i need a clutch that can hold ~220 hp. i don't know what to get. i would like the best but also the cheapest, so let me know where to find it.

BTW it's an Si tranny 89

 

ACTION clutch 1md kit with a sprung disc, if you are using for occasional racing and mostly street driving.

ACTION clutch 1md kit with solid disc if you plan on racing at the track and with slicks.

if you are planning to go even higher on the HP in the future, get the ACTION 2mdkit with solid disc. this will hold good up past 300hp+

the 1md kits are about $325.00 while the dual diaphragm kits(2MD) are about $425.00


[Modified by exospeedAMcrx, 6:51 PM 10/29/2002]

 

i am not doubting you but can i just ask what you are doing to make 220 hp on a d series

 

yeh...do you have the 220 hp already or u plan on having it??? just curious...never really heard of those numbers on a d series...didnt say it cant be done i just never seen and im interested in seeing what mods to gt that

 

http://pub143.ezboard.com/fhondadser...icID=268.topic

 

are those actual horses you're talking about?

 

220 hp d series. You have my attention and my respect.

 

ACT.....
or Clutch Specialties....

 

wont a d16 and ~12lbs of boost reach around 220?

 

It's not that hard to get 220 out of a turbo d16.

 

yea turbo is easy, but NA is the ****...especially if he can do it on street gas sans octane booster. Im in the process of doing 450 hp, but all my stuff is just going to be turboed...and if it blows up, yay for me

 

well i plan on being n/a. i'll be using a y8 head and completely building the valvetrain and getting a race cam. i'm not saying i'm gonna have that much hp right away, i'm just estimating with that set up and all the bolt ons that i can afford of what a reasonable hp number will be of when it is finished. i'm pretty sure i can get 220 hp with that set up and some crazy bolt ons. if not the clutch will be very efficient, just wanna be safe. anyways any other ideas? any other cheaper places?

 

I hear stuff about clutchcityonline.com check 'em out...

 

will do, anybody else have any suggestions?

 

Centerforce Dual Friction. Its rated up to 290hp. It cost about $300.

 

clutch specialties..under 300 bucks and theyre great clutches

Exedy/Daikin are OEM clutches....dont be fooled by the claims of a "performance" clutch from them

ACT is good as well but a bit pricey

Clutchmasters they suck and dont last very long

 

Centerforce Dual Friction

 

Why spend all sorts of cash on a motor, and get a cheap clutch?

 

didn't mean cheap, i meant most affordable! haha, i'm thrifty

 

Right on. That'll be a nice setup (which pistons will u use?) - if you p&p the head, then toss in an aftermarket cam.. and considering you already have the I/H/E done, then you'd want maybe a MSD ignition system in there, along with a chipped ECU to compensate for the headwork, I think you'd be hitting around 200 hp....But you'll definitely want that compression ratio as high as you can get it, I think 11.8:1 would be perfect!

 

Well i plan on only building the head. I will be using stock pistons. The head will be P&P'ed with a 3 angle valve job. I'm not shaving the head because i hear it's not a good idea. I'm using upgraded valvtrain in the head: ie race cam, ss valves, titanium retainers & springs. i'm kinda going ghetto a little and using a chipped 89 teg ecu to maintain the fuel along with a pump, rail, and regulator. I'm probably going to get an ignition sometime but not right away. also i'll be using the thinner z6 gasket for more compression! hopefully around 200 hp on an n/a sohc d series!!! no one else like it in town!

 

Don't be heart broken when you don't make 220hp. I have a N/A B16 and only got 210fhp / 180whp @ 8600rpm. A lot of money and work went into this motor, and when done...nothing was stock except the block and the crank. Unless you punch out your D16 to a 1.8L, and add some really big cams and head work...you will not make over 200hp to the wheels.

B16A2 (Fully balance & blueprinted) bore with forged 81.5mm Wisco 12:1 pistons.
Eagle forged rods (1.78) rod ratio
JDM ITR Head (Full race ported & polished)
Eibach Valve Springs & Crower Titanium Retainers
ARP Head studs
JDM ITR cams (should of bought Skunk 2 stage 2 Cams)
AEM Cam gears
JDM CTR 4-1 Header (port matched)
2 ½ catback & a Dynomax Ultra Flow
Custom Ram Air w/ K & N Filter
JDM ITR Throttle body (port matched, and bored to 64mm)
JDM ITR Intake manifold (port matched)
RCE 550cc Injectors (kinda big for idle...but can't beat the high end power)
AEM fuel rail
AEM fuel pressure regulator
Bosch fuel pump (255cc)
MSD 6AL Ignition
Accel 8mm wires
Hondata Stage 2 /w PR3 (Tuned & Dynoed)
B&M Oil cooler (motor now holds 5 1/2 qt)
Dual core radiator (current head coolant temp 180*)
YS1 GS-R Tranny & LS 5th gear Quaife LSD
Clutchmaster Lighten Flywheel (10 lbs)
Clutchmaster Stage III Clutch

My goal was to break 200whp. I came up short. I know now that the ITR cams held me back. I hope to change this come next spring. My only other mod I am left to do to this motor is to send the block to Golden Eagle and have it sleeved for 84mm.

If you must break 200hp, and don't want to go broke doing it...just go turbo. I wanted to be N/A because everyone else is doing turbo...and I wanted to try.

Yell88CRXsi

 

d15 can run over 200 HP.

A lot of people underestimate the power of d series engines.


reasons why:


if they blow there like 50 bucks or less to replace

if you buy the right parts it will haul

no wiring or swap problem you have to live with

if ya dont mind a lumpy idle due to a nice cam then dont do it.


Turbo ownes j0 just cause i cant afford to make that much power NA or i would

 

turbo owns me too

 

i'm really not expecting that much hp, thats just what i want the clutch to hold for future mods and ****. I don't want to go turbo for a reason, everyone is turbo. I want to try n/a. even if i don't get my 200+ hp it will still be fast as ****. I will have a fully upgraded head with a race cam. i really don't see why 210 fwhp isn't realistic. i think it will get done. we'll see.