800HP daily GSR
hey guys need someone that knows alot about turbos to help me choose a setup. i am currently waiting on my 2000 GSR to come back from a shop in the bronx my b18c1 is being built to handle 1000hp im getting a full cut and roll cage. It will be getting tuned on hondata at xenocron once its done. i want to have 650-750hp on a street tune and 900-950 on an all out drag tune which turbo would best suit what im looking for?
hey guys need someone that knows alot about turbos to help me choose a setup. i am currently waiting on my 2000 GSR to come back from a shop in the bronx my b18c1 is being built to handle 1000hp im getting a full cut and roll cage. It will be getting tuned on hondata at xenocron once its done. i want to have 650-750hp on a street tune and 900-950 on an all out drag tune which turbo would best suit what im looking for?
650-750 for the street well you should be able to get in some 4th gear pulls mostly 1-3 will not hook up at all. Once you spool spin city and I have less power than that and mt et streets.
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Who is Mr Robot?
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650-750 will take lots of e85 and at least methanol injection. anything over that will require a steady diet of race fuel, something along the lines of vp c16 or q16 which takes it out of the realm of a practical street car.
to be able to put even 650hp down will take serious rubber, the kind of rubber that no longer makes it a street car. even with biggest, stickiest dot legal tires you're going to need boost by gear and more than likely some form of traction control that monitors all 4 wheels for any signs of wheel spin. the problem is most Hondas can't run a wide enough tread section to get traction, at least not with stock width body panels.
a good fender roll and pull might give you another inch of tread width but it's still going to take a very tall tire. even then like stated above gears 1-3 will be completely useless. A 3 piece front end is the best method to fit large rubber on the driven wheels. then that requires custom width and offset wheels with provisions for beadlocks as the power you are talking about running will simply cause the wheel to spin inside the tire.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
the budget for a reliable nearly 1,000hp fwd Honda is going to put you in the 20,000usd range and that's assuming you do most of the work yourself.
to be able to put even 650hp down will take serious rubber, the kind of rubber that no longer makes it a street car. even with biggest, stickiest dot legal tires you're going to need boost by gear and more than likely some form of traction control that monitors all 4 wheels for any signs of wheel spin. the problem is most Hondas can't run a wide enough tread section to get traction, at least not with stock width body panels.
a good fender roll and pull might give you another inch of tread width but it's still going to take a very tall tire. even then like stated above gears 1-3 will be completely useless. A 3 piece front end is the best method to fit large rubber on the driven wheels. then that requires custom width and offset wheels with provisions for beadlocks as the power you are talking about running will simply cause the wheel to spin inside the tire.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
the budget for a reliable nearly 1,000hp fwd Honda is going to put you in the 20,000usd range and that's assuming you do most of the work yourself.
650-750 will take lots of e85 and at least methanol injection. anything over that will require a steady diet of race fuel, something along the lines of vp c16 or q16 which takes it out of the realm of a practical street car.
to be able to put even 650hp down will take serious rubber, the kind of rubber that no longer makes it a street car. even with biggest, stickiest dot legal tires you're going to need boost by gear and more than likely some form of traction control that monitors all 4 wheels for any signs of wheel spin. the problem is most Hondas can't run a wide enough tread section to get traction, at least not with stock width body panels.
a good fender roll and pull might give you another inch of tread width but it's still going to take a very tall tire. even then like stated above gears 1-3 will be completely useless. A 3 piece front end is the best method to fit large rubber on the driven wheels. then that requires custom width and offset wheels with provisions for beadlocks as the power you are talking about running will simply cause the wheel to spin inside the tire.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
the budget for a reliable nearly 1,000hp fwd Honda is going to put you in the 20,000usd range and that's assuming you do most of the work yourself.
to be able to put even 650hp down will take serious rubber, the kind of rubber that no longer makes it a street car. even with biggest, stickiest dot legal tires you're going to need boost by gear and more than likely some form of traction control that monitors all 4 wheels for any signs of wheel spin. the problem is most Hondas can't run a wide enough tread section to get traction, at least not with stock width body panels.
a good fender roll and pull might give you another inch of tread width but it's still going to take a very tall tire. even then like stated above gears 1-3 will be completely useless. A 3 piece front end is the best method to fit large rubber on the driven wheels. then that requires custom width and offset wheels with provisions for beadlocks as the power you are talking about running will simply cause the wheel to spin inside the tire.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
the budget for a reliable nearly 1,000hp fwd Honda is going to put you in the 20,000usd range and that's assuming you do most of the work yourself.
