I have a 1995 Honda civic dx with a b16a from h motors 45k on motor n trans, fresh no smoke nor does it burn oil.. Anyways I had ordered a dna motoring kit.. a 3 bar map sensor, Rc 440cc injectors, walbro 255lph fuel pump, crome pro programed ecu, aem fuel pressure regulator, the dump tube and all of the gaskets, 8lb flywheel, Act Stage 1 Clutch, Skunk 2 68mm throttle body, Does anyone have any information on how the dna motoring kit is? its the t3/t4 t04e kit.. Also Is 10 lbs of boost a safe number to run with a motor with stock internals?

 

ugh...

ebay kits are ****, every part is ****

that ecu is just a basemap, not a "tune" so you'd still need to have the car professionally tuned, if the turbo kit even lasts that long

 

Holy crap, you're painfully misinformed, and throwing money at the car in all the wrong places. You don't need a 3 BAR MAP. You don't need a FPR. You don't WANT a lightweight flywheel. Do you really want us to continue?

Go read the FAQs sticky before you spend another penny.

 

DNA Motoring is a high volume "sell anything/everything" eBay vendor. They are a middleman. They don't do anything but order the kit and maybe they're dropshipped to you. Maybe they have on the shelf-stock and get the "kits" rebranded before selling. Half of the stuff in those "kits" are useless and the other half is substandard. They have little to no expertise in anything they sell. You jumped the gun before becoming truly informed just like they wanted you to do. It's called marketing. Good luck with your purchase.

 

ebay turbos no good that happened to me.. ordered another and was smoking super bad the first day put on... dont waste money on them lol

 

I've seen guys run an ebay setup but have change the turbo waste gate and bov and intercooler and run good numbers. and when you do a turbo setup you want to keep the stock flywheel and upgrade your clutch to a stage 3 or higher depending on power. lightweight flywheels drop in rpm to fast for turbo cars so big no on that

 

Lmao no light weight flywheel on a turbo car is the biggest crock of **** on the internet.

Light flywheels make more power, they redice inertia and as a result require more rpm to launch (can be good for controllong wheelspin on high powered cars too)

They are NOT bad for boosted cars. Quicker rev drops means reduced shift time. Reduced shift times = faster transition back into boost!

 

^^Agreed. I have not experienced any noticeable negative side effects from my lightweight flywheel.

 

they have horrible customer service.

anyways, if its your first time being boosted id piece it together separately or get ready to fork over a decent amount of money for high quality parts from greg at go-autoworks.

if you piece it out, just make sure to get a quality turbo,wastegate & bov. ive never had problems with ebay intercooler piping and mishimoto intercooler's.

 

Also an act stage 1 clutch won't hold up to the torque increase. that clutch is really meant for stock motors that are naturally aspirated with the typical Honda bolt ons and for a slight durability increase under more aggressive driving conditions.

the first time you put the car on a dyno and do a pull that clutch will slip immediately.

 

On a purely track-oriented car, sure. On a daily driven car, a lightweight flywheel is too much daily hassle for not enough gain. It's not even a question of rev drop, or intera. Truly light flywheels are a pain in the *** to drive with.

 

If you aren't used to one, a lightweight flywheel takes some getting used to, especially when you let the clutch out from a stop. it takes more throttle to keep the engine from stalling. also they suck in traffic because you can't feather the clutch out without any throttle like the OEM flywheel.

other than that I love them, to me the engagement is no worse then how an aggressive clutch behaves. a lightweight flywheel and aggressive clutch won't take much more input than is already required to get the car rolling under it's own power.

as far as eBay Chinese parts...

 

Sorry but I have a 7.5lb flywheel and an oe clutch and it drives just like stock. It revs quicker but stop and go, etc is no different than stock. Maybe I adapt to changes instantly, or the only time a light flywheel becomes a pain is with a stage3+ clutch.

Oh and shifts are crisper and faster.

 

With a clutch like a competition stage 5 or any ubsprung hub it can be brutal. with multi plate clutches it's even worse.

your typical 7.25" twin/triple plate and lightweight flywheel require a lot of clutch and throttle modulation to get moving. you have to slip the clutch a whole lot more than a typical single disc.

when we first put the twin plate and lightweight flywheel in the z06 it was a total bitch on engagement. we easily have to start at 1500rpm or more and feather the clutch out, the big cam makes it even worse due to the low intake vacuum and the overall cam profile.

the same thing applies to other motors that have aggressive cams as well. it's a whole different beast from a stock cam, single disc, heavy flywheel motor

 

Like I said, the flywheel alone isnt a pain, its a combination of the light disc with a high stage, aggressive clutch that really does it

 

I thought we were talking about "eBay" turbo kits?

 

short attention spans and/or add lol

 

+1 for and/or

 

How much more is there to talk about them? It's mostly been addressed. OP should read the FAQ and search. This topic has been beaten to death.

Honestly I'm more interested in the flywheel discussion even though it's off topic. I'll be running the Comp 12lb Chromoly Flywheel and curious about the opinions posted.

 

It would be cool if a mod could split the thread where the tech starts and close the eBay turbo kit thread down. But since it was pretty much dead until just now....

 

Yeah, I just noticed the date. I must have left a browser tab open for a week cause it looked like first page when I responded.

Apologizes for bringing it back from the grave. I might start a new thread on the flywheel topic. Would be interested in opinions.

 

The problem with the chinese/ebay stuff is the quality control. It simply doesn't exist.

You can get the chinese to QC their own stuff but its going to be more $$$ and almost back up to what the "name brands" sell for.

If you are going to roll the dice on that just be ready with a backup turbo or two from ebay. Or use an older junkyard Holset or AiResearch and know they will last forever.

 

Lightweight flywheels aren't really a big deal. I was on the fence because I was hearing that they sucked for daily driving, made it hard to take off, etc. I'm glad I went with one. Naysayers just can't drive or they have no torque. I have no issues daily driving my turbo F22 with an 11.5lb flywheel(stock weight is 23lbs) and stage 4 clutch. I also have my balance shafts deleted which is an additional reduction of rotating mass. Not sure on the weight of them but it's a reduction of about 13-17lbs. Motor revs to the moon in an instant. Makes driving a lot more fun and rev matching is quicker. It's a worthwhile mod as long as you're not a crybaby. I feel like the odd man out with my redheaded step-child motor but that's my $.02

 

I pretty much got the impression that the lighter the flywheel, the more finesse and skill it takes to drive with one. Is that an over-simplification?

 

Not really. I mean that's true but you'll only really notice at first. Anyone with some kind of muscle memory and driving skill will adapt to it within a few days. I personally love how spirited it makes the engine feel. There is a little bit of inherent danger with misshifting though. It's easier to catch with an OEM flywheel because it revs much slower. Misshift with a lightweight flywheel and you better be on your toes to catch it or something is getting destroyed. And by misshift I mean going from the top of 3rd to 2nd or something of that nature.