Probably see me post my troubles on here alot, right now its my ecu changing my ignition timing. It retards it.
I try n jump the ignition service connector, but that doesnt stop the ecu from fiddling with me trying to align the timing perfectly.

I took my multi meter and did the following:
Positive and neg leads( from multimeter) inserted into the plug, lowest ohms setting, it showed a 1.
-Then positive lead(multimeter) to green/white wire pin, and negative lead to negative post on battery, readings 4.0 ohms.
- then i put a connector on the ignition service connection( has 2 wires on the end that i hooked together, to try n close the circuit) , put positive lead onto the connector and negative lead to negative battery, got 4.2ohms.

So... does that mean, while nothing is connected, the circuit is open? Is it suppose to be?

And b) while "jumped" is it suppose to be at 4 ohms.

How do i check if the ground on the connector is good?
*Edit*
- when i inserted a paper clip in the ign connector, and then put the multimeter pos nd neg leads on the connector, i got a reading of 5ohms.
Also, i have this 6v-12v tester, and if i connect it to the pos terminal on battery and touch any metal on the car it lights up. So while attached to the battery, i touched the red wire pin on the service plug,( ground right??) And it didnt light.
I touched the green wht wire pin and the light turned on. So it gets 6 volts to the positive side but not negative. I had a paper clip jammed into the neg side of the connector, then a wire with alligator clips at the ends attached to ground.

 

Not saying yours is the same but by chance your ecu was chipped like mine, good luck ever getting the crank pulley timing lines to line up with the timing cover line. My old engine and my new engine have the same issue, no lines can reach the timing cover line. I tried three different timing lights as well. Just something to be aware of. This is of course using the same ecu. I have yet to use another ecu

 

Its not chipped. I had a stock one, that i burned on accident, then bought another stock one.

What happens with my car is, if i wipe the ecu memory, so it forgets the timing, i can adjust the dizzy to align the marks.
Then i see my rpm rise to about1200 and 1500, then back to like 750. Then i check my timing and the ignition timing is retarded, and the dizzy is advanced all the way

I believe its because i cant seem to disable that ignition adjusting setting the ecu has, the connector has power, and ive tried grounding the brown wire...

When i was running obd1, i had the service plug thing on a toggle switch, and i would just turn it onand the check engine would stay light, and that allowed me to adjust my timing..

 

You have to connect the service connector and unplug the IACV on the back of the throttle body. At least, that's what I did.

As for grounding the service connector, I use speaker wire. Just some 16 gauge or so. Strip the ends back about an inch and plug it into each side.

Are you sure your dizzy isn't shoved in there 180 degrees off? Doubt it. But it happens.

 

So dc the iacv plug will allow me to adjust idle?

My ecu has drastically changed my timing. When i put everythinf to tdc and put the belt on, and rechecked to make sure the tdc mark lined up, i started the car, and there was alot of adjustability with the dizzy, but the car wasnt warmed up.

If i allow it to warm up, while its warming up the ecu will retard the timing while it revs up, then after its warm, it will not let me line it up perfectly, like half a tooth off,(fully advanced) even tho my mechanical timing is perfect.

Yesterday i used my multi meter on lowest ohms, and from negative battery post to positive wire on the connector i got 0.1ohm, which means continuity?
Then i did the same for the ground wire, and got .99ohm, which means open circuit?
I then used a paper clip jammed into the ground, then attached a wire with clips onto a ground on the chassis, i then got .1ohms for ground and .1 ohms for the power, so that means the circuit was complete?

 

One of the wires in the service connector goes directly to ground.
(I'm not sure why your meter won't read closer to zero on either wire.)
Try hooking a wire to a known ground and plugging that into the service connector.

You should ONLY have to plug the service connector to disable the electronic ignition control from the ECU.
It grounds a pin on the ECU.

 

Ok. But if the ohm reading is 0.1 that means the circuit is complete or closed?
I also but the paper clip in like a U shape into the connector, that got .1ohm reading as well, does that mean it disabled the ignition control thing?

 

If you are reading anything at all it's a complete circuit. When you get that "1" or infinite resistance it's open.

 

^^ that.
I wasn't reading your original post very well. I thought you were getting much higher numbers.

 

I had it at 200 ohm, but now its at a lower ohm setting(harbor freight multimeter).

So let me understand, .1 ohm is complete And .99 ohm is also complete?

I ask because, when the connector is left alone( nothing plugged in it) is it suppose to be a complete circuit?? Cuz i thought it was incomplete, whicH is why i thought you had to jump it with a paper clip or wire or whatever.

 

Pretty new at this but on the pic, that symbol with the sideways arrow and a line going thru it, is to check for continuity?
On that setting, if i probe the negative battery post and the positive( green white)pin inside the connector i get 003.
If i probe the ground pin( brown wire) i get 794.
If i Ground the brown pin, then probe it i get 003.
What does it mean?

 

Hopefully this makes it a tad more simple, if you have the multimeter set to resistance and you have the two probes touching nothing at all whatever it displays is equivalent to an open/incomplete circuit. Usually it's represented by a "1" to the far left of the display. Touch the two probes to complete the circuit and it should display 0.00 or whatever increment you have it set to.

 

Thats a symbol for a diode. You're measuring polarity here

Slide the dial 1 turn clockwise to 200 Ω greek capital letter omega (hey copy, paste symbol works!!! sorry to go off topic like that )

An open circuit will read O.L.

A closed circuit (with no resistors inline) will read a low value like 0.3 OHM

You can test your meter by touching the ground and red lead together = about 0.3 OHMS

 

Oh ok got it now. I understand the circuit stuff a little more. Thx guys

Oh and ive been messing with my cam, turning it towards the front of the car, towards the radiator side, and after dc the iacv, my idle stayed the same, check engine did come on tho, and i loosened the idle screw to raise the idle to i think 750, and iT helped with the ignition timing... weird. Not perfect, but out of the 3 score marks, the one on the right( next to the middle) lines up with the cover mark, with dizy all the way advanced, so i guess ill leave it at that, its the closest im going to get w/o adjustable gear