98 Prelude build thread
Part 1 of the orange peeled prelude (will be revised and edited when i have time)
Just got this prelude not even a month ago and i am full swing into building my first car.
I picked up a 98 prelude with 210,*** miles on the body for a fairly cheap price
I bought this car mainly because the body was in good shape, new tires, and some parts that i figure i could pawn off, jdm h22a block 2 h22a4 transmissions and other misc items.
The car was originally an automatic which was swapped for a manual and the paint looked like the skin of an orange, and was burning a ton of oil. but needless to say this car needed alot of tender love and care before it ended up crushed in a scrap yard.
On the way to get the car i was lucky enough to get pulled over by the PA state police and received a $170 fine for driving in the flow of traffic which delayed me to making it to the notary with the time i needed to look over the car better, because on my way down the guy selling the car decided to tell me at the last minute the notary was closing within the half hour of me arriving. At this point in the day i was already feeling a little iffy about this whole thing. But after a ride in it and knowing what my 96 accord with 222k has been through with me i figured lets give it a shot.
As weary as i was i jumped in the drivers seat and drove it 180 miles home, blowing smoke going up every hill and with an axle i found out later wasnt barely even attached so everytime i hit the gas the car was all jerky, got it half way home and it started to get dark which was the same time i found out the ugly halo headlights werent working, and i thought here we go already. Coming home in the dark with my headlights cutting in and out for 60 miles as it started to sprinkle, at this point i found out that the windshield wipers only worked on slow speed, and to top it off there wasnt a windshield washer fluid reservoir. I was already kicking myself in the *** a little bit but it just made me want to fix these problems even more because the look of the car and finally owning a honda with dohc's and vtec made me excited.
Part 2 Deconstruction and purchasing parts
As i got the car home and assessed all the situations and options i had i finally came to a conclusion.
I wanted a high performance motor built that was capable of 450+whp but as i thought about everything included in doing a build the proper way i decided my budget couldnt support the full weight of that so i purchased a full motor, tranny, and ecu from hmotorsonline. The 2001 accord Euro R jdm h22a with 42k miles will soon be going into my 98 prelude as the new powerplant. It was a sense of reassurance too knowing what exact parts and components will be in the car instead of someone else doing the work.
But with this purchase of the motor i have also ordered alot of other parts with the help of all you folks knowledge on here.
With my first and most exciting purchased i ordered a set of BC racing BR coilovers and to compliment those i went with all new control arms, upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends. I also ordered a ESP traction bar so I can keep this thing hooked up, i hope to do as much autocross as i can this summer.
But with the motor out of the way and ordered it was time to worry about the second most important thing about the car and thats the body.
The car looked like a Florida car when i got it, a Florida orange. The previous owner decided to paint the car himself and im glad it wasnt his day job because although he did a great job masking off the car, he wasnt too handy with a paint gun.
I pulled the fenders and bumper cover to take the old h22a4 out and at this point i know i needed new fenders, because the ones on the car were cheap re manufactured trash,
after ordering oem fenders from a salvage yard from jersey i got a new oem bumper cover, and too compliment the rest of the front end i got new headlights, turn signals and fog lights. Currently trying to get my hands on an oem lip kit. But also ripped out the shitty altezza tail lights and got a new set of oem style. Because STOCK just looks better.
I'm currently in the process of wet sanding the car now and i hope to get it painted shortly before the new motor gets installed. But with all this orange peel its beginning to be very time consuming but the hassle will be worth the reward.
Just got this prelude not even a month ago and i am full swing into building my first car.
I picked up a 98 prelude with 210,*** miles on the body for a fairly cheap price
I bought this car mainly because the body was in good shape, new tires, and some parts that i figure i could pawn off, jdm h22a block 2 h22a4 transmissions and other misc items.
The car was originally an automatic which was swapped for a manual and the paint looked like the skin of an orange, and was burning a ton of oil. but needless to say this car needed alot of tender love and care before it ended up crushed in a scrap yard.
On the way to get the car i was lucky enough to get pulled over by the PA state police and received a $170 fine for driving in the flow of traffic which delayed me to making it to the notary with the time i needed to look over the car better, because on my way down the guy selling the car decided to tell me at the last minute the notary was closing within the half hour of me arriving. At this point in the day i was already feeling a little iffy about this whole thing. But after a ride in it and knowing what my 96 accord with 222k has been through with me i figured lets give it a shot.
