UPDATE 6/23/14 - subframe has been replaced. Go to post #38 for newest pics:




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Wondering whether this can/should be repaired for a daily driver approaching 180K. Thoughts and personal experience greatly appreciated.

2000 Civic EX coupe with the following modifications to the rear suspension:

- Koni yellows w/ H&R Springs. Lowered ~1.75".
- solid LCA bushings (inboard and outboard)
- ASR subframe brace
- 22mm CTR swaybar w/ Energy suspension bushings
- rear disc conversion
- Rolls on 205/45-16 Potenza RE760 Sports 9 months/year.
- Currently @ 177,xxx miles. Has been on this set-up for 108,000 miles.

The car wanted to step out on on me on a highway exit ramp this week. Got under it this morning to look around and saw the rear subframe damage below. Drivers side has completely broken through. Passenger side is cracked.

Driver's side:



Passenger side:



Fix it or part it?

 

Buy a new subframe for 100-200$ dude. Way better option than fixing it any other way

 

Er. Not. These don't bolt on/off. They are welded. Expensive if you don't know how to weld or have that kind of hookup.

 

You'll need to replace it, welding is required. That is the proper way of repairing it.

 

that's pretty dumb if you ask me. It'd be way better if you could just pop it out and pop a new one in.

 

As grumble and tony mention, you need a new subframe and weld it.

Part# 37

http://www.oemacuraparts.com/auto-pa...5-speed-manual

 

Find me a car with a rear subframe bolted on.

 

OP if you decide not to fix it can I call dibs on your suspension?

I'm in the market for some used coil overs/sway bars

 

my 7th Gen accord bruh. Ask me how I know

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fa...b6d7f.jpg.html

 

So you downplay Honda's old cars to be dumb but drive a more advanced Honda......

I think its best to not response to an issue you don't know anything about. Because you don't realize that Honda "advance" from there older versions, learn from there older designs and built efficient design.

 

I dont drive the Accord much anymore, the trans isn't happy. I think they're all sorta dumb, in their own ways.

 

Point is still not valid.

 

No friggin' duh. But that still doesn't change teh fact that it requires welding to remove and replace.

 

ill be welding this on my own car soon enough. my daily is eaten up with rust. i wonder if your stiffened chassis/bushings/suspension geometry helped speed up the breaking process, because honestly the underside of your car looks like a new car compared to mine.

 

I never looked at it on my EGs, I didnt know they were welded on instead of bolted in

what exactly is your point, Tony? That I should appreciate a subframe that's welded on? If Honda should have learned anything, it would be to come.up with a different, better design for the V6 automatics. Now if Honda managed to do that, id be impressed.

 

Thanks for that link Carlos. I had trouble finding it on other OEM part sites.

The stiffness of everything didn't help, but I'm pretty surprised that the ASR brace essentially pulled through the subframe. Road conditions around here may also have been a contributing factor. I'm very careful, but its impossible to avoid all potholes, repairs, etc.

The work itself it beyond my capability. I'm going to get a quote to get it cut out and have the new one welded in. Will let you guys know how much $$$ we're talking about for the labor.

 

I think you'll not be happy with the quote. I think the gas tank it right in the vicinity so it's not just a matter of removing suspension part and welding. You pretty much have to take everything on the back end including gas tank off to do any welding safely.

 

I'm sure its mandatory to remove that gas tank to prevent flames. Rust might've been eating through from before and he added the ASR to prevent it from snapping, who knows. But now its too late so he'll need to "redneck" it and just re-enforce it, sand it down and weld it back on to the best he can, or get it done right and have the subframe replace completely.

 

Do some research and come back and say that again, and if you still say the same thing than you technically haven't researched.

 

Pleasure to help!!!

Now, We perform this job in a client ej8 once, Remove it is piece of cake.

Remove the gas tank.

We use dustless blaster to remove the coating, then cut the frame. ( wire brush with torch do the trick).

The worst part is not affect the chassis geometry when install the new one, so we used the benchpack laser alignment hoist to OEM specs, and Tackling the frame using the stock suspension with the benchpack middle hoist.

https://honda-tech.com/attachment.ph...1&d=1397405169

If somebody have trouble with my broken English please ask and I try to fix any Mistake.

 

no matter what you say, you're still wrong. A LOT of cars have bolt in rear subframes. i don't even know what your point is, really. I don't think you do either.

as for the op, i wonder how long it has been cracked, since it is pretty rusted in the broken areas.

 

never weld any frame parts, don't care how much the shops say they can fix them. they will never be the same...
just get a new subframe for a couple hundo as said above, new hardware/bushings while everything's out and do it the right way.

 

Good luck getting a good price 94civicsi, if you search around you could prolly find someone to do it at a fair price. It'd be tight if u honored my dibs on your coil overs, if you decide to part it out that is.

 

Spent the past couple of weeks finding a replacement daily driver and haven't dealt with this yet. Did take the sway bar and brace off yesterday to get a better look at the damage. It's not pretty.







A local welding shop wouldn't touch it.

Majestic Honda collision center estimated 20-30 hours @ $60/hr.

I spoke to a fabricator last week who wanted me to bring the car over. He hasn't seen these photos yet though.

 

So how do you suppose he replace this subframe?