Hi I have a 92 honda accord lx 7 months ago I changed spark plugs and wires and cap and rotor also coil and igniter then last December my distributor went out so I replaced again then two days ago same thing I replaced again why am I going through the caps. I checked for play in the distributor found a little play but barely any idk what to check now Thank you

 

What brands are you using for these replacement parts? With Honda ignition parts the old adage "you get what you pay for" is very true.

So you have replaced the distributor twice and the cap and rotor how many times?

What is the reason you are replacing the caps, are the contacts worn out or burnt?

 

When you say "Replaced again" did you replace the whole distributor with an aftermarket one or what did you replace exactly?

How do you know its your distributor causing whatever problems you are having?

Can you give more details

 

Im sorry I wasnt very clear on that I have replaced the distributor cap 3 times and the spark plugs and wires, rotor, coil and igniter once. I used the autozone cap value craft should I use the honda manufacturer cap thanks

 

What is the issue that is causing you to replace these parts ? Cap and rotor shouldn't be changed out for 15k or so. Plugs should go atleast 30k

 

The first time I changed it out I just stopped running I diagnosed it to be the igniter so I went ahead and changed spark plug and wires and cap and rotor to. The second time I went out one morning to go to school at UTI and it wouldn't start I had to spark at cap changed ran great this last time I was leaving work it would start and die finally started but real rough running and I tried making it home and it died on freeway again changed the distributor cap and is running now.

 

Possible main relay issue.

 

How could I check that if the problem is random and I have no spark at distributor cap and when I change it out it fixes it.

 

just pull another main relay and ignition switch from the junk yard its always good to have a spare of both of those anyhow for our old cars .. $25 out the door for both

 

u can test a main relay but due to its nature itll fix itself before u get to the test it

 

I agree gaving those spare parts but I don't understand how replacing the cap would fix a main relay issue thanks

 

The main relay in these cars is known to have cold/cracked solder issues on it's circuit board. It shows itself as an intermittent no start issue based on temperature and weather. When you have these no start issues have you ever noticed if the fuel pump still primes ehen you try to start it?

What do the contacts inside your cap and on the Rotor look like when you replaced them? Where they worn, broken or burnt up?

There are ways to pinpoint a no spark issue. The next time it happens you need to try and find out where the 12v/power source stops within the ignition circuit. Check at the coil, ignitor, ignition switch, main relay etc etc.....

 

The contacts are burned alittle the 12v stops at igniter

 

The fuel pump still primes when this happens

 

Okay, so here's the deal. When you have a part that completely goes bad, you can test it and see it's bad and replace it and be good to go.

When you have an intermittent condition you will have no problems when you test it but as the component warms up it will cut out...there are three components that fit this criteria...the main relay, the ignitor, and the ignition switch.

These are really the three main components that you will have issues with.

Aftermarket parts will sometimes last less than a year, even being bad out of the box at times.

I've had an ignition switch last one year, literally, a thermostat not even last one year, literally, and I can go on and on. Your best bet is to pull one of each from the junkyard and swap it in. This assumes that nothing is actually testing bad.

I can't really give you any better advice.

I would have not have guessed that my ignition switch or thermostat would have only last one year but they did. The ignition switch would act up only after warming up and it would only have issues getting a connection through the start position...which means when I would turn the car off after driving it it would not start back up immediately. I tested everything in the starting system and everything tested good. I even returned a good battery and had to bitch out autozone cause i would sure it was bad. Well in hindsight it wasn't bad. My ignition switch I bought cheap at rockauto was bad. I got another from the junkyard that was OEM and haven't had any issues since(two months now). I tested the bad one before I swapped it out, and it was indeed bad. But I wouldn't have thought it was bad. I thought there's no way this part after only a year is bad. But it was.

My original ignition switch that I originally had in my car was not bad but I changed it out just to be on the safe side. However I woulda been better off just leaving it in.

If you do go aftermarket, I know now to only go with established brands not off brands.