Ok, thought I had fixed these problems when I changed the clutch but apparently not.

1995 Accord F22B SOHC nonVTEC 2.2L

1)When the car is cruising at a steady speed, as soon as I reach 2500rpm (and stay there) the car will start to jerk forward violently. I can pass the 2500rpm if I just accelerate, but it seems 2500rpm is the cruising speed.

2)As Im coming to a stop and put the car in neutral the rpms will climb up to close to 3000rpm. As soon as the cars about to stop the rpms will drop to normal.
**NOTE**
When I changed my clutch I forgot to disconnect the VSS and the negative wire got snapped up along the line. While the VSS was not connected problem #2 was gone. The car did not climb in rpm's as i put the car in neutral and was slowing down. Soon as i reconnected the ground wire today problem #2 came back. I changed the VSS with 1 i got from pick a part thinking that was the issue.
Also, my speedometer will intermitantly work.

When the VSS wasnt connected correctly I got a CEL for the VSS, now with it hooked back up i dont have and CEL

I have changed the:
IACV
FITV
Distributor Cap
Cleaned the EGR's
Cleaned the Throttle Body
Even kicked the back tire

Only things I can think are the TPS and cap and rotor next to change.
Any ideas?

 

Although you cleaned the EGR passages, did you verify that the EGR valve itself functions correctly? Crack the throttle open slightly at idle and the EGR valve should start to open. Verify it has vacuum signal from its feed. Or if you do not have a vacuum pump, find a port to tap into with manifold vacuum. Directly hook the manifold vacuum to the EGR valve while the engine is running, the EGR valve should open and the engine should stumble if the EGR valve works and the passages are clear.
If not diagnose why. Verify that the EGR valve diaphragm works. If so you will need to find out why exhaust gases are not getting to the intake manifold.

 

I'm actually wondering if maybe you got a dead spot in your throttle position sensor. You could try backprobing the signal wire(it will be the wire that has no voltage with the ignition on and doesn't have continuity to ground, it's usally the middle wire and usually red).

Just look in the faq's for how to calibrate your tps and it'll show you how to test it.

 

now see error code 14

How do I know if its a ECU or TCU error code?

 

ECU codes blink from the CEL.
TCU codes blink from the D4 light.

 

So if its a manual 5speed I wont have a TCU code?

 

Correct, TCU and TCU codes are only on AT cars and codes can be observed through the D4 light on AT cars.

 

I know this is an old thread, but i finally got it fixed.
Ended up being my TPS
Thanks to all who helped me out

 

Interesting. I know a failed TPS often does not set off the CEL,(code 7) but I am interested in the code 14(IACV) being set. Did you have any IACV issues?

 

I'm guessing he had a dead spot on it.

 

Yes, was having idle issues too. When I would put the car in neutral as i was coming to a stop the idle would climb up to around 3k and sit there. Once the car was just about at a dead stop the idle would drop to where it was supposed to be.
Recently though the car was dying when i came to a stop