Exedy Flywheel?
So I have a 1995 Civic (D16Z6)
My question to ya'll is has anyone used the Exedy 10.9lb flywheel and was it worth buying?
I have heard a lot of good things and a lot of bad things about lighter flywheels.
I'm throwing in a Exedy Stage 1 clutch so what would be better for acceleration the stock flywheel or the 10.9lb one?
What other pros and cons would this flywheel have?
Please only respond if you have used this particular flywheel.
My question to ya'll is has anyone used the Exedy 10.9lb flywheel and was it worth buying?
I have heard a lot of good things and a lot of bad things about lighter flywheels.
I'm throwing in a Exedy Stage 1 clutch so what would be better for acceleration the stock flywheel or the 10.9lb one?
What other pros and cons would this flywheel have?
Please only respond if you have used this particular flywheel.
Another "please only respond if" thread...I love these!
Will it be better for acceleration? Yes. Will you be able to notice it? Sure, but the butt dyno lies. 10.9 isn't enough to notice anything on the street. On the track, unless you're driving on the cusp of 100%, any perceived benefits shouldn't be attributed to the flywheel.
If you want a flywheel with a noticeable difference, buy a Fidanza 6 pound, and be prepared to hate your car in parking lots.
Will it be better for acceleration? Yes. Will you be able to notice it? Sure, but the butt dyno lies. 10.9 isn't enough to notice anything on the street. On the track, unless you're driving on the cusp of 100%, any perceived benefits shouldn't be attributed to the flywheel.
If you want a flywheel with a noticeable difference, buy a Fidanza 6 pound, and be prepared to hate your car in parking lots.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
It was a little annoying between shifts. Had it on my B18C-R swapped EM1. The stock ITR flywheel felt much smoother....which is why I never went to a lighter one on my actual ITR lol. This is just my opinion for street driving, BTW.
I guess it's not awful. But....I never liked light flywheels with street clutches that require you to push the pedal more than about 1" to shift. I like it on tap to shift race clutches though. Again...not for street driving.
I guess it's not awful. But....I never liked light flywheels with street clutches that require you to push the pedal more than about 1" to shift. I like it on tap to shift race clutches though. Again...not for street driving.
Another "please only respond if" thread...I love these!
Will it be better for acceleration? Yes. Will you be able to notice it? Sure, but the butt dyno lies. 10.9 isn't enough to notice anything on the street. On the track, unless you're driving on the cusp of 100%, any perceived benefits shouldn't be attributed to the flywheel.
If you want a flywheel with a noticeable difference, buy a Fidanza 6 pound, and be prepared to hate your car in parking lots.
Will it be better for acceleration? Yes. Will you be able to notice it? Sure, but the butt dyno lies. 10.9 isn't enough to notice anything on the street. On the track, unless you're driving on the cusp of 100%, any perceived benefits shouldn't be attributed to the flywheel.
If you want a flywheel with a noticeable difference, buy a Fidanza 6 pound, and be prepared to hate your car in parking lots.
Cool Cool Island Breezes. BOY-EE
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Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 11,953
Likes: 9
From: TRILLINOIS....WAY downtown, jerky.
Trying to move slightly without lurching around like a goddamn ******* is hard with a 6lb flywheel...with any clutch.
Idk why it has to come down to that, though. People buy flywheels for the feel of a light flywheel. If you like the quicker throttle response in lieu of smooth shifts, a light flywheel is for you.
Idk why it has to come down to that, though. People buy flywheels for the feel of a light flywheel. If you like the quicker throttle response in lieu of smooth shifts, a light flywheel is for you.
Lighter flywheel = less rotational inertia = motor has a harder time maintaining itself at partial throttle. Higher RPM's stabilize it, so at 25 MPH driving through town, you can sit in 2nd gear without any problems. At parking lot speeds of 5-10 MPH, the engine doesn't have enough speed to "stabilize", and you can't shift lower than 1st to increase RPM while maintaining speed.
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Lighter flywheel = less rotational inertia = motor has a harder time maintaining itself at partial throttle. Higher RPM's stabilize it, so at 25 MPH driving through town, you can sit in 2nd gear without any problems. At parking lot speeds of 5-10 MPH, the engine doesn't have enough speed to "stabilize", and you can't shift lower than 1st to increase RPM while maintaining speed.
OP STICK WITH THE 10.9 LB MUHFUGGIN FLYWHEEL.
Wow I think some people have driving problems. Its the clutch that affects engagement, not so much the flywheel. Having driven the same D16 for years and then swapping to an aluminum flywhee, there was NO extra lurch in the parking lot. For reference, my clutch was switched to an Exedy-Daiken Stage-1 clutch. Daiken makes our stock clutch, its stamped on there. In other words, it was an aftermarket purple paint job on what is nearly a stock pressure plate and flywheel. The lightweight flywheel made nearly no difference in clutch engagement. There is some, yes, but its nowhere near as drastic as going with a firmer clutch. Lots of people who claim that are people who's clutch died (or their throwout bearing threw grease on it long ago) and the jumpiness and engagement they are feeling was because the car wasn't driving like it should before the change. The engine will rev faster, yes, but because it will change RPMs easier because of the drop in rotational mass, clutch engagement is more direct, i wouldnt call it harsh, but if you're hard on it, itll be hard back. if you smoothly engage the clutch, its more controlled.
As I said earlier, the "average" lightweight flywheel (usually in the 10-13 pound range) won't have much of a difference over stock. It'll still be manageable in parking lots. There also won't be any realistic, measurable change in how the car operates unless you're a 99% driver, who can get 99% out of yourself, as well as out of the car, on a track. An ultra-lightweight, however, will make a noticeable, measurable change, both on and off the track. I'm not going to stop someone from buying mine, but if I were doing it over again, I wouldn't go that light for anything off the track.
Basically, BE, we're both saying the same thing, I'm just clarifying the ultra-lightweight side of the die.
Basically, BE, we're both saying the same thing, I'm just clarifying the ultra-lightweight side of the die.
I apologize for not responding for awhile for some reason I didn't get notified of replies till just now, but I decided to get the flywheel... My transmission is being rebuilt by jasper engines so I won't be able to test it out till the 17th, but I will let y'all know what I think of it. Let's hope it wasn't a waste of $200.
My H22a loves the Fidanza 8lb... ******* thing is rev-happy as can be!
The reason why people go for light flywheels is simple. For those of us that enjoy rev-matching/heel&toe, it makes things infinitely more fun. With a stock flywheel you have to wait a lot longer for the RPM's to climb, and it's just more fun to drive a car that responds faster. It's almost like a racing car, how the revs climb and fall so quickly... such fun. Some of us prefer a more frantic driving experience.
The reason why people go for light flywheels is simple. For those of us that enjoy rev-matching/heel&toe, it makes things infinitely more fun. With a stock flywheel you have to wait a lot longer for the RPM's to climb, and it's just more fun to drive a car that responds faster. It's almost like a racing car, how the revs climb and fall so quickly... such fun. Some of us prefer a more frantic driving experience.
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immalooser
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Oct 18, 2005 08:08 PM



I bought it originally on misinformation, though. Live and learn. I'll be flipping it when the B is ready to go in.
