Hey,

I have an engine mount (the rear one underneath the intake manifold, closest to cabin) that has two screws that are totally stripped off the block. The threads into the block are the parts stripped.

I was asking to see what my options are on getting a functioning fix? I don't care about the block at all, or any of that stuff so I'm find to have an irreversible solution.

Also, I noticed there was already a helix-coil on there (I think that's what it was), it was a stringy thin, wound piece of metal. I didn't realize that as I was changing out the mount, I was pulling the thread with it. The second one was already toast though.

Also, in this video, is this mount into the timing belt side of the engine supposed to be this loose? I didn't want to bother installing the side because of this and thought the $50 was more effective then wasting a good engine mount.

 

Anyone?

 

You can have the hole welded and a new hole drilled with threads.
You can try another heli-coil or timesert.
You can get a new block.

 

Take the engine out, send it to the machinist to fix.

One time I had to welded an aluminum stud to the block for an exhaust stud. I doubt that is an option since it is a motor mount. I am assuming there are 3 bolts (not sure if that are just b-series), but 1 stock, 1 retapped and 1 aluminum stud might be fine you you can't retap both of them.

 

Going on 7 days straight underneath the hood. That bracket in the video had broken off the block, so I had to take the crankshaft rotor off and get to the timing belt to replace it. Luckily there were enough life left in the screws to remove them out of the block and throw some new ones in.

Anyways, thanks for the advice,

I decided to go with a new Heli-coil. There was one thread that hadn't been tapped (I accidentally removed the first two Heli-Coil's on accident, not sure what they were). After much anticipation my parts and tools finally came in!
I didn't have the room to run a tap, so I bought this handy tap adapter, or tadapter as I have now coined it, and went to work this evening.



I was amazed at how it shredded through the aluminium! It literally took no time at all to tap and insert three coils, I was pretty happy with it. Almost worth the one time use $70 (unless anyone ever needs an M10 x 1.75 HeliCoil, let me know, we can work something out!).

But this being the fourth and final mount I'd replace, all the other mounts had settled in and making this last mount a pain. The screw is just barley lining up with the end of the bracket thread, and since I thread-locked it there's no adjusting that rear bracket. I decided that the best option is to get a new bolt, as the one I've been trying to cram into all night has lost its threads.

 

You could drill out the hole to make it more like an oval/slot shape. Assuming it really is that close.

 

if i was in your boots. i would pull the whole engine w/o tranny. drill and tap one size bigger bolt and do the same for the mount. assuming u have a drill press or able to get your hands on one to use. the block would be easy. i beleuve the bolts there are 12/14mm so the actuel whole size is probably 10.mm just drill and tap for the next size they only enter the block about 1.25" would be the easiest DIY and effect way. the other is what they mentioned take the engine in to a machine shop. they will fill the whole with alum weld and redrill/tap it only fiz's besides block replace. the machine shop would be between 75-150. really depends on the shop

 

Thanks for the input! I was able to tap it out myself! Luckily the tools only cost me $70. I'm a college kid working on a college budget -- in a gravel driveway. The bracket failed so bad the timing belt and the alternator belt collided so it was immovable. The labor I've done on this car in the past week would have easily set me over $900. So far I've only spent $350 and acquired some tools, a catalytic converter (sold my old one for $45), a down pipe, a new distributor cap with brass rotor and gasket, some shift linkage clips to tighten it up, and some bolts to fix my glove box so the opening mechanism won't fall off anymore).

This morning I biked over to Lowes and bought a crowbar, and was able to wedge the hole in there, however the threads on the through-bolt were stripped so I had to buy a shorter one. I'm not happy about it, but all the other mounts are solid enough with the polyurethane that it wasn't that big of a deal.

I took it out to get it inspected, and in NC they're pretty rigorous. I failed because I didn't have a muffler unfortunately (this wasn't my first time, sometimes you have to celebrate the joys of owning a 23 year-old car).

The only thing I'm doing now is trying to get the engine to stop running so lean/fumey. The inside usually smells, and so far I've replaced the cat and exhaust, distributor cap and essentials, and spark plugs. I think I need to do an O2 Sensor and the muffler should help with back pressure I was told. I also want to do the timing.

Since I don't have a timing light and will probably never need one again, I plan on having a shop do it, does anyone have any quotes on what that'd cost me to have the timing professionally adjusted?