributors so what you'll want to do is undo those 2 6mm bolts, you may be able to use the star head but if they're old they strip in no time/effort. So what I did was take a dermal but an angle grinder will work if you have a steady hand, and make slots in the middle for a slot screw driver. Once I had that done they were free in no time, it should be out now.



Now for the non-oem dizzy guys it's alot easier...you'll see your distributor housing has no nuts on the outside, so simply undo the screws at the top of the ICM/heat-sink


These 2 I already had the icm out but the heatsink/icm has a "lip" that goes over the edge thus how it's mounted up top.


Here's the difference and the lip I was talking about, in my case I had a oem and non oem dizzy for parts. Now take the old heat-sink mount off and then simply bolt it to your new part store ICM, in the case you can shell out $300 for a OEM Honda ICM just bolt it in. But if you'd like to use your OEM housing with swapped guts pls keep reading



and this is what it will look like note the not-oem compatible heat-sink in the background, I have no experience with a new from part-store ICM but I'd imagine it would come with the not-oem compatible styled heat-sink. I will say if it comes with some grey goo use that! it holds them together so you don't burn it out in no time, but the remainder from your OEM one may be just enough



Now it's ready to be bolted back in... reverse process here, just line it up with the screws on the side and tightens them and plug the 4 wires back in. From guts spilled everywhere to looking like new again, I haven't tested mine yet but good luck hope this helps a few ppl


All done!
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Nice write up! This will help when i do mine cause i'm getting that "jumping tach needle." Thanks!

 

I know this is really old, but i was wondering what if you car was running weird when you had that old icm in? or was it running at all?

I'm having issues passing smog with just 59 ppm over for hydrocarbons. And i know high hc's is basically unburned fuel which can be caused by weak spark. So just wondering if you know anymore about the icm?

 

I had a bad ICM a while back...the first signs of problems were it would crank for a while before starting, and while cruising the tachometer would twitch all over the place. It got worse and worse until eventually it just wouldn't start at all.

You sure your plugs and wires are good?

 

tach went crazy I never let it get to the point of starting or bucking issues BUT that has been reported as problems of bad ones gone further then they should.

 

Wait...So you didn't test if your distributor worked after your ICM retrofit hack?

Are you just showing how you installed an aftermarket ICM into an OEM distributor case and saying the distributor might not work once its reassembled?

 

if you say my old build thread you'd know my car was out of commission for a month due to a gas tank replacement, it did work used it till I sold the car even which was a month later i'm sure it would have continued working,,,

 

I'm just going by this thread specifically...thats why I ask.