Intermitent crank no start
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 123
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From: Southern Illinois/ Pacific Ocean
A few months back a posted a thread about this issue and have since misplaced the thread.
I have a 91 crx Dx with a jdm b16. I doubt this info will make a difference considering I had this problem when I had a d16a6 in the same car. I have already replaced the main relay which did not help my problem.
Regardless of the outside temperature, if I run my heater at full blast after the engine warms up to heat the interior and drive the car a short distance, it will not start again until the interior is cold again.
The only way to get it to start is to rock the key in the ignition back and form until the fuel pump primes three times in a row. When I turn the key, the proper lights light up on the dash (including the cel) and turn off as normal. The main relay does not click over to let the pump prime.
I'm curious whether it is just a loose connection at the fuel tank for the pump or if my ignition barrel is the culprit.
Any help will be greatly appreciated considering the weather is beginning to warm up and this issue seems to be temperature related.
I have a 91 crx Dx with a jdm b16. I doubt this info will make a difference considering I had this problem when I had a d16a6 in the same car. I have already replaced the main relay which did not help my problem.
Regardless of the outside temperature, if I run my heater at full blast after the engine warms up to heat the interior and drive the car a short distance, it will not start again until the interior is cold again.
The only way to get it to start is to rock the key in the ignition back and form until the fuel pump primes three times in a row. When I turn the key, the proper lights light up on the dash (including the cel) and turn off as normal. The main relay does not click over to let the pump prime.
I'm curious whether it is just a loose connection at the fuel tank for the pump or if my ignition barrel is the culprit.
Any help will be greatly appreciated considering the weather is beginning to warm up and this issue seems to be temperature related.
I'm sorry, but the description of your problem is a bit vague.
Does it start after you, in your own words, rock the key 3 times? And do you mean from the position; contact and starting?
If it's not and you mean wiggling the key, it's indeed your ignition barrel. There's a false contact in it.
If your check light goes out and you don,t hear a "click" from the main relay it's either the relay or a bad connection. Check your ground at the thermostat housing. This is where the ECU gets its ground (strangely, but true) and I think the relay too.
This is a common problem.
If al this is fine, an other problem could be the temperature sensor for the ECU. It's a double wired sensor under the v-tec solenoid. If its "reading" to hot, the engine cranks but doesn't fire up as a safety. You can check its resistance. Don't know its values but I,m sure you can find it on the web.
Try to get a wiring diagram to see how you can short-cut the main relay as close as to the ECU you can get and as close as you can get to the main relay. This helps you find out if its in the wiring or tis the relay. And of course check for worn out or rusted pins at the connector of the relay.
Short descrition of the main relay is: Its 2 relays in 1. One for the fuel pump and one to power up the ECU. It gets one current of 12 volts and gives out two currents of 12 volts for both of them.
Hope this helps you out.
Ps., If you have trouble finding a wiring diagram you can check at www.decrxgarage.nl, click downloads and choose "werkplaatshandboeken". Its Dutch for shopmanual. There you can choose from all sorts of manuals.
Does it start after you, in your own words, rock the key 3 times? And do you mean from the position; contact and starting?
If it's not and you mean wiggling the key, it's indeed your ignition barrel. There's a false contact in it.
If your check light goes out and you don,t hear a "click" from the main relay it's either the relay or a bad connection. Check your ground at the thermostat housing. This is where the ECU gets its ground (strangely, but true) and I think the relay too.
This is a common problem.
If al this is fine, an other problem could be the temperature sensor for the ECU. It's a double wired sensor under the v-tec solenoid. If its "reading" to hot, the engine cranks but doesn't fire up as a safety. You can check its resistance. Don't know its values but I,m sure you can find it on the web.
Try to get a wiring diagram to see how you can short-cut the main relay as close as to the ECU you can get and as close as you can get to the main relay. This helps you find out if its in the wiring or tis the relay. And of course check for worn out or rusted pins at the connector of the relay.
Short descrition of the main relay is: Its 2 relays in 1. One for the fuel pump and one to power up the ECU. It gets one current of 12 volts and gives out two currents of 12 volts for both of them.
Hope this helps you out.
Ps., If you have trouble finding a wiring diagram you can check at www.decrxgarage.nl, click downloads and choose "werkplaatshandboeken". Its Dutch for shopmanual. There you can choose from all sorts of manuals.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 123
Likes: 0
From: Southern Illinois/ Pacific Ocean
It does help. I'll take a look at it in the next couple of days.
What I mean by rocking the key back and forth is turning the key from the acc. position to the on position. Sometimes the relay clicks and other times it doesn't click. It's a brand new relay and the old one does the same thing.
I can post a video the next time it happens.
What I mean by rocking the key back and forth is turning the key from the acc. position to the on position. Sometimes the relay clicks and other times it doesn't click. It's a brand new relay and the old one does the same thing.
I can post a video the next time it happens.
I think we can safely rule out the main relay. Hope you didn't thrown the old one away. May come in handy some day.
Don't need a video, the problem is well clear now.
What you can do which takes the less amount of time is to check the ignition barrel. Had a problem a few years back with it. When I came out of a corner the engine would just stop. No oil or battery lights. If I wiggled the key, lights came on and I could start.
To test the barrel with the less amount of time and fuss, just disconnect the connector not at the barrel itself, because there is a white round "block" at the end whch could be the culprit, but follow the wires to a connector a few inches down. You just need to take away the fuse panel under the steeringwheel.
Then simply hot wire it. Please use the same thickness wire. Let your engine heat up to the point which it normally won't start. Release the wire and hot wire it again. Maybe try it a few times to be sure. If it starts everytime then the "white block" at the end of the barrel is worn out.
Please do it in a controlled environment so bumpy roads or nasty law enforcers don't mess up your "project".
Please keep me informed on your progress and best of luck
Don't need a video, the problem is well clear now.
What you can do which takes the less amount of time is to check the ignition barrel. Had a problem a few years back with it. When I came out of a corner the engine would just stop. No oil or battery lights. If I wiggled the key, lights came on and I could start.
To test the barrel with the less amount of time and fuss, just disconnect the connector not at the barrel itself, because there is a white round "block" at the end whch could be the culprit, but follow the wires to a connector a few inches down. You just need to take away the fuse panel under the steeringwheel.
Then simply hot wire it. Please use the same thickness wire. Let your engine heat up to the point which it normally won't start. Release the wire and hot wire it again. Maybe try it a few times to be sure. If it starts everytime then the "white block" at the end of the barrel is worn out.
Please do it in a controlled environment so bumpy roads or nasty law enforcers don't mess up your "project".
Please keep me informed on your progress and best of luck
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