Just trying to understand this a little better

Does anyone have an understanding of these on FWD?

And what can be used to enhance anti-dive or anti-squat


Davegt27

 

better shocks. stiffer springs.

stiffer front radius rod bushings or solid spherical bearing assembly.

why? theres no magical device that will change rear to front weight transfer.

 

I am sorry I should have said anti-dive, ant-squat geometry


I left off the geometry part

Are you saying there is no such thing?


Davegt27

 

Dafuq you talking about? Sway bars?

Are you trying to stop the car squatting when launching, i.e., drag racing? Or stop side to side movement like a sway bar would do?

 

I asked a similar question on WAR tech board

It’s basically when you can draw a line going through the A-arm bolts and they are angled toward the CG

On RWD it’s easy to understand but on this FWD Honda we have a rod going forward and the drive wheels are out front also

White line has antilift bushings (I am not selling anything)

Again I am not selling anything

I just want to see if I can improve this CRX

David

 

i get what youre talking about now.

but nobody has made any sort of kit for hondas.

probably because of the independent double wishbone suspension.

 

I don't know of a mechanical/geometrical part for anti-dive and anti-squat, besides stiffening your suspension.

The only thing I can think of is Tein super street pillowball upper mount coliovers with EDFC Active Pro controller that adjusts dampening based on G-sensor and speed sensor:

http://www.tein.com/products/edfc_active_pro.html

 

So basically all you want to do is induce more positive caster?

 

I think what I going to do is you know the stay rod that goes forward

Well I am going to try to move the mounting from the top of the lower control arm to the bottom of the lower control arm
This will change the angle and give some degree of anti-lift



Davegt27

 

Pretty sure moving the radius rod isn't going to help you at all.
If anything, you would want to shorten the radius rod to pull the LCA and wheel forward.
Or somehow push the upper control arm toward the back of the car.

The video you posted is for a MacPherson strut. Basically the suspension consists of only the LCA and a tiny steering knuckle that bolts up to the strut. The LCA connects to the chassis in two points - in line with each other towards the front and the back of the car. They are able to adjust the caster by dropping the mounting point in the back of the LCA which in turn changes the angle the LCA will travel up and down. This is how the the more positive caster is achieved. NOW - with a stock suspension with worn rubber mounts the OPPOSITE happens when brakes are applied. The rear of the LCA lifts and geometry changes to produce the weird feeling like the back end of the car is going to come over the top. The poly bushings help with most of that "anti-dive" sensation.

The CRX has a double wishbone suspension that consists of the the LCA, knuckle (MUCH larger than the knuckle found on a MacPherson car), UCA, and radius rods. The LCA is much different than the MacPherson because there is nothing to be dropped in the back. There is only one chassis mounting point. the steering knuckle is suspended between ball joints so even if you could somehow get the LCA to rotate (to simulate being dropped in the back) the ball joint would just correct for this angular error. The only way you can adjust for more positive caster is by pulling the LCA ball joint towards the front of the car or by pushing the UCA ball joint to the back. This changes the angle of the entire steering knuckle movement = caster change.

 

I see I need to move the chassis side of the stay rod


thanks
Davegt27

 

Maybe take a look into a less compliant material for your control arm bushings and a good traction bar kit to replace your front crossmember/radius rods.

 

It’s a race car and has solid bushings

I just added the traction bar and I am going to 20" tall road race slicks


Davegt27

 

The radius rod geometry of our cars has got to be pretty good at anti dive already. But I wonder if you could raise the crossmember mounting point to increase anti dive characteristics? What bar did you buy?

 

That's not how it works with double a-arm. If it were a MacPherson, then you would be on the right path be raising a front mounting point. That would twist the axis, but this isn't MacPherson so no workie.

Double a-arm has a ball joint at the top and bottom that set the axis. You have to move this forward/backward to make this happen.

 

Your right it’s pretty dang good already but with 20" tall tires its starts to get screwed up

The radius rod makes one side of the "A" so one of the reasons I bought a traction bar was because I knew I would be able to reset it, for the other side

The LCA side I've been trying to find out if another Honda cross member will bolt up

Say like an Integra if the bolt on stuff does not work then I will have to cut and re-weld the chassis pick-up point


Davegt27