Bench bleed on car?
Hi, I bench bled and installed a Master cylinder a while back. I forgot the gasket that goes between the booster and the M/C. So after realizing what I did, I reinstalled the gasket.
My question is this: Could air gotten back into the M/C because this gasket wasn't in? Or did that gasket just seal the pushrod to the booster (vacuum)? If it did cause air to get back into the system, could I just re-bench-bleed that thing right on the car?
Thanks for any info, I need to know so I can start with it tomorrow.
My question is this: Could air gotten back into the M/C because this gasket wasn't in? Or did that gasket just seal the pushrod to the booster (vacuum)? If it did cause air to get back into the system, could I just re-bench-bleed that thing right on the car?
Thanks for any info, I need to know so I can start with it tomorrow.
Did you undo the brake lines to move the MC out far enough to put that seal back in? If you did you will probably need to bleed again.
EDIT: You'll get this brake problem fixed sooner or later
[Modified by Stew Pidasso, 12:48 PM 10/30/2002]
EDIT: You'll get this brake problem fixed sooner or later
[Modified by Stew Pidasso, 12:48 PM 10/30/2002]
Yea, I had to pull the two lines (I plugged them when I pulled the lines of though) to pull it forward enough, and I just barely had enough room to slip that seal on. If I plug the lines I don't see why I can't just bench bleed it on car right? (You can see I don't want to pull that thing out again!)
if you had to disconnect the hardlines you NEED to bleed those brakes at the bare minimum.
dont worry about bench bleeding, but get that car up in the air and have a friend help you bleed the brakes.
dont worry about bench bleeding, but get that car up in the air and have a friend help you bleed the brakes.
I pulled the lines, replaced the seal and re-bled again, and still have soft pedal a few days back.
My question was if applying the brake without that seal (Before I put it back in) will let air enter the MC or not. I understand everything else.
I'm trying to narrow everything down, so I don't have to pull the lines, to re-bleed the MC, then bleed the system again. Just to find out it's something else. That is why I'm asking what I'm asking. See what I mean?
My question was if applying the brake without that seal (Before I put it back in) will let air enter the MC or not. I understand everything else.
I'm trying to narrow everything down, so I don't have to pull the lines, to re-bleed the MC, then bleed the system again. Just to find out it's something else. That is why I'm asking what I'm asking. See what I mean?
Negative, homie...
the MC is hooked to the booster and a rod just pushes the plunger. thats just a dust seal/gasket to keep it all nice n clean in there.
make sure you dont have a vacuum leak on your car/to the booster.
the MC is hooked to the booster and a rod just pushes the plunger. thats just a dust seal/gasket to keep it all nice n clean in there.
make sure you dont have a vacuum leak on your car/to the booster.
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Ok, then I guess I'm exploring other things next.
Yea when that seal was out, there was ZERO brakes, and the idle went nuts. It totally affected vacuum.
There is not vacuum leak that I can hear or see upon inspection. Check valve works well. I am going to (I totally am sick of ******* bleeding this thing!!) bleed AGAIN today and see if I can get a pedal.
I've done maybe fifty brake jobs and said I could do them blind folded. I sure met my match on this one!
Yea when that seal was out, there was ZERO brakes, and the idle went nuts. It totally affected vacuum.
There is not vacuum leak that I can hear or see upon inspection. Check valve works well. I am going to (I totally am sick of ******* bleeding this thing!!) bleed AGAIN today and see if I can get a pedal.
I've done maybe fifty brake jobs and said I could do them blind folded. I sure met my match on this one!
perhaps you have a leaky/bad cyl on the back or (hhuhu) gimpy caliper.. hell maybe the perportioning valve.
stuff you never noticed before replacing the MC.
stuff you never noticed before replacing the MC.
Wheel cylinders aren't leaking. Although the rear brake bleeder screw doesn't seem to do anything more than dribble out. No real flow. So I'm going to switch the two bleeder screws and if it does it again that I knw it's a clogged line. If it doesn't then I'll know its the bleeder screw.
I don't know what to do if it's a clogged line. Just keep trying to flush? Or replace the line?
Also where the hell does the rear line go? Am I going to have to take the back seat out to get to it if it needs to be replaced? it seems to go up in the body. Thanks.
I don't know what to do if it's a clogged line. Just keep trying to flush? Or replace the line?
Also where the hell does the rear line go? Am I going to have to take the back seat out to get to it if it needs to be replaced? it seems to go up in the body. Thanks.
check out hondaautomotiveparts.com for your brake lineage... far as i know they do NOT go into the body!might go under a heatshied or something though.
OK I FOUND THE AIR SOURCE! It was a faulty wheel cylinder on the back right. I will go and buy a new one tonight. Thanks for everyone's help! Take it ez.
Jason
Jason
SHIIIIIIIIIT. I replaced the damn cylinder and bled and still have soft pedal. I'm ready to blow it up!
I adjusted until there was a slight drag on the wheel when I turned it. I have zero parking brake now though, so I'll have to adjust that. I am going to start bleeding again tomorrow. I don't know what else is left. I've replaced the mc, rear brakes, wheel cylinders, front pads.
I'm going to inspect the calipers again tomorrow. I looked them over last time and the seals looked fine.
I am sick of looking at this brake light!!!!!!!!!!1
I might add that when I push the brake pedal the idle drops maybe 150 rpms. If I pump it it'll drop maybe 250 rpms. Is this maybe a check valve problem or just replace my vacuum hose and see what happens. Idle is fine otherwise.
Help me Jesus!
[Modified by snoop_bealybob, 4:29 AM 11/1/2002]
I adjusted until there was a slight drag on the wheel when I turned it. I have zero parking brake now though, so I'll have to adjust that. I am going to start bleeding again tomorrow. I don't know what else is left. I've replaced the mc, rear brakes, wheel cylinders, front pads.
I'm going to inspect the calipers again tomorrow. I looked them over last time and the seals looked fine.
I am sick of looking at this brake light!!!!!!!!!!1
I might add that when I push the brake pedal the idle drops maybe 150 rpms. If I pump it it'll drop maybe 250 rpms. Is this maybe a check valve problem or just replace my vacuum hose and see what happens. Idle is fine otherwise.
Help me Jesus!
[Modified by snoop_bealybob, 4:29 AM 11/1/2002]
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