thericepatch

So I am finishing up this install, and have had to put so many hours into the research and troubleshooting that I wanted to save some time for the other guys that want to do this. It is not a cheap undertaking, but for a stock motor it puts it down! I have not quite finished yet, but it is up and running so I wanted to chronicle it while it is fresh.

The primary reason for this thread is to show the steps needed to run the PCD ecu. You can swap a euro r straight into your lude and put the a4 intake on it if you don't want to go through the hassle, but you loose much of your potential power gains. It is more difficult to run the PCD for a usdm motor because it is set up for a 3 wire IACV and the euro r injectors. For much of the work, you can simplify by purchasing an obd2a to obd2b conversion harness, but it will need to have a couple of "y" connections clipped. I had an old junk computer and the plugs needed so I made my own. To do that I have attached the conversion harness pinout that I created, it is in pdf so you just have to download it. This is what is running the car right now, I may edit it later if needed. It is specifically for using a PCD on a Euro r in a BB6 (97-01) Prelude but may work in other applications. I'm sure that there are a few extra pins (ex IAB), but I wanted to be sure I covered everything. Credit and props to katman and ff-squad for the obd2a and obd2b pinout diagrams (attached below), I couldn't have done this without them. For anyone that is not interested in messing with the conversion harness but wants to get their swap running, you can customize a purchased harness (such as the Rywire Thirsk66 mentions later in the thread). Rywire part number is ecu-obd2a-obd2b at rywire.com and the wires that need to be cut to run this harness are: clip A15 and A19 on the OBD2B side (male plugs) and clip D13 on the OBD2A side (female plugs).
There are a few other things that have to be done as well for the full swap to operate. The 3 wire IACV needs to be wired by unpinning the two wires from the 2 wire connector and repin/splice them into the 3 wire as pictured below, then wiring the third wire (left, black) to ground. Finished wiring should be from left to right: black-ground, yellow/black-yellow/black (runs to factory ecu plug A11, PCD B1), black/blue-black/blue (runs to factory ecu plug A12, PCD B23). Completely disregard any 3 wire conventional usdm 4 cylinder swap info because it will just confuse you. This one is wired the same as a V6 accord IACV. Took some trial and error to figure it out, but hopefully this will save others the time and hassle.

The egr needs to be addressed as well, as the car has vacuum but the motor has electronic valve, so the plugs are different. I tried just using the one off the car and running vacuum to the solenoid like the A4 setup. I used a vacuum T to a nipple on the intake located just below the IACV (didn't even see it until I pulled the IACV off for cleaning) to feed the egr and cruise control actuator. This setup seemed to work, but still occasionally threw a code, whether it was the egr valve or not I don't know for sure, so I ran the wiring for the Euro r egr valve. This is actually fairly simple if you have the harness for the euro r to get the plug off of because the wire colors match what is on the car. You start by unpinning or cutting and splicing the three wires at the A4 egr plug into the top set of pins, then the other two need to be run to the red and black at the solenoid on the drivers side strut tower that the vacuum line runs to from the a4 egr. The cruise control works fine when just set up on the vacuum port by the IACV. Rosko does refer to relocating the vacuum ports, but I did not have any issue with this, the booster line reached just fine to the top, and the emission line I ran through the valley under the throttle cable bracket, which also worked great as is.

In order to use the euro r injectors you have to either purchase a special fuel rail, rail adapter, or mod the fuel line to reach the passenger side of the rail. I chose the latter, took my stock usdm line to a local parts store that does hydraulic line repair and asked them to replace the rubber with an 18" piece. Worked like a champ, only cost $30, and was usable on my usdm until I had a chance to finish wiring my jumper harness.

Also a note for anyone wanting to run a euro r intake on a euro r head and have it setup like it was in japan, be aware you cannot get the intake gasket ANYWHERE, I made my own from gasket material. If you don't care if you use the cold air ports designed in this manifold, or if you are using the 2 wire IACV with usdm ecu you can tap and plug them (see Modifying an H22 Euro-R intake manifold (Part 1) | Rosko Racing Tech Blog) and use a usdm gasket. For those using this manifold on a H22A4 or A1, there are other measures that rosko covers in the previously refered to tech blog. These ports are designed to be fed by the 3 wire IACV to assist with fuel spray during cold start.

Just an update, I had a problem when I got it all together that one of the injectors was not working at all. Pulled it out and was not looking forward to having to replace it since I have not been able to locate one at all. I was hoping that it was just a problem from the motor being pressure washed with the fuel line open (by the motor seller >:#) as evidenced in the fuel rail that I had to clean. Found out that the local NAPA does rebuild injectors and has an ultrasonic bath, so I ran it to them. They said it wasn't pulsing so the coil might be bad, but it could just be jammed so they would soak it and see. In the end it came out working, so, much cudos to the guys at NAPA if you have a problem, check around you might get lucky.
With the injector back in, this thing pulls like mad and surges through vtec rather than jump like it did with the A4 intake. It also runs much higher rpms with no problem. Rev limiter hits at 8k, and it pulls all the way! Absolutely worth the time and work to do the full euro r ecu and intake on the euro r motor!

