I just bought a 1994 Honda Accord from KY and I live in TN. It has an f22b1 engine with 67k miles, and the body only has 97k miles. I got it back home and tried to pass emissions and it failed with:

HC: (LIMIT) 220, but ran 433
CO: (LIMIT) 1.20, but ran 3.41
CO2: (NO LIMIT?) , but ran 12.26

Now, with that out there, I was told to check PCV valve and replace if bad, Seafoam the engine for cleaning purposes, which I have done, and last, do an oil change. I haven't quite gotten the oil change done (a.k.a. too lazy at the moment), but still seems to be sputtering at idle, and idles a little high.

I have also done a tune up. (plugs, plug wires, cap, and rotor)

As far as I know, the exhaust is new.

Last but not least....... I was told that this engine has an (?) EGR Delete? Then, was told it was almost a MUST to have that to pass emissions and that should help with the sputtering at idle. If the EGR Delete thing is true, where can I buy a (decently priced) EGR kit(?) ?

Also, ,all I can find are just EGR Valves, where do I hook that up at? How does it work (per-say).

KY doesn't have to pass emissions (not in bowling green anyway) and when this engine was put in, I'm assuming the EGR wasn't included there because (quote/unquote) "we dun give no damns about emissions here".

 

I FORGETTED DIS INFOS:

this is 100% unrelated (I think), but my speedometer seems to run about 10 MPH over what I'm actually going, and the RPMs seems to be all the way off.

Any ideas on how to fix/what to look at as far as that goes?

 

HC is not a good indicator of what is wrong, an engine running lean or rich will cause excessive HCs. It is a 'U' graph shape when looking at A/F ratio.

CO, this is a good indicator of what is happening, a high CO usually indicates running rich.

CO2, ideally you want to see it near 15%.
PCV valve will affect emissions, it aides in piton ring sealing as well. Make sure that the fresh air intake at the corner of the valve cover is also correctly attached to the air intake tube.

Oil will affect HCs. Old oil or gas contaminated will burn in the combustion chamber.

Were any of the old spark plugs covered in oil?
If no and the ignition components are new, and the base timing is set correctly, I would look at the FITV for the high idle issue, and the IACV for the idle sputtering issue. There is a write up in the Accord FAQ at the top of the page.

Is there still a catalyst in the system?
If the engine still retains a US intake manifold the EGR valve will be located between the throttle body on the intake manifold and VTEC solenoid.


If your EGR valve is missing, the check engine light would also be illuminated as the valve has a lift sensor. If the ECU does not detect the sensor the CEL will come on. Does your check engine light work? If not there will be no way to check for any other possible codes or issues.

If the EGR valve was simply removed and no other changes or tuning done to the ECU, this will also cause a lean misfire at part throttle, a slight missing or bucking will be felt. This will increase emissions, not just for NOx but for HC as you will have a lean misfire. And you will also most likely have a slight knock of ping during cruise with EGR not functioning.

During part throttle, vacuum is supplied to the EGR valve which begins to open. EGR does not function at idle nor WOT. EGR is used to dilute the fresh air intake charge during part throttle to reduce combustion temps. High combustion temps creates NOx emissions. EGR reduces this greatly. It can be argued that EGR also aides in MPG at cruise. When at cruise a car does not need its maximum power, only 40 or so HP. Diluting the mixture reduces power output and the amount of air/fuel needed for cruise, thus reducing the fuel needed. If EGR system is not functional on a system that is designed to use EGR you will have a lean misfire, pinging, or knocking at part throttle. This will also affect other gas outputs from an incomplete combustion, high HCs, high CO, high NOx.

 

Well I passed emissions. I just pulled off 1 injector and ran through on 3 cylinders. doest use or pull as much fuel so there isn't as much crap coming out of the tail pipe. so I just did that for now. I'd like to get an egr but can't find one for cheap enough in my budget right now. As far as the idle sputtering. you said IACV. what is that? and how do I fix that?

Unrelated issue, but same car.

When I'm shifting, I don't think it goes in and out of gear as smooth as I think it ought to. is there anything I can check or look at make it smoother? And my speedo is about 10 mph over the actual speed of how fast I'm going and the rpms are off too. Will a new Guage Cluster fix this? Or I heard someone say a sensor on the engine? How do I fix these issues? and find a decent one for cheap.

 

Junkyard, bring a vacuum pump to test that the diaphragm is not ruptured, should only cost you a few bucks, vs the ~$200 or so Honda wants.
It and the FITV are attached to the throttle body.
There is a writeup, with pictures, on how to clean the IACV, and to adjust the FITV to prevent the up and down idle at the top of the page in the 'ACCORD FAQ' link.

You may want to verify there is enough fluid in the case.
If there is, then it just may be time to change the old fluid out, or make sure it is the correct fluid. As you stated with the EGR valve, they just yanked it. So who knows what fluid might be in the transmission.
Look for any damaged wires, or damaged/corroded ground wires. The speedo is electrical if the wiring is damaged the signal may be goofy.
But it may just be the cluster has gone bad.

Usually just go to the yarde and find another 94-97 cluster assembly and try it. Someone also mentioned that Acura CL cluster from the 97-99 years will also work. Make sure you get one from the same drivetrain as yours. I4/MT not V6/AT, as the tachometer will not work correctly if you install a V6 on an I4 or I4 on a V6.

 

Is this a 5-speed or auto? Reason asking is because you questioned about the shifting. You can go to Lavergne to Express Pull-N-Save and get a EGR take your time and clean in or just remove yours and clean with some carb cleaner and re-install.

You removed an injector and ran through emissions?

 

If the tech doesn't catch it or care, then a dead cylinder can be used to pump air into the exhaust, which will aid in secondary combustion if the car is running rich. Not the best way to pass, and it doesn't fix anything, but it will work well for 2-3 gas tests.

 

You learn something everyday! Thanks Mike!

 

just a little info for anyone that runs into this in the future. for anyone in the ny state.
NYS does not require an emissions test for cars that are OBD1. you only get a visual exam of the car. so as long as you are not missing/broken window, headlight, taillights you pass!!

 

a tech friend of mine said to replace master and slave cylinder to "raise" my clutch pedal back up. It feels at the moment like I'm pushing the pedal on a good 1 to 2 inches before I feel the clutch.

anyone agree or disagree with this?

 

And this is a 5 speed for whoever asked.

I don't live far from Lavergne pull n save. I need to go get a window motor wiper motor door panels tail lights and other ****. just lazy. lol

 

completely incorrect ... u adjust the pushrod to adjust clutch engagement

 

Where is said push rod. and I already bought the master and slave cylinders. so they're going on anyway. Lmao.

 

Your speed sensor, which is mounted above the transmission, seems to be screwing up. Check and clean the connector with electric component cleaner. Look closely for charred or damaged pins and their female equivalent. If it looks undamaged, clean the area around it really well (the hole left by the sensor goes directly into your transmission!), and then remove the two bolts and slide the sensor out. Has a kinda long rod with a toothed gear at the bottom. Check it for wear and tear. and replace. It is what helps tell your car when to shift and also controls your speedometer. A faulty sensor/component will cause both of your issues.

 

you didnt pop any codes doing this??

 

Also the speedo may be off due to tire/rim sizing

 

OBDI cars will not pick up on this instantly or at all. IIRC there are no misfire codes for '90-'95 OBDI cars. And if the car is running rich enough, with one injector disconnected the fresh air pumped into the exhaust would cause the O2 to react as expected, and may not set off a code for injectors.

 

learn something new everyday! I wasnt sure what the parameters were for the obd1