Precision 6766 will do what you are looking for:
http://phearable.net/turbo-component...sion-6766.html
Make sure you get your self a hondata traction control module for the massive power your trying to put down:
http://phearable.net/engine-computer...-flashpro.html
http://phearable.net/turbo-component...sion-6766.html
Make sure you get your self a hondata traction control module for the massive power your trying to put down:
http://phearable.net/engine-computer...-flashpro.html
I am another one that is a believer in the M&H 235/60/15. Just experienced my first ride and pulls on them last night. Eye opening. Amazing tire. A must for street duty with bigger power.
Ive heard alot of good things about the toyo proxes r888's at the horsepower he wants. With this being a part time street car you may wanna look at the 6266. Youll be able to get over 800 and have a lil better powerband. And you wont need meth injection with e85. I would say uou may wanna go with C85 E98 out of the barrell for something with a more cinsistant blend. Youll need a very nice fuel setup also. Boost by gear and some sort of traction control via hondata or aem is gonna be a must.
to be able to put even 650hp down will take serious rubber, the kind of rubber that no longer makes it a street car.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
if you want a drag car then build a drag car, just don't expect it to be of any use on the street. if you want a street car that you can take to the track then I seriously suggest you reevaluate your power goals.
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Pretty much
and me personally with the inconsistency in the quality of pump e85 from tank to tank I wouldn't push the limits without an ethanol content analyzer. I've seen pump e85 be as low as 60% ethanol. water meth is a good idea for any high power setup, it provides extra detonation threshold, cooler IATs, allows for more aggressive boost pressures and ignition timing, etc.
never hurts to have some help when you're making over 5 times the power of the stock motor.
and me personally with the inconsistency in the quality of pump e85 from tank to tank I wouldn't push the limits without an ethanol content analyzer. I've seen pump e85 be as low as 60% ethanol. water meth is a good idea for any high power setup, it provides extra detonation threshold, cooler IATs, allows for more aggressive boost pressures and ignition timing, etc.
never hurts to have some help when you're making over 5 times the power of the stock motor.
350-400whp is about all I have seen "really" be able to hook even with nice street/drag radials. beyond that, you dont stand a chance unless you dial the car in with traction control. and even then, the traction control software is working its *** off and pulling large amounts of power out.
you get to a point to where the power band comes in so hard, its not fun on the street and potentially dangerous spinning tire at 120mph
you get to a point to where the power band comes in so hard, its not fun on the street and potentially dangerous spinning tire at 120mph
Who is Mr Robot?
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From: ATL - Where the Pimps and Players dwell
Also we've found that the R888 has torque limits when used in a 2wd fr or ff layout. anything above 400-450lbft and they spin, regardless of size.
we tried their largest 18" offering on the rear of our 600lbft c6 z06 (dont remember the front size) and we had horrible traction issues, even when the tire was up to temp. traction was even worse than with our Michelin Pilot Sport Cups... that's saying something. needless to say they weren't on the car very long. the only tire that sucked worse were the nitto envos we tried and took off after only 2 or 3 days lol
we tried their largest 18" offering on the rear of our 600lbft c6 z06 (dont remember the front size) and we had horrible traction issues, even when the tire was up to temp. traction was even worse than with our Michelin Pilot Sport Cups... that's saying something. needless to say they weren't on the car very long. the only tire that sucked worse were the nitto envos we tried and took off after only 2 or 3 days lol
350-400whp is about all I have seen "really" be able to hook even with nice street/drag radials. beyond that, you dont stand a chance unless you dial the car in with traction control. and even then, the traction control software is working its *** off and pulling large amounts of power out.
you get to a point to where the power band comes in so hard, its not fun on the street and potentially dangerous spinning tire at 120mph
you get to a point to where the power band comes in so hard, its not fun on the street and potentially dangerous spinning tire at 120mph
Jesus, calm down people. I know guys that daily drive 1000HP Mustangs/Supras. Just cause you have 1000HP doesn't mean you are going to street race crotch rockets etc... I rarely even get into boost street driving any of my vehicles.
More power to you if you want to get beat by cars with less power.





