Affordable bore gauges $200 budget
hey guys
i want to buy a new bore gauge and i was looking for some reviews, (by people who actually use them) i dont care if its digital or analog. just need to be accurate and repeating. what do you guys know about the Fowler brand? you guys know any other affordable brands?
sterrets and mitutoyos are too expensive for me
thanks
i want to buy a new bore gauge and i was looking for some reviews, (by people who actually use them) i dont care if its digital or analog. just need to be accurate and repeating. what do you guys know about the Fowler brand? you guys know any other affordable brands?
sterrets and mitutoyos are too expensive for me
thanks
Definitely in for this thread as well. Have been looking at purchasing a set that's not overly expensive. Apparently techlock makes a decent set of bore gauges. Seems difficult to find info on, as a lot of the seasoned engine builders tend to lock their methods and tooling down and not post much about it. That and there's so much opposing info.
do not buy digital and do not buy fowler. as a tool maker I will never buy another starret tool either. mitutoyo is the only way to go. asimeto is a decent cheaper alternate brand but fowler is crap.
why you want a dial: you can't see the degree of difference on a digital. on a dial you can see exactly where the needle is between increments.
if budget is a concern a cheaper option would be to purchase a set of telescoping bore/hole gauges and a corresponding micrometer.
here is what the telescope set looks like:

here is a mic set:

you don't have to buy the whole mic set, you can probably just buy the size you need. they come in 1" increments... so a 0-1", 1-2", 2-3", etc.
the nice thing about the telescope guage/mic option is you can get .0001" reading micrometers for the most accurate hand measuring. most bore gauges will only be .001" or .0005" increments, but like I said, having the needle to see where it lands between those increments is an advantage over digital.
aaron
why you want a dial: you can't see the degree of difference on a digital. on a dial you can see exactly where the needle is between increments.
if budget is a concern a cheaper option would be to purchase a set of telescoping bore/hole gauges and a corresponding micrometer.
here is what the telescope set looks like:

here is a mic set:

you don't have to buy the whole mic set, you can probably just buy the size you need. they come in 1" increments... so a 0-1", 1-2", 2-3", etc.
the nice thing about the telescope guage/mic option is you can get .0001" reading micrometers for the most accurate hand measuring. most bore gauges will only be .001" or .0005" increments, but like I said, having the needle to see where it lands between those increments is an advantage over digital.
aaron
Most tools fall under the buy once, cry once rule.
If you plan on building several motors down the road, $200 isn't going to get you very far.
Like aaron said, stay away from the digital gauges and you would also benefit from a certified/spec'd ring gauge to check zero if you use a telescoping type set.
A decent set of mics and a good bore gauge will go a long ways and you get the satisfaction of knowing what your clearances are down to .0001"
Just as an example, the last motor I built the #1-4 main clearances were all .0032-.0035" (blown alcohol sbc). Got to #5 and it was .0054". After looking at the bearings I noticed the top half bearing was very slightly mis-machined as it was .010" too tall. The crush was distorting the bearing and forcing the gap large. Would have never known without good tools and taking the time to check everything.
If you plan on building several motors down the road, $200 isn't going to get you very far.
Like aaron said, stay away from the digital gauges and you would also benefit from a certified/spec'd ring gauge to check zero if you use a telescoping type set.
A decent set of mics and a good bore gauge will go a long ways and you get the satisfaction of knowing what your clearances are down to .0001"
Just as an example, the last motor I built the #1-4 main clearances were all .0032-.0035" (blown alcohol sbc). Got to #5 and it was .0054". After looking at the bearings I noticed the top half bearing was very slightly mis-machined as it was .010" too tall. The crush was distorting the bearing and forcing the gap large. Would have never known without good tools and taking the time to check everything.
I have a fowler gauge I bought for my motors I build.
The first one couldn't repeat a reading for ****. Sent it back and got a replacement and the new one works good.
In the jeff evans videos hes using a fowler gauge I think and a some ebay outside mics.
If you buy telescoping gauges get a good set. I bought some cheap ones and they don't slide smooth enough and the readings aren't accurate.
The first one couldn't repeat a reading for ****. Sent it back and got a replacement and the new one works good.
In the jeff evans videos hes using a fowler gauge I think and a some ebay outside mics.
If you buy telescoping gauges get a good set. I bought some cheap ones and they don't slide smooth enough and the readings aren't accurate.
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I picked up a Mitutoyo bore gauge set off eBay for 130 or so. I snipped it lol its 2-6" and it was like new! Honestly I don't think it was used but only a handful of times. It was awesome for setting bearing clearances.
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