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I bought this cia and racing muffler from this older guy on cl who's wife told him to grow up I got both for $50 can anyone identify a brand or anything it has the metal sleeve over the cone which I can't find anywhere

This is my first post on here I've gotten a lot if info from these forums but never been a member of one
Thanks

 

looks like a generic AEM intake off of ebay...

 

It looks like a basic hot air intake. Not a cold air.

 

What does that mean? Just that it pulls out of the engine bay?

 

lol hot air intake is so funny that never gets old hearing it

it means its actually worse than an oem filter cause it pulls in hot engine air

either get an oem setup from the junkyard or get a real cai

 

I am still waiting for someone to prove that they are hot air intakes when the car is in motion. I have lots of data showing that a SRI or hot intake is only 1-2 degrees warmer than ambient temps while the car is in motion.

IMO a long *** CAI is a complete waste of time and money. the SRI is more than good enough for what little ether of these things actually do anyway. Only time one of these longer cold air intakes actually introduce colder air than a SRI is while sitting at a stop sign for 10 minutes or while your car is at idle.

 

Haha idk I figured for $50 for the 2 I'd try it out the understanding of it for me was that the oem was restricting the air flow and that the cai was allowing it to pull in more air it wanted when I put it on I could notice a increase in acceleration right away but now after a couple weeks it's seems weaker then when I put it on i like the sound tho and it adds an cool look to the engine bay

 

It looks a lot weirder than any intake I have seen. At least filter wise. I'm sure the car sounds more aggressive either way, and for $50 it doesn't seem too bad. It would look cool if you really kept the engine bay as shiny as the intake is right now.

 

Need to hook up the other side of the PCV system. (blue hose to corner of VC.)

As for performance, meh. If you get the intake to actually suck in hot air during normal driving and cruise it can improve your MPGs slightly due to reduced pumping losses.
Hot air is less dense than cold air, so you will need more of it to fill the cylinders. This requires the throttle to be opened more than normal for a given engine speed. Engine has less pumping work to do, thus power is conserved and MPGs increase.

Muffler, it may or may not improve flow. But the rest of the exhaust is still the same diameter so, meh. It will probably just make your exhaust loud.

 

just put the oem back and pick up a k&n drop in filter ... gonna be better than that hai

 

I hooked everything up after I just took a pic to show people what it looked like inside before I was done installing I have both on right now and it pulls higher into 2nd now shifts at 6xxx Rpms and pulls all through until 4th shift into 4th loses all power so if I'm racing or something I put it into d3 I can even squeal the tire sometimes if I push it down at the right time do you guys think the aftermarket piping is worth it to add on? What other preformance upgrades will do anything besides turbo (to expensive and don't think my accord could handle it )

 

IMO the biggest improvement you can do to the Accord for better acceleration is to replace the Accord transmission with one of a Prelude(MT) or Ody/Prelude(AT). The lower gear ratios allow for better acceleration, but at the cost of some MPGs at cruise.

It is also why boosting is preferred with the Accord trans/F22. Have the added power of boost, and still maintain mileage off boost at cruise.

 

"all power so if I'm racing or something I put it into d3 I can even squeal the tire". LOL that car is so for from a race car it's stupid. LOL. Pack it up and go home. FAIL

 

So there really no way to boost under a grand

 

Did I ever say it was a race car? Lol no I'm just talking about messing around my friends with Saturns or similar cars obviously it's not a fast car it doesn't even have the vtec or the v6 just trying to make my daily driver more fun to drive my intention was never to make it a "race car" because it is and always will be a 99 accord

 

For $1k? Not anywhere near reliably if you're asking these questions...

Tuning my S2000 was $400 on its own. Not for the hardware (ECU, FI, etc) but for the actual tuning session.

You're far better off doing as much maintenance as you can on the car and just enjoy it.

 

Nope. AFTER everything is assembled and trouble free you will still need to have the car properly tuned on a dyno.
A decent dynotune with a tech who knows what they are doing will probably cost you ~$500. Don't be fooled into thinking that a ~$80 dynorun is a tuning session. It is not. At best it will take you most of the day, at worst you will be told you need to either repair/replace/upgrade a component to continue tuning.

 

Nough said!

 

That's what I thought and there's no point to spend that much money on my car since that would probably be equal to or more then the true value of the car and it would probably blow my motor up after a week

 

You said you are racing here "pulls all through until 4th shift into 4th loses all power so if I'm racing or something I put it into d3 I can even squeal the tire sometimes". It's a farking Honda. Not a race car.

 

under a grand?
maybe a used header and better exhaust with slightly bigger piping

 

Yah but just messing around with my friends not like seriously obviously I'm not going to beat any1 with any type of horsepower at all but if I pull up next to one of my buddy's we take off and race eachother just at the light messing around I'm 17 idk why you guys think racing means I need a turboed suby or something just to mess around with my friends? any car goes fast it's just a matter of how quick yah it's a Honda and te 0-60 is probably like 10 seconds but it's still fun to take off at lights and make the tires squeal

 

So you think I should go with full larger piping 2.5-3" ? Is it gonna be worth the cost?

 

i believe stock piping is 2.25, u can go to 2.5, dont go 3".
N/A engines need smaller piping when it comes to the engine to build pressure. if u were planning on boost then a 3" is ideal for the turbo to spool and breathe better.
u can google search for kteller for piping unless u plan on getting a kit. magnaflow makes a nice kit. u can also go with a ws2 axle back.
also consider a dc 4-2-1 header.

 

Alright cool thanks I'll look into those