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

What exactly are you using from the h22a4 engine and the euro-r?
I am using the h22a4 injectors, fuel rail, EGR, iacv, distributor, and oil pump with crank position sensor.
As for the euro-r everything is there except the h22a4 parts installed on it.
I tried your wiring instructions for the 3 wire euro-r iacv and the R injectors but my car ran like crap and just ended up idling rough and back firing, but this was with only light pressure holding down the injectors. They weren't fully bolted in securely as I didn't want to ruin my Rosko racing fuel rail adapter kit. I also ran it with the h22a4 injectors and it ended up doing the same thing. The PCD ecu throws a code for which one exactly I have no clue, since its a JDM ecu. I am wondering what is making your car run like a champ with that ecu and iacv, and what makes mine run like complete junk.
I just talked with Shawn from Rosko Racing and he is going to be sending me some shorter spacers and bolts so I can try/run the euro-r injectors securely. I hope this time it will run better.

thericepatch

The only things I am running from the A4 are the distributor, egr, and oil pump. Injectors, iac, are all euro r. If i had done the original install of this motor, I would have just used the euro r dizzy and oil pump and left the A4 parts with that motor, but I have no reason to swap them back now. The codes can be read just like a usdm ecu, using a code reader or jumper. I used a code reader on mine which helped a lot with the iac wiring. I did edit that wiring after the initial write up, so be sure your using my current wiring setup. If you can check what code it is throwing I could help you a lot more.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I cant check the codes trust me I have tried twice with the same old code it was throwing before which was 21 the vtec code. I have even gone to great length by unplugging the egr valve and map sensor and the jdm ecu still throws a code 21. So i have no idea which code its really throwing. So we are using the same stuff. I will try it with your new wiring writeup

thericepatch

I know thirsk mentioned this on the thread on the prelude forum, so I wanted to mention it here for others information. When using the 3 wire iac, it has a vacuum port on the bottom of the valve that is designed to allow airflow to the cold start ports in the manifold when used with the euro r injectors. If you are using the complete euro r setup, this needs to have a hose run to the vacuum port under the runners on the intake on the flange that bolts to the head. If either of these ports is open you will have a massive vacuum leak and the engine will obviously not perform as designed to. If not using either of these components you will need to cap off the other to prevent vacuum loss as well.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

I will be trying out the new spacers so I can use the euro-r injectors and rewire the three wire iacv and see what kind of results I get... I am praying this works well since you thericepatch have gotten great results with the same identical setup as me.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

So I tried the new spacers/bolts that Shawn from Rosko's Racing sent me and the euro-r injectors fit and work great. I rewired the 3 wire euro-r iacv and yet my car still runs like it is bogging down and wont rev past 3k rpm. I am almost ready to give up on this euro-r ecu idea, but my car does only throw one CEL code. And its the same p1253 Vtec system malfunction. I wouldn't know how to fix this code so right now I feel like I am at a loss. I am a bit mad because you have the same identical setup as I do with the same engine harness and whatnot and yet your car runs great and is drive-able. I have no idea what to do next.

holmesnmanny

With the car throwing the code 21 it will run in limp mode. It will probably run in limp mode with that p1253 code too.

It's obvious there is an issue with the vtec wiring. You should start from scratch and retrace all the wiring from the vtec solenoid and vtec pressure switch back the appropriate pins at the ecu connector by checking for continuity. This could also be caused by a dented oil pan/pick up.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Thanks holmesnmanny for the reply. Yes I will have to trace the vtec wiring and see if everything's connected properly. Trust me I don't have a dented oil pan or pickup I have checked and we are good to go there.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Just rewired the euro-r 3 wire iacv and cleared the code 21 for vtec system malfunction (loose wire). Now I have this video to show, notice how to needle on the RPM tach jumps, and I am still in limp mode here. I have no idea how others got this ecu to work with this engine setup. Need some ideas or help on what it could be now. Update here's another video I found out if I let it warm up the car will rev past the normal 3k rpm. The only thing now is I think the euro iacv is bad, becasue it does that fast up and down idle. So I will seek a replacement asap. Take a look and tell me what you think.

holmesnmanny

keep us updated what happens after you swap out that iacv

cd5h22a25

Can u tell mewhere exactly is tht vaccum port under the intake cuz i have same problem is car like dies after 2500 rpm im doin full euro r swap beside EGR

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Will do, I just ordered one so it should be here in about a week. I am thinking that's what is causing my problems, since everything else on my engine setup is new and in good health.

