new suspension questions
Hello
I'm thinking about getting 400 gc sleeves with koni yellows and extended top hats. I went to a pretty big local shop for alignment pricing and they said I'd have to get adjustable uca for proper alignment. Then I searched the forums and it's either you don't need them or you have to have them how can you tell? My needs are daily driver looking for good control and autox and drag couple times a year. Not sure which way to go. Input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
I'm thinking about getting 400 gc sleeves with koni yellows and extended top hats. I went to a pretty big local shop for alignment pricing and they said I'd have to get adjustable uca for proper alignment. Then I searched the forums and it's either you don't need them or you have to have them how can you tell? My needs are daily driver looking for good control and autox and drag couple times a year. Not sure which way to go. Input would be appreciated.
Thanks
Chris
In before argument ensues.
Do you need one? Technically no. But would you want one? Quite possibly. You can get an alignment done without a camber kit, but they won't be able to adjust camber at all, just correct for toe. Toe is generally what will wear your tires out the fastest so as far as eating through tires you should be OK without one.
However if you want optimal performance for autox and drag and whatnot then you'll probably want one, since if you don't get one then you'll be just running whatever camber values you end up with after lowering. The rears you can 'cheat' by using longer bolts on the stock upper arms and putting washers behind it to straighten out your camber. The front you're stuck without adjustable arms.
Do you need one? Technically no. But would you want one? Quite possibly. You can get an alignment done without a camber kit, but they won't be able to adjust camber at all, just correct for toe. Toe is generally what will wear your tires out the fastest so as far as eating through tires you should be OK without one.
However if you want optimal performance for autox and drag and whatnot then you'll probably want one, since if you don't get one then you'll be just running whatever camber values you end up with after lowering. The rears you can 'cheat' by using longer bolts on the stock upper arms and putting washers behind it to straighten out your camber. The front you're stuck without adjustable arms.
I think 'proper' is a relative term. To get back to completely stock, you might need adjustable UCA depending on how low/what product you go with. I don't think it would hurt, but I have seen plenty get by without them.
Why does anyone think that the "proper" alignment settings for a car that has changed spring rates, ride height, camber curves, toe curves, and roll center heights is still the factory recommended alignment settings?
OP, what car are we talking about here?
Aside from that, you want a lot of negative camber for auto-x (tire, spring rate, ride height, etc... depending). You want 0° camber on the drive wheels under launch squat for drag. If you get a camber kit, and want to maximize the car's potential with it (since, you know, you've already paid for it), you're going to be getting a lot of alignments, and will need to find a shop that will align the car outside of the factory recommended values.
Or you can skip the hassle and accept whatever camber you end up with after lowering, use it that way for some time, and then decide if it's holding you back.
OP, what car are we talking about here?
Aside from that, you want a lot of negative camber for auto-x (tire, spring rate, ride height, etc... depending). You want 0° camber on the drive wheels under launch squat for drag. If you get a camber kit, and want to maximize the car's potential with it (since, you know, you've already paid for it), you're going to be getting a lot of alignments, and will need to find a shop that will align the car outside of the factory recommended values.
Or you can skip the hassle and accept whatever camber you end up with after lowering, use it that way for some time, and then decide if it's holding you back.
Thanks for reply. I'm having hard time deciding. Guess I wanted all three lol. Guess daily, auto x, and drag are not all options. Think I'll take your advice and install get ride height and wheels on it. Then get toe adjusted and see how it goes.
It's a 98 civic coupe.
I didn't want to go super low just wanted stiffer suspension as mine is shot. Also have master bushing set to put in.
It's a 98 civic coupe.
I didn't want to go super low just wanted stiffer suspension as mine is shot. Also have master bushing set to put in.
Thanks for reply. I'm having hard time deciding. Guess I wanted all three lol. Guess daily, auto x, and drag are not all options. Think I'll take your advice and install get ride height and wheels on it. Then get toe adjusted and see how it goes.
It's a 98 civic coupe.
I didn't want to go super low just wanted stiffer suspension as mine is shot. Also have master bushing set to put in.
It's a 98 civic coupe.
I didn't want to go super low just wanted stiffer suspension as mine is shot. Also have master bushing set to put in.
Suggested because of how much rear negative camber those cars gain from lowering.
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Racerage1
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
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May 10, 2003 05:17 PM