As weary as i was i jumped in the drivers seat and drove it 180 miles home, blowing smoke going up every hill and with an axle i found out later wasnt barely even attached so everytime i hit the gas the car was all jerky, got it half way home and it started to get dark which was the same time i found out the ugly halo headlights werent working, and i thought here we go already. Coming home in the dark with my headlights cutting in and out for 60 miles as it started to sprinkle, at this point i found out that the windshield wipers only worked on slow speed, and to top it off there wasnt a windshield washer fluid reservoir. I was already kicking myself in the *** a little bit but it just made me want to fix these problems even more because the look of the car and finally owning a honda with dohc's and vtec made me excited.
Part 2 Deconstruction and purchasing parts
As i got the car home and assessed all the situations and options i had i finally came to a conclusion.
I wanted a high performance motor built that was capable of 450+whp but as i thought about everything included in doing a build the proper way i decided my budget couldnt support the full weight of that so i purchased a full motor, tranny, and ecu from hmotorsonline. The 2001 accord Euro R jdm h22a with 42k miles will soon be going into my 98 prelude as the new powerplant. It was a sense of reassurance too knowing what exact parts and components will be in the car instead of someone else doing the work.
But with this purchase of the motor i have also ordered alot of other parts with the help of all you folks knowledge on here.
With my first and most exciting purchased i ordered a set of BC racing BR coilovers and to compliment those i went with all new control arms, upper and lower ball joints and inner and outer tie rod ends. I also ordered a ESP traction bar so I can keep this thing hooked up, i hope to do as much autocross as i can this summer.
But with the motor out of the way and ordered it was time to worry about the second most important thing about the car and thats the body.
The car looked like a Florida car when i got it, a Florida orange. The previous owner decided to paint the car himself and im glad it wasnt his day job because although he did a great job masking off the car, he wasnt too handy with a paint gun.
I pulled the fenders and bumper cover to take the old h22a4 out and at this point i know i needed new fenders, because the ones on the car were cheap re manufactured trash,
after ordering oem fenders from a salvage yard from jersey i got a new oem bumper cover, and too compliment the rest of the front end i got new headlights, turn signals and fog lights. Currently trying to get my hands on an oem lip kit. But also ripped out the shitty altezza tail lights and got a new set of oem style. Because STOCK just looks better.
I'm currently in the process of wet sanding the car now and i hope to get it painted shortly before the new motor gets installed. But with all this orange peel its beginning to be very time consuming but the hassle will be worth the reward.
Last edited by fordboy90; Mar 28, 2014 at 11:13 PM.
can't wait to see some pics!
I picked up a 93 sr for $700 with new paint early summer last year, a shitty job but the finish is really good. i found a parts 96 srv for $400.. it'll be a fun spring for us!
I picked up a 93 sr for $700 with new paint early summer last year, a shitty job but the finish is really good. i found a parts 96 srv for $400.. it'll be a fun spring for us!
I have the same exact swap in my 98 prelude. These euro-r swaps are awesome and its great to have the t2w4 lsd transmission. I am guessing the swap is still out of the car? If it is I would change the timing belt and crappy auto-tensioner for a Kaizenspeed manual tensioner that will make you feel confident over the oem auto-tensioners that are known to fail.
Also for ease of swap while you are changing the timing belt re-use your h22a4 engine harness, idle air control valve, fuel rail, lower timing gear, balance shaft gear and oil pump with the crank sensor, and finally the distributor. This will have your euro-r full obd2 compliant. I did it this way for my swap, so I could just have everything plug n play and it was worth the time and the effort. Plus I have to pass smog so that was another huge influence of me doing it this way.
And one last thing you will need is to place an order from Rosko Racing. You will need to order: an IACV adapter plate to run the h22a4 two wire IACV, a euro-r EGR cover plate, fuel rail adapter kit for stock style fuel rails and ask him to make you custom spacers so you can use your euro-r injectors, and a Kaizenspeed tensioner. Here is the link for his website https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...i?display=home
Also for ease of swap while you are changing the timing belt re-use your h22a4 engine harness, idle air control valve, fuel rail, lower timing gear, balance shaft gear and oil pump with the crank sensor, and finally the distributor. This will have your euro-r full obd2 compliant. I did it this way for my swap, so I could just have everything plug n play and it was worth the time and the effort. Plus I have to pass smog so that was another huge influence of me doing it this way.
