My 95 accord cranks very slow like the battery is dead. sometimes wont crank at all especially when hot. However if I jump the starter straight to the battery it cranks like a champ. Since then I replaced the Battery with an Optima and new terminals, also replaced the starter, and the ignition switch and the main relay, but the problem still persist. When I check voltage on the small starter signal wire i get 12v however when the wire is connected to the starter i get 8-9 volts. I am stumped. I have to jump the starter everytime now. My battery cables look good. I removed them and cleaned them up including the ground to the engine and to the chassis. no results.
Anyone have any ideas?
Thank you in advance

 

check your g101 ground

 

check resistance from the neg battery post to the starter casing

 

Update.
I checked resistance from the Positive battery terminal to the positive on the starter with a multimeter and it goes to zero. Also checked from the negative battery terminal to the body, to the frame, to the engine and to the starter casing and they all go to zero. I disconnected the starter signal wire and ran a new wire from the starter to the ignition harness (the black and yellow wire) and still cranks very slow if at all.
again if I jump the stater straight to the battery it cranks like a champ. I have not checked the ground at G101 because I could not find it in the dark.
At the moment I am stumped any suggestions please feel free to comment

 

since youre bypassing the ignition switch when applying power directly to the starter solenoid i would guess that the ignition switch is bad .. you can do a voltage drop on the ignition switch's start position by hooking an alligator lead on the yellow/black wire solder joint and the solder joint in the furthest position away from you(i think its the white wire but not sure) .. then crank and if you get more than 1 volt that should mean the ignition switch is bad since current is trying to bypass the start circuit and travel down your lead instead .. you will probably see something like 10 volts

in fact the fact that it will crank should be proof enough

 

I replaced the ignition switch as well. Still cranks slow if at all. I jump the wire I ran to the harness that the ignition switch connects to and same results. I tried the white wire which has power when the key is on and same thing. The black and yellow wire same. THe only way I can start it is under the hood.
any thoughts?

 

i think you will find this is a ground issue

 

I agree with you. yesterday I replaced both battery cables and all 3 ground wires from the battery. One to the engine, one to the body and one to the chassis. However I have not located any other ground points. Does anyone know where are some other common ground locations on a 94-97 accord?

 

can you explain this in better detail ?

 

basically the voltage on the starter signal wire (small black and yellow wire)is too low to turn the motor. The only way the car starts is jumping it directly to the battery.
So far I have changed the battery and terminals and cables. replaced all grounds. replaced the ignition. replaced the main relay. but no results.
I ran a new starter signal wire from the starter to the inside of the car. I tried jumping it from several points throughout the wire harness. same results.
I basically have to jump the car from under the hood at every start.

 

what voltage do you get on your door panels and accessories when you put the key into II mode?? you know when your dash lights turn on, im thinking you are not getting full power TO the switch

 

better yet go to your distributor and probe the black/yellow wire at the distributor plug with key on you should get 12+ volts if you don't might indicate bad ground which one i don't know yet. just want to see if you get 12 volts or not on other parts of the car

 

here ignore the engine mount control solenoid valve....
do you have reference voltage at your tps?

 

 

On the white wire going to the ignition switch i get 12 volts until i try to start. It drops down to 10 volts. its just enough to turn the starter over very slow. I have not checked the voltage on the distributor or tps yet.

 

i JUST WENT out to my cb7 put my voltmeter ground lead on ground and the voltage lead on the white wire ignition switch got 12 volts standing went to crank it 2 volt drop to 10 volts. did you replace the ignition switch or the tumbler?

this http://www.discountbodyparts.com/cat...cid=productads

or this http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/se...995&vi=1167319

 

im thinking its the electrical contacts on the ignition switch unless you have a bad wire someone behind the interior fuse box, you might have to take out the interior fuse box. funny thing is my car still starts if i remove the starter signal fuse.... beats me

 

sounds like you got a bad starter out of the box

it should still be under warranty .. swap it out and see if it fixes it

 

Switch is the electrical switch, if the contacts are dirty, overly greased, corroded, or worn the voltage through the III(START) position will cause a voltage drop.

Tumbler is merely a lockout device that require the key to rotate, which in turn turns the switch to the desired position.

ORYl also has an image of the steering colunm lock/tumbler/switch as an assembly. Most likely you will never need to replace the column lock due to normal wear/tear.

 

You have either a corroded wire In your harness somewhere or a loose connection.

I don't have a diagram for your car but if your jumping the ign and it starts when you jump it with the bat then the problem is before the keyswitch.

Find a diagram and post it up. I'm thinking its your fuse box tho. Take your batt fuse out of the fuse box and resistance test it.

Take the fuse box out and check for corrosion on the connectors on the back.

 

the starter pulls the most amount of power of anything.. its nomal for voltage to drop down to 10 or even 9 volts .. the starter should still crank at normal speed

 

Not at the solenoid. And its not normal to drop to 10 or 9 volts.

12v solenoid needs 12 volts to energize.

 

this thread is full of fail, the solenoid on the starter is what switches the high current from the battery to the starter motor, if it's clicking, and the starter is turning slow, the contacts inside the starter at the solenoid are bad, let me guess advance or autozone starter? it's not uncommon to get two or three crap starters out of the box from these stores, I've taken apart "rebuilt" starters from box stores, and found dirt, pitted solenoid contacts, worn brushes etc,

 

the starter turning is going to pull the voltage down everywhere in the circuit, you can't have the battery voltage drop to 10 volts and have 12 volts at the solenoid at the same time

 

Oreilies electrics are pretty good, Nappa has two lines, the better one is good, go to an auto electric place, see what they use, I tell people this all the time, they wont use **** brands, because they don't want to be replacing them again under warranty, don't buy anything electrical from advance or auto zone, unless it's new and a name brand you know is good, their rebuilt stuff is complete crap. for a simple test, hook a length of wire to the solonoid terminal, the small wire on the starter, touch this to the positive terminal at the battery, if it cranks over slow, it's the starter, this bypasses everything else.