I have been looking for a reason why my 2000 Accord will sometimes not do anything at all when you turn the key. Its been happening more frequently so I have researched a bit and done the following.

Tested the battery, which reads around 12.5 on the multimeter.

Found that a common reason could be the main relay. I took out the relay and looked for bad cracked solder contacts and didnt see anything outstanding but 2 points looked to be slightly discolored so I resoldered them and reinstalled and it still does it. I followed these how to videos...


I also saw that there was a recall on the ignition switched for some 97-200 hondas, but havent contacted Honda yet.

http://www.honda.com/newsandviews/ar...=2002052353859

Any recommendations?

 

Step back and think about this.

Main relay and the starter doing nothing have nothing to do with each other.

When the key is turned to "start" are you getting ~12v to the small wire on the starter?

 

I started with the Main Relay after reading that the solder contacts often crack due to extreme hot cold conditions and saw those videos so I figured give it a shot.

After testing the main wire that connects to the starter (and it took me some time to locate the starter) it does light up the voltage tester I have when the key is turned and it actually starts. My wife was turning the key back and forth and on the times that she turned the key and nothing happened-the voltage tester probe light did not light up.

So does that mean its the ignition switch thats bad?
If so I saw that recall notice and wonder if I should take it to the dealer and have them replace it.
Or are there more tests I need to run?

BTW the boot that covers that wire to starter connect was so badly cracked and dry rot it nearly crumbled away so I have to replace that somehow.

 

It doesn't guarantee the ignition switch is bad(however it probably is bad) but it means that the issue isn't the starter.

You will need to remove the steering column covers. Then using a multimeter check for voltage on the start position solder joint on the back of the ignition switch while turning the key to start. It will be the solder joint furthest from you.

So, one lead touching that solder joint and the other lead on ground. You can even use alligator clips with one on ground somewhere under the dash towards the driver side chassis and one attached to that starter solder joint.

No voltage means the ignition switch is bad. Since it's intermittent it would be best to drive the car and warm up the car really good, this stresses the ignition switch so that it will act up.

You can also do a voltage drop test using one lead on the yellow/black wire coming into the switch and the other on that same start circuit solder joint while trying to start the car. Anything over 5 volts means it's bad, it should be less than a volt.

 

Also, the main relay has no control over the cranking of the engine so if the car doesn't crank that is not the main relay causing it not to crank.

 

I have the steering column covers removed now. Where is the solder point Im looking for or do I need to remove the starter switch to get to it?

Here are some pics






Also I called the Honda Dealer and my VIN# doesnt qualify as part of the recall.

 

opposite side of key...ur looking at the lock cylinder in those pics

 

I removed the 2 screws holding the cover on, but there is something else that I cant see keeping it tight. So I pried it back and broke the upper tab of the cover

Here is what I see when I pry it back, this is the switch right?

 

yep thats it ... try to get better access to it so u can test if you can ... it looks like there is still a cover blocking it .. my 4th gen doesnt have little cover blocking it so mine is a bit easier to access

 

I cant find out whats holding that cover on from the back side, so the best I can do is pry it back. Will a voltage probe light do the trick to test? I have a multimeter but in this case not sure what settings to use. Turn it to the 20 volt position?

Am I needing to test the amount of current or just IF there is any current on those misfires that happen every so often?

 

the light can work but if the switch isnt acting up it will test fine ... u need a multimeter to do the voltage drop test ...ok just drive the around until its good and hot and then do the first test, assuming u can get to the start circuit solder joint

 

if u can atleast remove the switch u can atleast see what youre dealing with before putting it back in and testing it ... keep in mind that yellow/black wire is hot at all times

 

Since this is my wifes car I went ahead and took it to a dealer to test since I'm learning how to use the multimeter I have, and they called and said the starter was bad and wanted $400+ to replace it.

During the testing that I did at the starter I used this tool



I had it contacted to the portion of the metal connector tab that came from the wire not on the starter itself.

When the key was turned and the starter cranked the light came on the tool
But when the key was turned and nothing happened the tool did not light up.

Here is a video clip of what is happening at the dash



I dont know enough about electrical systems but wouldnt that mean that the switch didnt communicate to the starter?

The said they tested the starter and it was bad, and before I replace the starter I just want to make sure.

 

correct if that test light doesnt light up the issue is not the starter .. if it were me i would swap out the ignition switch

 

Holmesnmanny thank you for all of your help with both the cars Im trying to get straightened out!!!! Very much appreciated!!

 

I read through this post..
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-accord-1990-2002-2/1998-2002-honda-accord-ignition-switch-replacement-2353017/
and did try to test the starter switch but had a question on what is meant by the "on" and "start" position in his post. I assume that means turning the ignition from "on" to "Start" and not hopping probes between ports on the switch. Also he mentions testing by placing the probes in the 1 and 4 positions but his pics have 1 and 5.




So if I followed instructions right the switch is bad for sure.
Here is what I did

Took the multimeter and set to the diode/continiuty mode
placed the pos probe in slot 1
placed the neg probe in slot 4



then put the ignition in "on" position and got this reading


then turned the key to the start position and got a "not good" reading according to the post I read




Then I switched to the 1 and 5 positions



and in the on position got this




then in the start position and got this, which is not good according to the post



So is it true to say that the switch tested bad, or I did a bad test?

 

in the start position u wont have continuity to 4 from 1 ... ur switch is intermittently bad u can either drive it til it gets hot and pray it acts up when u test it or do the voltage drop test i suggested or take it to an electrical shop and ask them to do a voltage drop across the yellow/black and white wires that go to the ignition switch via the solder joint when you start the car .. a car stereo place will do it for cheap maybe $30 or so


the techical terms are ig1 ig2 and start btw

 

I will take some time to learn more about how to do voltage drop tests cause I am interested in knowing more about electrical systems and trouble shooting, but I had to get this done quicker than I can comprehend it all.

So I bought the starter switch and replaced it and it cranks right up so far each time!! I'll give it a while and see if it acts up again. I hope the starter isnt bad like the dealer diagnosed for $60, and that this gets it done.

Just like the original poster mentioned about the cover on that starter switch, it is a PITA to get that last screw from the top right of the column. I couldnt and had to pry the cover back once I took the 2 screws that were accessible off. ended up breaking the cover.

Does anyone know the right way to get access to that top screw?