I'm having some issues getting my car to start up and idle. I have hondata plugged in and am running just a stock JDM p72 map and uploaded for the bigger injectors to compensate.

I got the motor to turn over and idle, but it was idling around 2k rpms. The thermal skunk2 throttle body gasket I had was not covering the port on the Fast Idle Valve. HUGE vacuum leak, so I fixed the leak and made my own gasket. Ever since I fixed the leak, it will not start up and run. I have plenty of fuel and I checked for spark. Everything is new besides the wiring. All grounds are attached. The motor turns over and will start with starting fluid for a second, but die right back off.

I'm throwing a code for o2 sensor, which I do not have connected at this time.

I have not timed the ignition yet since I can not get it to run, so the distributor is just set in the middle.

1996 Honda Civic CX hatchback

obd2(b)? engine harness

obd2b to obd1 jumper to a p28 w/hondata s300v2

I wired in obd1 connectors for injectors, distributor, and alternator.

MOTOR: obd1 B18c1 freshly rebuilt, ACL WPC treated bearings, ITR cams, STR adjustable cam gears, Inline4 headgasket, ARP headstuds, ARP rod bolts, ITR pistons w/WPC treated wrist pins, NGK plugs, NGK wireset, New obd1 distributor, CTR N1 crank pulley, Gates racing timing belt, rebuilt oil pump w/WPC treated gears, RMF rep header, Magnaflow 2.5in cat to 3in exhaust w/vibrant muffler, edelbrock Victor-x Intake manifold, and edelbrock performer-x 66mm throttle body.

FUEL: 370cc injectors, aeromotive FPR, checkerdsports FPR gauge, AEM fuel rail, -6 AN fittings and line from rail to pump, and deatschwerks dw200 pump.


ANYONE HAVE ANY IDEAS AS TO WHY IT WILL NOT START AND IDLE ON ITS OWN.


Here is video of before I fixed the vacuum leak and adjusted for the injectors.

 

If your engine was starting before with the vacuum leak and now not, then you must check the throttle plate stop screw, maybe it's to close to maintain the idle.

Try this first!!

 

I'll mess with it, but I can get it to start up and hit the throttle and it still won't idle up. It will just die.

 

Given you running a base map and change the mix by fixing the leak, do you try to hook up your laptop and trim or add fuel in low cam at idle.

What are the given AFR's per hondata at idle? Do you double check that when you repair the throttle gasket, the MAP and TPS plugs are not switched?

 

I reloaded the basemap after fixing the gasket. I can not get it to idle to adjust anything and also I am still learning Hondata. Want to get it running descent to take it to Humble Performance for a tune and let a professional handle it lol. The map and TPS are not switched.

 

Well, at this point maybe isn't what you want to hear, but if the car was idling before fixing the vacuum leak and nothing else was touched.

Then is time to your tuner get in the play!! Tow the car to him or call him for advise and a new basemap for your set up.

 

I may do that. lol

 

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Could having an OBD2b engine harness and an OBD2a dash harness be the cause of some issues?

Went over all my wiring and plugs last night and made sure the obd2b harness was wired up correctly to the obd1 engine.
I checked for fuel and pulled the supply line from the rail and turned the key. Filled up a 16.9 oz water bottle in a few seconds, so I know I'm good there. It will start with starting fluid, but not for more then a second.

I am only throwing an o2 code. Was throwing ckp and iat, but fixed that.

 

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Yes, you have to run the same harnesses. You will get all kinds of issues mix and matching them. Get an OBD2A engine harness and then see what issues you have.

 

You gotta take pics of the ecu plugs and point out which one is from the engine harness.

 

I was given on obd2a non vtec harness the other day and tried it out. Still no luck on starting. going to try to find a vtec one though.

 

Connect the o2 sensor and see what happens?

 

I'm going to go get one and try that as soon as I can. Someone cut the one in this header off too short.

 

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