honda gurus... help me out

I have a b20z obd1 conversion swap in a 1990 civic dx with a full wire tuck. i did everything myself. im not a certified mechanic. i dont know general mechanics but i can put stuff together and i know how to solder wires together.

ECU: OBD1 P75(USING),P28, P28 HONDATA, P28 CROME (ALL THE ECUS I HAVE)

i was recently having troubles with the car starting and the fuel pump not priming... after a lot of tail chasing...come to find out. the ecu harness was damaged.

NOW, after ive gotten a new harness. it's started. i have codes 9, 16, and 41:
#9 - cyp... from what ive gathered this is usually correlated with the distributor. got a new one. no difference
#16 - fuel injector **FIXED**
#41 - O2 heater circuit **FIXED**


the dreadful rotor button screw came detached and bounced around.... i think that is what is causing my #9 code. EDIT:NOPE!!! NEW DISTRIBUTOR DIDNT CHANGE THAT

harness(pre taped)


any thoughts or directions you guys think i should take?


i had a dream that it was all of a sudden running perfectly smooth. this has been a project long in the making.... i just wanna get it all done so that i can get things rolling

 

Swap the injectors around and see if that header runner gets colored.

 

i tried that but i am slightly concerned about running the engine too long like that so i didnt want to wait too long. it LOOKS like it started to discolor a little bit from completely polished. see....

 

Seems to me that a mistake was made in the wiring from dual point to multi point. Where did you source your info from for the conversion?

 

no, i had that harness converted properly with the motor that i put in it before i did this swap.

 

check for continuity at the injector plug connector and the ecu harness side.
if it checks out you are good as far as the wiring is concerned.
its also smart to measure the voltage to see if it is correct.

sounds like you have a dead dizzy though or something in it is broken.

 

Have you resolved this issue? I am currently dealing with a similar situation with my 1990 Civic EX.
I adjusted the valves (I had not done this after my rebuild was complete), put everything back together, and now it won't start.
I checked the plugs, wires, and redid everything several times, to no avail.
This morning, I had my friend, who's a mechanic, come over to look over everything I did and he did not find anything wrong with what I did. He said it might be the distributor, which is brand-new (2 months). He used a tool that checked to see if the plugs and wires were creating spark. They do not appear to be producing any.
I am wondering about the wiring of the other parts mentioned in the above posts. If you figured it out, please let me know.

 

Thread jacked

 

After some checking of fuses and wiggling of wires, I found a loose connection under the dash. This was something I had not even gone near when making the valve adjustments. I must have kicked a wire during the starting and restarting of the car. (One of the many previous owners must have hot-wired it).

I apologized if it is me that "thread jacked". Since this is a recent post, I was simply commenting/asking about a similar problem in hopes of a possible solution.
Additionally, I have read in many places that it is not a good thing to start a thread where one already exists.

Perhaps the author of the original post (ghosthatch) figured out what took me 4 days to determine.

 

crvtectim and codybuRr,
Thank you for your advice about checking the wiring.

 

no worries,
any updates?

 

im getting my distributor in the mail tomorrow

its been a waiting game

 

def seemed like an entirely different issue than mine. and fully thread jacked

 

the new distributor did NOT correct my code 9 cyp code. ive seen pages talking about the plugs but i dont know which plugs in which pattern i should check for continuity. nor do i know what the voltage SHOULD be reading on the fuel injectors

 

anybody? how do i test the continuity in the harness? and what should the fuel injector voltage read?

is the cyp causing my misfire or is the injector causing the misfire?

AND... again, what is exactly going on in the third cylinder that isnt making the header not discolor

 

Check ur jumper harness and see if it converted properly. Injectors should be getting 12v. Heres is a link on how to check continuity check cyp wires continuity from dizzy connector to ecu jumper make sure its pined at the right spots

 

ive walked through instructions on checking continuity and ive checked continuity in a relay but never in a harness

my question is which wires do i test and how. i know how to test for voltage and can check for continuity if i know which wires i check with. but how do i go about doing that with the harness? do i do like voltage and just use any ground? am i supposed to follow some particular pattern?

 

Woooww!!!

 

how do i reach the harness plugs in the bay and the ecu harness with the same multimeter?

 

Really! ???

 

you could just offer some sound advice rather than being a smartass

 

I gave u good advice

 

well i got the injector fixed.... now hunting down cyp code.

new issue: clutch is engaged no matter how tight or loose clutch cable is