how do i adjust the air fuel mixture (if that could cause it) or is there a valve that has gone bad that allows it to run rich?
the car has had an engine swap from a 2.2 to a 2.0

 

no one eh?

 

air fuel mixtures are nonadjustable manually on fuel injected cars

could be a bad oxygen sensor or exhaust leak

 

If you have your emissions readout from the failed smog test we will be able to inform you better of where to look.

Post all the gases tested/on the readout.

 

Just drill holes in the exhaust in a spot that isn't obviously visible, should drop your numbers a bit










Lol, I kid.

 

 

I would if i could but since i dont meet the requirements of this high security NSA CIA web site I cant. really? its a freakin forum not some national security web site. my son just bought a honda and i have a few questions THATS IT! jeeze. I should be able to take a pic of the report and post it.

 

a posting i will go a posting i will go high ho da merio a postin i will go. hope yall see the humor

 

what ecu you running. you have a swapped car. we need more info
faulty readings at 02 sensors can cause that.
misfires can cause that.
this isn't the cia or nsa. the more info we can get from you the better we can help you. jeez

 

and we need your social security number as well

 

would love to show a pic of the reading but i havent passed the super secret, double probation period LOL and my ssn is !(%&@#_#&%&%)# lol

i still cant post attaachments

 

lol. click the little reply button not the quick reply box. once your on that page scroll down and click on manage attachments. the go back up to the reply box, click the little paperclip and then select the image. hope that helped

 

lol

 

ok ill try thanks for the help

 

well at least now its telling me i have exceeded the post requirements and have finaly passed the golden member probation period and austin powers is waiting an hour to release me to have "lazers" on wener dogs to rule the world LOLOL

will post the pic of the read ut as soon as im released LOL....thanks again for your help man

 

no problem. there are very knowledgeable guys on here that im sure will pitch in.

 

Or you could just list off the gas readout from the report, no need for the actual copy of the readout, just the information on PPM and % of gases.

The delay in allowing you to post pics and start threads is to reduce spam posts and other nuisance posts. Lots of newbs will post commonly asked questions that can be readily answered by the Accord FAQ at the top of the page.

 

YAY! i got out of jail lol

here is the pic of the report, and thanks for waiting through my sarcasm with patience.

 

oh i see, now that im out yall give me the silent treatment eh lol would be sweet if someone can answer this today, i have hte day off and can work on this thing. off to pick n pull for my other sons car be back in about an hour or so.

 

Have you tried to use some carburator cleaner and spray the exhaust hoses down. If you have an exhaust leak the idle shoud go up or down dpending on where it is. This may help. Clean your IAC and FIV also. Poor mans solutions..lol

 

CO% indicates that you are running rich.
HC will be high if the car is rich or lean.

Check your ignition system, make sure your spark plugs are correctly gapped, and that they are not worn. If your ignition is worn replace.
If you do not know the history of the O2, replace your O2 sensor. They become lazy over time. If the ignition components are worn, the O2 is also most likely worn. Only use Denso, Delco/Delphi, NTK/NGK for O2 sensors.

Check your air filter is not clogged, or for any impedance to air flow.

Change your oil and oil filter.

Check your fuel pressure.

 

for a poor man, will try it, was going to anyway.
anyone else?

didnt see your post mike, wow, lots to do, is there a diagram as to where all these components are? perhaps a site or something with them on it?

thanks for the help

 

Go to RockAuto to order any parts you need, prices will be ~30-70% cheaper than your local parts shop.
For 5% OFF use discount code 2008630117811653 good til 4/13/14.

 

how do i check the ignition components?
i took off the IACV and it was NASTY dirty, once i did that the idle went way down, is that normal? when we rev it up just a bit and let off the idle goes so far down it almost stalls but then goes back up to about 750rpm.

so the IACV controls the idle right? is there any adjustment that can be made manually to make it idle a little higher?

 

Pull the spark plug wires, check their resistance.
Verify no oil leaking into the spark plug wells.(plugs wires will be covered in oil)
Pull the spark plugs, check for proper gap and wear. If the plug electrodes are worn/rounded off this will inhibit spark jump, replace.
Pull off the distributor cap. Verify the terminals on the underside are clean of corrosion and dirt. Aluminum terminals get a yellow dried snot corrosion on them, this can be remove by gently scratching and greatly improves idle quality. Wipe the inside of the cap clean of any dirty.
Verify the rotor is clean and corrosion free.
If the IACV was stuck partially open then yes. If the IACV cannot close fully excess air will enter the engine at idle and you will have a higher than normal idle at normal operating temperature.
So I re-read your initial post...
When you changed the engine, did you also use the ECU for the 2.0 or are you still using the 2.2 ECU?
If you are still using the 2.2 ECU the idle dashpot settings and fuel trim will be basing off a 2.2. With the dashpot programing expecting a larger 95mm stroke of the 2.2, the idle reduction induced by the ECU may be too aggressive for the shorter stroke of the 2.0 due to less inertia in the rotating assembly.

If you did use the ECU for the 2.0, then I would look into the ignition system. Verify all components are in correct working order, and that the base ignition timing is set correctly as well.

Idle speed is controlled by the ECU via the IACV. If the IACV is working correctly and the car is tuned up, and the engine is in correct working order, ignition timing, fuel pressure, timing belt, tps, compression, and no leaks in the intake manifold gaskets. Then you should never have to touch the throttle body idle setting. It is preset to allow a given amount of air to bypass the blade. The ECU expects this given amount, and is why it should never be adjusted to 'fix' an idling issue. As it has to computer this given volume while adjusting the IACV as well as spark and fuel timing. If it does come down to adjusting the idle stop screw, remember to recheck and adjust(if necessary) the TPS.