Should I use thicker oil to combat worn piston rings.
I know that I should just go ahead and replace my rings, but im not looking into a rebuild at the moment. I am running 5w-40 as of know and burning some oil. How much thicker can I go with these engines, considering its summer. I have a quart of lucas oil stabilizer that I am hesitant to use because of the reviews you all guys gave me. Another question, if I where to replace rings, would I have to replace the bearing, or can I just skip that step, if they look fine?
Don't run thicker oil than the engine is made for. They say 5w-30, than run that are 10w-30. One way or another, you're going to have to put new rings in. All you really need for that is the rings, new head gasket, oil pan gasket and its recommended to change the water pump and timing belt while your at it ( if it hasn't been changed in awhile).
Of course, you will have to have the block honed to properly seat in the new rings
Of course, you will have to have the block honed to properly seat in the new rings
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
What kind of engine is this? If it's non VTEC, you can buy a replacement longblock for like $500.
5W40 is thick already. ...but if the engine is fairly ruined, use all the additives and junk you want. The problem with 50 grade oils is that its hard to find a 5W or 10W version. Usually you see 20W50 bearing ruiner oil. 50 grade is crazy thick at operating temp too though.
5W40 is thick already. ...but if the engine is fairly ruined, use all the additives and junk you want. The problem with 50 grade oils is that its hard to find a 5W or 10W version. Usually you see 20W50 bearing ruiner oil. 50 grade is crazy thick at operating temp too though.
Just use factory recommended, any thicker and it could result in the oil not flowing through all the passages properly and taking out more than just rings.
just leave it and run the recommended 5w-30 as said long-blocks can go from 400-500$ simple "drop in". may as well grab a 2.0L if you're swapping blocks
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