I am looking at the brembo drilled rotors front and back with the matching pads. i just starting reasearching rotors and pads. so if you could post some helpful links or your opions that would be great.

i want drilled at least to dissapeat the heat. caus i am sick entired of fading breaks after a couple of sprited runs on the weekends.

 

fading brakes arent the fault of the rotor.

stock type replacements are best.

 

How much for the matching drilled pads?

 

Maybe you need to bleed the brakes and get new pads first.

 

Cross drilled rotors are prone to cracking, warping and cause premature pad wear. The drilling process "work hardens" the material of the rotor right around the drill holes and basically weakens the metal.

Slotted rotors perform the same function as cross-drilled rotors - but you don't really need those either because of enhancements in brake pad compounds.

If you want better braking - start with OEM Brembo blanks. Change your brake fluid to a high-temp/severe use variety like Motul 600. And change pads - OEM pads suck for anything but daily driving.

Warped rotors can also be caused by driving through puddles and washing your car while the brakes are still hot.

 

no they are warped i am sure of it. anyways i just read a post about the nsx calipers? and more info on that? is that just a direct replacement on the itr? if cross drilled is bad then why do most proches and lotous and ferraries have them? also most of the AMG's have them to.

but i need to read about pads next as long as they dont squeel or make screaching noises when braking.

 

Use Hawk HP+ for extreme street and light track or HPS to upgrade from oe.

Right on about the slot vs x-drill.

For the rotors, I just bedded in some Brembos and they warped at the Glen in TT's.
Got to try another set before opting for OE discs.

 

I've seen plenty of porsche rotors cracked.

 

Crossdrilled rotors belong in a Pizza shop. Brembo Blanks, Axxis Ultimates and the all importent steel lines with something good like Ford superduty brake fluid or something by ATE for spirted street use and light track duty.

 

axxis hummm i cant fidn there website. anymore info about them?

 

Andy where you at? http://www.cobaltfriction.com

 

i read the info on cobalt but thats not enough. hummm ok so what about the nsx caliper swap? i read the post on here about the guy with the 5 lug conversion doing it. is there any more info on that? i have searched 4 ites and have found no info.

and are the Axxis Ultimates screachey or are they quiet like the stock ones. i cant stand when breaks squell.

 

and for cooling of the brakes. this might sound stupid but hear me out. what if you took some slicone flex tubeing and ran it from the front bumber at each of the edges and then ran it to the lower control arms and to the center of the rotors on each side. would that not help to cool down the rotors? if this sounds stupid sorry but it kind of makes since.


[Modified by Vampyre, 11:34 PM 10/30/2002]

 

No they don't squeel....***** Just do the legend caliper swap. Same thing as NSX. Sreight forward swap.

 

Most of the time, warped rotors are the result of not torqueing the lugs correctly. Do you own a torque wrench? What do you torque your lugs to now?

Another possibility is that the hand brake is applied, or you come to a stop and leave your foot on the brake, while the rotors are still hot. This will result in uneven cooling, and possible warping.

Drilled rotors have less mass than regular ones, and therefore cannot store as much heat in them. This will result in your brakes overheating even faster with drilled rotors. The real way to reduce fade is to increase the mass (and normally the size) of the rotors.

 

technically no

 

Ok so it doesn't have the cooling fins or the cool little embossed "NSX" logo. Anything else I'm missing?

 

my rotors are probley warped from every single caus you guys posted. i really dont know what cause them to do this. but ohh well its a reason to get better brakes.

what about the hawk hps compared to Axxis Ultimates? and do you have any more info about the nsx calipers then do the legend swap? and are the nsx calipers better then the type r's and will tehy actually help stoping power?
thanks




[Modified by Vampyre, 11:47 PM 10/30/2002]

 

The drilled holes allow gasses built up between the rotor and the pad to escape. It has nothing to do with cooling or heat transfer. I do not think your ITR will ever see that extreme level of use.
I will recommend a good brand of carbon metalic pads and be sure to put on high performance shoes on your hoof. It the surest way to imporove performance.

 

The Legend/NSX caliper is two-piston instead of the Type R's one piston. This provides better pad wear and perhaps longer pad life. The main advantage to the NSX brake setup is that it uses a thicker rotor (28mm vs 22 mm) which will be a larger heat sink (more fade resistant) and less likely to warp.

If you don't take your R to the track and subject your brakes to abuse - the NSX/Legend brake mod is not worth the money imo. Stick with stock otherwise.

 

i track my car at least once a month. and its usaully for a entire day. and every weekend i like to have sprited drives. so the legend and nsx calipers and rotors are the same thing? and the size of the itr rotors are the same size as the nsx and legend rotors but the nsx and legend rotors and thicker by 7mm? is that correct?

What all is needed to do the nsx caliper swap? do you just bolt thoes suckers on and thats it? do you need different brackets? do you need to machine anything? and what year calipers are best for the nsx ones? and are the pistons the same size as the type R's. i ask that caus i am wondering if you will need to get a different master brake cylinder so the pistons get more fluid. or is my stock one ok to use?

so ths is what i am think about doing so far. Brembo blank oe rotors, stainless steel brake lines (goodright, earls) axxis or hawk hps pads, nsx calipers, and some better brake fluid?

 

and if i did the nsx caliper swap i would order rotors and pads for the nsx right?

sorry for all these questions but i want to understand everything i do to my car 120% and i want to make sure i do it right the first time.

and as you can see from my numbers below i did my motor right the first time.

 

yes

yes

yes and no (if you use 28 mm rotors)

no

91-96

piston area is actually smaller (but pad size is the same) - so using stock MC is ok

perfect

 

Big egos are not held in high esteem here. Dyno numbers vary considerably.

 

Track meaning 1/4 mile or track meaning road course/auto-x?

I'm far from an expert, but they do let me hang out on weekends. I don't think you have to spend a chitload of money to get fade-free braking for your purposes. At least you've dropped the idea of slotted/drilled rotors.

Go ahead and get the blanks and pads, and flush with Ford HD or ATE SuperBl00 fluid first. If you still need better feel, get the SS lines. If that's not enough, try another pad and finally upgrade the calipers. No need to break the bank all at once.