As for the guy asking where the vacuum line plugs into. It runs from the iacv and plugs into the back of the intake manifold its more so on the passenger side of engine. Here's a picture of it this is the best I could find, you get the idea its outlined in RED.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well just installed the other euro-r iacv I bought, and the car runs good when warmed up. On the other hand it bogs like crazy on cold start-ups and just acts like its in limp mode. I really have no clue or idea why it does this. Please if you have any suggestions on what it could be that would help out a lot. Also I noticed that the guy who created this thread never complained about bogging on cold starts or any of the bad symptoms I have had. I am wondering how people are having better luck with this then I am.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Here's another update video I noticed the car only runs if I let it warm up on its own, but while it warms up the tach/rpm does jump around a bit I still have no idea why it does this. Also when I have it to operating temp, the car idles great in neutral it revs through the rpm range just fine, but when under a load/ in gear the damn thing goes back to bogging like its held back in limp mode. Please help if you know why it does this I really want to run this ecu in my car as I am so close to having it work properly.

thericepatch

Cd5.... If you are looking for the vacuum port I referred to that I used for the egr and cruise control, I attached a photo that shows it clearer next to the iacv ports. If you are asking about the ports for the vacuum for the cold start, thirsk's pic is acurate about the iacv side, however the other side is on the under side of the intake manifold, not the block, though the location in his pic is roughly acurate.

holmesnmanny

thirsk, I'm not seeing the tach do anything except raise when you blip the throttle..or am i missing it ?

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yeah holmesnmanny you are right the tach doesn't jump around in the video. The cold start conditions where the needle jumps is in the other video posted earlier in this thread. It only jumps when cold then when at operating temp it seems to stay steady. The only thing you see in the last video is the car idling good and then I show you what its like when the car is in gear and has the bogging symptoms. Also this leads me to believe that its an ecu/jumper harness issue at this point since it isn't normal for any h22 to bog down while driving so bad it barely lets you get past 25 mph or upon start-up like I get.

holmesnmanny

Could it have something to do with your egr setup. You mentioned you're using the a4 egr but the pcd uses a different style egr. Can you elaborate. I also think something is wrong with the iacv setup since you said the issue stops after the car is warmed up, which could indicate it is(at that time) now bypassing the cold start function of the iacv.

It may be necessary to do a complete pin to pin check to see if something is hooked up wrong or pins could be swapped somewhere. Tedious, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

I recall pcd ecu's have a difference somewhere in the pin outs in relation to p13's

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Yes the euro r egr valve is different then the A4 but that shouldn't be what is making me bog badly on cold starts and when I try to drive it around the block. The iacv is wired up correctly and I have no idea if the cold start function of that valve is working properly. I will definitely look into all the pins and see if there are any differences between the two. I am also getting another ecu jumper harness to try out and go from there. I really think it should be fixed after this since thericepatch who started this thread has made it work with the same identical swap as I have.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Originally Posted by holmesnmanny:
Could it have something to do with your egr setup. You mentioned you're using the a4 egr but the pcd uses a different style egr. Can you elaborate. I also think something is wrong with the iacv setup since you said the issue stops after the car is warmed up, which could indicate it is(at that time) now bypassing the cold start function of the iacv.

It may be necessary to do a complete pin to pin check to see if something is hooked up wrong or pins could be swapped somewhere. Tedious, but you gotta do what you gotta do.

I recall pcd ecu's have a difference somewhere in the pin outs in relation to p13's[/QU

When your right your right, thanks for saying something. I checked the pins on my rywire obd2a-obd2b jumper harness with that of thericepatch's custom conversion harness he made for this euro-r swap and most of them were right, but some were off and not in the right pin. So I am sending Josh (thericepatch) my harness to redo the wires a bit/ look it over and get this engine running right.

thericepatch

Just got done putting a Fidanza aluminum flywheel and a stage one kevlar clutch in this thing and it revs up like mad now! The car already had a full oversized exhaust, dc header, and cold air intake on it so we are bumping it to the next level.
Having it in the shop also allowed me to troubleshoot and fix the jumper harness that thirsk was having issues with, so if any of you are using an aftermarket OBD2A-B jumper harness there are a couple of Y junctions so it will fit multiple applications. I just cut the unneeded leg of each Y. Ran like a champ. Much luck to you thirsk, it is on its way back to ya.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Thank you a million times over for fixing my jumper harness you are the man. Also I will be adding that I will be now getting a new clutch and lightweight flywheel because of your recommendation and see how well it performs. Looking forward to having my car run well on the factory ecu.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Thank you so much Josh aka thericepatch for fixing my jumper harness. I installed the harness and the car runs perfect now without issue. I am super stoked that this is fixed and I can run the PCD ecu in my prelude. All I have to do now is enjoy the damn car without messing around with anything else.

thirsk66

iTrader: (2)

Well I was going to ask you Josh if when you swapped in my harness on your prelude with it running, did you take it out for a drive, or just let it run in your garage? Only reason I am asking is because I finally got the chance to test drive my car with the modified harness and the PCD ecu and there is some hesitation between 2k rpm and 3k rpm (euro-r's seem to be known to have hesitation issues), and then it seems to come back to life and take off. I also read that you have the euro-r EGR installed and wired on your setup? I am thinking that's my issue right there is the EGR valve needs to be changed from the old A4 to the euro one.