Do the cold air systems really work? Doe the wet filter really last 100,1000mi before cleaning?

 

Typical CAI systems, like AEMs, place the filter and tubing lower eliminating the intake silencer.
Wet filters are rather old technology. Newer systems use a dry filter that can be washed and reinstalled. Including AEM, they used to have the oiled filters but now have dry filtration.
Filters will need to be checked periodically to make sure they are not clogged. Mileage doesn't matter if you were stuck in a dust storm with the engine on you might go 10miles and have a clogged filter.
I usually inspect and clean my CAI cone filter at every oil change.

As for working, it works.
As for power, there may or maynot be any power increase at higher rpms. I thought the engine revved much more smoothly at higher rpms.

 

There's a few oem upgrades for the airbox/tube that will net the same/similar/more gains, as well. I run a 4th gen h23 prelude intake tube and box with the resonator removed in the bumper-I kept the Helmholtz chamber attached on the tube near the throttle body. Low key, keeps the oem look, and the factory airboxes act as a pressure chamber. Also, an oem paper filter is not a restriction on these cars(at least at near stock power levels), I've tested it at the track and found no difference in et or trap speed.

 

 

Thanks for your input. Saved me some money, as I'm not looking to build a ''tuner''.

 

 

Go to a local pick n pull style junkyard, I bet if they have a Prelude, you could snag the tube and airbox for no more than $30. It's worth it, makes a much better noise and has a slightly larger filtration area than the factory Accord's. No way to mount it to the chassis, though, but it fits snug between the battery and inner fender.

Here's a picture of my setup:


Between the F23 intake manifold, the header, prelude intake, and 05-06 RSX Type-S muffler, the car makes a GREAT noise and power has really picked up in the 4000+RPM range. I can tell it'll wake up a bit more with the F22A6 cam and a tune. I'm sure 140whp/150whtq shouldn't be out of the question at that point. It's not a lot of power, but I don't have a ton into the mods(think under $200) and most of it has been from "Well, that needs replaced/cleaned/don't-know-when-the-last-time-it's-been-maintained" line of thought. If I had to pick any one mod that made the most power, it'd have to be the header. Going from a short 4-1 style of the factory F22B2 to this eBay(still short-ish runner length) 4-2-1 header REALLY picked up power past 4500RPM. The car pulls pretty strong to 6000+RPM now, where it used to die out at around 5500RPM.