95 ej2 1.5b7

edited April 4th

so I did my wacky exhaust port blocker, and it worked. No air, or atlesst very little, came out of the exhaust pipe/port

it all came out of the head, specifically the exhaust valve area for cyl #3.

doing the leak down test, it has about 10% leakage minus the broke exhaust valve. So I suppose I need seats, guides, and valves??

what brands should I consider and what retailer should I buy from?

 

It is in the FAQs. Read them before posting.

 

OP - Your tech threads will be closed if you fail to provide relevant car/engine/mods information in your 1st post.

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-civic-del-sol-1992-2000-1/rules-thread-titles-car-information-searching-trial-users-picture-posting-3002401/

 

Sorry, I added the car's info. I'm just gonna pull the fuel pump out if I dont see the fuse on the diagrams that ima look up for the missing fuses

how bout putting pistons 1-4 at TDC for the leak down test? Is there a good way to maintain the required PSI for the leak down test? I only have gauges on my air compressor.

 

Removing fuse 31 will disable both spark and fuel.

The 3rd picture shows TDC4.

 

Thanks Ron. Now atleast I can check if I should keep wasting time with this engine or let it blow up

 

Is 200 compression good?

 

Its actually 215 I tried them again, cranked em longer this time. My dead cylinder has no compression tho

 

Leak down test it.

 

Just looked in my tool box my leakdown tester is broken.

could this be bad rocker arms or something causing the valves to stick and pretending it has high compression?

 

Check whether AutoZone or other auto parts chain stores offer a free rental for the leak down tester.

 

I'm gonna do it the wrong way, leave 100psi in my compressor and hook it to my compression tester

 

Hopefully the valve cover gasket can be reused for the next week until my head set arrives. I guess at most I need only 2 valves tho which is good.

 

http://s1372.photobucket.com/user/fa...d211a.jpg.html
this is the best cylinder but they're all within 10psi

 

I'm thinking with the high compression, its probably a piston ring, not a valve problem like the p.o. Claimed

re-ring, re bearing the block if the head checks out? Are there any good rings for a 1.5 turbo?

or scrap it and b swap the car?

will be updated tomorrow when I find a leak down tester

 

Stop creating new threads. You've already had one moderator warn you. Just stop. Stick to your original thread.

 

What's the effective compression ratio for 225?

 

My last thread was "disconnect fuel" this thread is in light of completely different info. If you're not gonna contribute to the thread u can go away sir

 

Would it be possible to get this much compression from decking the **** out of the head or block?

 

The auto store employees thought I was weird for asking to put air into the engine. Ron can you merge this thread with my other one about this issue? The other title makes alot more sense now that I know the engine is modified. I asked some guys on d-series and they told me it makes perfect sense that a valve or two is shot.

"they put new pistons in with higher compression, didnt tune it, and burnt up a valve. Burnt valves aren't uncommon especially with poorly modified vehicles". It was something along those lines

 

If I take a piece of metal, a piece of rubber, and make an exhaust manifold leak-stopper, would this work to discount the exhaust manifold from a compression test and leak down test?
I could also use the sheet of metal to torque down a real exhaust manifold gasket. This surely would create an air tight seal.

if this works, it would be a cheap and effective way to discount the exhaust valves from the compression test so I could get a clearer idea of the compression from the piston rings.

I really don't wanna put money into this engine if the block its on its way out. I dont know who built it, what grade parts they used, how it was driven. I absolutely do not want to re-ring a 1.5, especially one I dont wanna keep for more than a few months. Especially one that has some after market pistons and I got no clue what brand they are.

 

The exhaust manifold has absolutely nothing to do with a compression test. The compression is in the cylinders, not the exhaust.

 

I think he's talking and thinking about a reverse leak down but through the exhaust manifold just to test the exhaust valves.

I really don't know how effective that would be.

I really don't understand how a parts store would not know what a leak down tester tool is..... I would think they would at least google it if they didn't have first hand knowledge. Then again, there are other marvels in this universe.

 

If that's what he's talking about, that's easily the most backasswards and complicated thing I've ever heard. Leakdown testing is easy. Just do it the right way, the first time.

 

No guys you misunderstand, cuz I'm an idiot and cant explain things right.

1. Leak down test

2. If leaks out of exhaust and not piston rings, seal off exhaust with a plate instead of a manifold. This should exclude the exhaust valves, and reveal any further leaks.

3. Compression test with the exhaust valves excluded from the results

if I get 210-225 like the other cylinders, the rings should be good.

now please try and poke holes in that, since I explained it better.