And one last thing you will need is to place an order from Rosko Racing. You will need to order: an IACV adapter plate to run the h22a4 two wire IACV, a euro-r EGR cover plate, fuel rail adapter kit for stock style fuel rails and ask him to make you custom spacers so you can use your euro-r injectors, and a Kaizenspeed tensioner. Here is the link for his website https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...i?display=home
Last edited by thirsk66; Mar 29, 2014 at 11:24 PM.
I have the same exact swap in my 98 prelude. These euro-r swaps are awesome and its great to have the t2w4 lsd transmission. I am guessing the swap is still out of the car? If it is I would change the timing belt and crappy auto-tensioner for a Kaizenspeed manual tensioner that will make you feel confident over the oem auto-tensioners that are known to fail.
Also for ease of swap while you are changing the timing belt re-use your h22a4 engine harness, idle air control valve, fuel rail, lower timing gear, balance shaft gear and oil pump with the crank sensor, and finally the distributor. This will have your euro-r full obd2 compliant. I did it this way for my swap, so I could just have everything plug n play and it was worth the time and the effort. Plus I have to pass smog so that was another huge influence of me doing it this way.
And one last thing you will need is to place an order from Rosko Racing. You will need to order: an IACV adapter plate to run the h22a4 two wire IACV, a euro-r EGR cover plate, fuel rail adapter kit for stock style fuel rails and ask him to make you custom spacers so you can use your euro-r injectors, and a Kaizenspeed tensioner. Here is the link for his website https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...i?display=home
Also for ease of swap while you are changing the timing belt re-use your h22a4 engine harness, idle air control valve, fuel rail, lower timing gear, balance shaft gear and oil pump with the crank sensor, and finally the distributor. This will have your euro-r full obd2 compliant. I did it this way for my swap, so I could just have everything plug n play and it was worth the time and the effort. Plus I have to pass smog so that was another huge influence of me doing it this way.
And one last thing you will need is to place an order from Rosko Racing. You will need to order: an IACV adapter plate to run the h22a4 two wire IACV, a euro-r EGR cover plate, fuel rail adapter kit for stock style fuel rails and ask him to make you custom spacers so you can use your euro-r injectors, and a Kaizenspeed tensioner. Here is the link for his website https://www.roskoracing.com/cgi-bin/...i?display=home
I gave you all the information you needed to have a plug-n-play setup in your 98 prelude. I guess you are wanting to run the euro-r in its original JDM form that it came to you in? Meaning keep the euro-r: fuel rail, distributor, lower timing belt drive pulley and balance shaft pulley, run the 3 wire IACV, and EGR valve. If that is the route you want to take then below I listed the items you would need.
The harnesses you need from Rywire is an obd2a-obd2b ecu jumper harness, and OBD2 USDM PRELUDE TO OBD2 DISTRIBUTOR ADAPTER both are found right here: http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd2a-...ness-p-20.html
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd2-u...pter-p-72.html
Also in this thread is information about the euro-r swap, the Rywire ecu harness and how it needs to be modified to make your PCD euro-r ecu work in your Prelude as well as how to wire up the 3 wire IACV and EGR valve: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/euro-r-h22a-pcd-install-3138261/
Here are pictures of my modified Rywire harness and PCD ecu:



The harnesses you need from Rywire is an obd2a-obd2b ecu jumper harness, and OBD2 USDM PRELUDE TO OBD2 DISTRIBUTOR ADAPTER both are found right here: http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd2a-...ness-p-20.html
http://www.rywire.com/catalog/obd2-u...pter-p-72.html
Also in this thread is information about the euro-r swap, the Rywire ecu harness and how it needs to be modified to make your PCD euro-r ecu work in your Prelude as well as how to wire up the 3 wire IACV and EGR valve: https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/euro-r-h22a-pcd-install-3138261/
Here are pictures of my modified Rywire harness and PCD ecu:



Last edited by thirsk66; Mar 31, 2014 at 06:09 PM.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post



