97 Honda Civic HX - car turns on, but have to keep key turned to stay running
Hey all, newb here and am trying to hunt down the problem with my 97 Honda Civic HX.
It's been sitting for about 2 months, and it's got a lot of condensation inside, and some mold was growing on steering wheel and dash and stuff. I'm assuming the leak is in the trunk, around the seal, as I put a bucket back there to see if I could pinpoint the leak, and it filled up in a week or so (I live north of seattle, we get a lot of rain).
SO, obviously there's moisture issues, but at the moment that's secondary.
I can turn the car on, and it idles fine but once I release the key back to the normal "On" position, the car turns off. Not like it coughs and splutters, but it acts like I actually turned the ignition off. So, just to be clear, if I hold the key all the way forward in the ignition position, the car will fire up and run but it goes off as soon as I let it back into the normal "On" position. Sorry for being repetitive, just didn't want to be unclear.
So, my initial thinking is the ignition key drum, or something. But then again, the moisture could be causing a short somewhere? The starter maybe, but like I said, it STARTS ok, just doesn't stay on unless key is continually turned all the way forward.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
~ greg
It's been sitting for about 2 months, and it's got a lot of condensation inside, and some mold was growing on steering wheel and dash and stuff. I'm assuming the leak is in the trunk, around the seal, as I put a bucket back there to see if I could pinpoint the leak, and it filled up in a week or so (I live north of seattle, we get a lot of rain).
SO, obviously there's moisture issues, but at the moment that's secondary.
I can turn the car on, and it idles fine but once I release the key back to the normal "On" position, the car turns off. Not like it coughs and splutters, but it acts like I actually turned the ignition off. So, just to be clear, if I hold the key all the way forward in the ignition position, the car will fire up and run but it goes off as soon as I let it back into the normal "On" position. Sorry for being repetitive, just didn't want to be unclear.
So, my initial thinking is the ignition key drum, or something. But then again, the moisture could be causing a short somewhere? The starter maybe, but like I said, it STARTS ok, just doesn't stay on unless key is continually turned all the way forward.
Any ideas?
Thanks!
~ greg
You did a continuity test on the wires of the ignition switch? How about inspecting the switch itself. I had to replace my sisters switch on her integra because she was having intermittent starting issues, and I mean no start at all. You might wanna take the switch apart and clean it up and add di-electric grease to it.
it is your switch, ive had the same issue. 92-00 switch/harnesses are the same.
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Test results:
Pulled brown ignition harness from internal fusebox area. Inserted leads with multimeter, one on the white wire, other on the yellow (Ign wire). Disconnected battery, and then put key in ignition. No continuity on position 1, continuity on position 2, no continuity on turning key all the way to "Start". Release key, snaps back to position 2 and have continuity again.
Only 3 wires in that harness to test, Accessory, Common and Ign.
Those the results you were meaning RonJ@HT?
Pulled brown ignition harness from internal fusebox area. Inserted leads with multimeter, one on the white wire, other on the yellow (Ign wire). Disconnected battery, and then put key in ignition. No continuity on position 1, continuity on position 2, no continuity on turning key all the way to "Start". Release key, snaps back to position 2 and have continuity again.
Only 3 wires in that harness to test, Accessory, Common and Ign.
Those the results you were meaning RonJ@HT?
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The switch may be ok electrically, but bad mechanically. If it can't hold the run position by itself, it's probably a bad switch or key tumbler itself.
You may have to replace the electrical part of the key switch assy.
You may have to replace the electrical part of the key switch assy.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
With the electrical part of the switch pulled away from the key cylinder:
-turn the switch with a small screw driver.
-see if it can hold the run position or if it is loose/iffy.
-turn the switch with a small screw driver.
-see if it can hold the run position or if it is loose/iffy.
Test results:
Pulled brown ignition harness from internal fusebox area. Inserted leads with multimeter, one on the white wire, other on the yellow (Ign wire). Disconnected battery, and then put key in ignition. No continuity on position 1, continuity on position 2, no continuity on turning key all the way to "Start". Release key, snaps back to position 2 and have continuity again.
Only 3 wires in that harness to test, Accessory, Common and Ign.
Those the results you were meaning RonJ@HT?
Pulled brown ignition harness from internal fusebox area. Inserted leads with multimeter, one on the white wire, other on the yellow (Ign wire). Disconnected battery, and then put key in ignition. No continuity on position 1, continuity on position 2, no continuity on turning key all the way to "Start". Release key, snaps back to position 2 and have continuity again.
Only 3 wires in that harness to test, Accessory, Common and Ign.
Those the results you were meaning RonJ@HT?
In your case, you need to test for continuity between BAT in the 7P connector and IG1 in the 5P connector when the key is in OFF, ON(II), and ON(III).
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