Hey guys, i've just recently swapped a Z6 head/intake etc. on my D13 block.
Running a P28 Ecu ( from manual ).

The problem is that when the car is cold its idling fine (with a pretty loud surging sound).
And as the car gets up to operating temp, you can kinda hear a click and the "surging" sound stops and the car dies.
If i then restart it i have a idle of like 300~rpm and then ofcourse it stalls after a little while.

It's not throwing any codes, the tps is calibrated, no vacuum leaks and i have bled the coolant.

Anyone been through the same thing?

 

Clean the IACV. Then go from there.

 

Alright, will do that thanks.

 

Cleaned the iacv, no difference at all.

edit;
one more thing that happens is when the car dies ( when coming to a redlight or whatever ) and you start it again, it wont rev up at all for a few seconds even if you give full throttle. Takes a few seconds of pumping the throttle then its driveable again.
Could it be leaking injectors perhaps?

 

Have you cleaned the FITV? It's controlled by the coolant temperature.

Also sounds like maybe your idle is set low and cannot be properly set until the car is fully warm and there is not any kind of idle searches or idle hunting/seeking.

Also, you need to provide car information to conform with the tech forum requirements. Year, Make, Model, Trim and Mods. Thanks.

 

Nope havent cleaned fitv, thought about doing that next. Could that affect when car i warm aswell? thought it only had a role when car was cold.

i have tried to set idle when its warm but no matter what i do it doesnt change, sometimes it can go up to around 800rpm for a few seconds but then goes back down to 100 - 300~rpm.

its a 93' DX, 1,3l Carb from the start.
I have done a mini-me swap on the D13 block. Im using a P28 ecu, along with all the harnesses from an Si.

 

A problem FITV generally causes cold idle or hunting idle problems, not low warm idle problems.

Did you follow the service manual instructions for the idle adjust? Describe exactly what you did.

The idle adjust procedure should match with the P28 ECU.

 

This is the one i followed

 

How did you read 420 rpm with the IACV disconnected?

 

I didn't, wasnt even needed as i can hardly reach 420 rpm. Without the iacv i barely get from the drivers seat to the engine bay without it turning off.

Right now i've forced the throttle to be a bit open ( idles around 2000rpm )

When i give full throttle and let it go rpm sinks down so much the engine almost dies and then goes back up.

 

How can you say you followed the diagram if you didn't get past step 5?

Hook up an external tachometer and do the procedure correctly from step 1 to step 10.

 

No i havent been able to complete the diagram but i thought that said itself as i said the engine wont stay on for long

I dont own an external tacho, i should still be able to just get a higher idle without that one shouldnt i? I don't care if its not 100% to spec as the car is hardly used as a daily anyways.

 

Get a tach and do the procedure correctly.

 

How will that change things when the engine doesnt idle what so ever without the iacv connected?

 

What do you conclude after doing a procedure incorrectly? I think the answer should be obvious.

By the way, does the CEL work?

 

Yes the Cel works, and its not throwing any codes.

 

So you know what needs to be done. It's up to you how you proceed.