Does anyone here autocross/road race with a turboed honda?

I went to an autocross event for the first time this past weekend and it looks like something I would rather get into then messing around on the street. The reason I am asking this question is that I have a turbo LS, and I cracked a piston. So pretty much I have to make up my mind weather to rebuild for all motor ls/vtec, or fully built turbo.

What is better for autocross/road race...all motor, or turbo?
If turbo then what set-up would you run?
If all motor the what setup is most popular when autocrossing/road racing?

Thanks Alot for the help.

 

Has anyone ever done this?, or does anyone know someone that I can talk to about this?

 

I've been autocrossing with a turbo on my Civic for 3 years. (I've been autocrossing for a totoal of 13yrs) Turbo's are more challenginf to autocross, but it's not impossible, and they can definately be fast, if the car is set up properly.

-Chris

 

Congrats on the decision to stop messing around on the street. "Major Prizzops!"


For someone to tell you which motor setup is best, you'll first have to decide what form of racing you want to get into, or decide if car classification is even a relevant thing for you. If it's not, and you want to get out there and enjoy your time, then you could stick with a turbo and have some fun in the highly modified classes, where you'll likely get mopped up in. If you want to go out and do some track days (which I highly recommend), I'd tend to go with a motor that doesn't have a snail.

Much more important than motor and horsepower is seat time. With enough of that stuff, the difference will be much greater than any sort of motor can provide as you improve your skills.

 

EMod Civic: Thats awesome. Do you mind sharing your setup?

Mike P.: I would like to eventually get into road racing, but first autocross so I can learn how to drive my car. It doesnt really matter to me what class I end up in since I will be learning how to drive the car anyway. Since the engine is blown, for now, I figured now is just as good a time as any to think about the future, and what I really want to persue as a hobby. That is why I figure I mine-as-well build the motor for one or the other, then learn how to drive it. Also I see that you prefer a motor that is non-turbo. Why is that?

Thank You both of your inputs, and keep them coming!

 

Keep in mind that either a turbo or a LS/VTEC will put you in the same autox class. If you want a different (lower) class, you have to keep the internals stock.

I run N/A simply because I autox both cars in stock class. Plus, up to this point, I was more interested in the "driving" part of autox rather than the "tuning" part.

 

Turbos are really not ideal for autox, although as mentioned above they can work. LS/Vtec setups would be really tough to class in both autox and road racing and you may end up racing against tub frame purpose build race cars. In autox, it's best to start out with a stock car... but it sounds like it's too late for that in you're case. I'd say just put a stock LS motor in your car and start autocrossing and decide where you want to spend your money once you know a little bit about what you're doing and where you want to go. Oh, and look at a rule book.

 

maxQ: Thanks for the advice. I didnt relize they would be in the same class.

robbin: I suppose for now I will build the car as if I were doing a full turbo build up. I see that you autox a 90 Integra LS. I am driving a 90 integra ls(stock) as my daily driver for now. Maybe I will start with this and work my way up with this car. How do you like your ls for autox? What sort of mods do you have done to it? The springs on my car are rusted out right now and are in need of replacing. I was thinking of H&R OE's. What do you think of this?

Thanks alot for the help so far.

 

Jamison:

I love my car... whether or not it's the best race car in the world I don't know. I have seen people do quite well in 2nd gen GS-Rs which of course have the same chassis and less torque so I think our cars have potential. I'm currently running in E-stock with my car (canadian rules). My only real mod so far is a 19mm suspension techniques rear sway bar. I don't think the SCCA rules allow changing the rear sway bar in stock but if you do ever do the upgrade, I would go with a bigger bar: either the 22mm from progress or a bigger one if you can find it.

As far as upgrading springs, I would not suggest the H&R OEs for autoX. They will not be stiff enough. If street comfort is still a big deal for you (which it should be if you drive your car every day) you probably won't want to go with higher spring rates than 400 lbs/in. You'll want the rear springs to be at least as stiff as the fronts, and probably stiffer. However, any "sport" spring you can buy will have front springs almost twice as stiff as the rears. They are also almost all progressive (ie, the start off really soft as get stiffer as they're compressed) which is not very good for any type of racing.

Ground Control coil-overs sleeves are a good option because you have the ability to adjust your ride height if you want to, and you can custom order any spring rate you want (in 25lb/in increments).

You will also probably need new shocks. Konis are great, a lot of people think Tokico Illumina's do the job and are much cheaper than konis, and I heard recently that bilstein might be making shocks for our cars now, but I'm not sure about that one.

Otherwise, just get out there and have fun. Seat time is the most important thing to improve your times, and like I said, it is best to start out stock. Have fun.

 

I road race my 98 greddy turbo teg with just shy of 300bhp and can hang with C5 vettes

 

Don't forget to make the turbo small enough so you can spool up early.

 

robbin: Thanks alot for all of the help. I think I will try out stock for a while and then work my way up.

IMPORTDYNAMICS: What suspension setup are you running?

orange_civic: If I end up someday autox/road racing my turbo ls it will be with a t3/to4e with a very very small wastegate spring.