b18c5 not running
Hey guys I recently bought an eg coupe with a b18c5 swap stored the car,for the winter but my winter car decided to die last week. So I put the battery into the car would start to wanna start but one good kick is all she had then I changed the plugs and it ran but not very well I thought maybe my battery but I tried 3 different batteries with each battery having the same result car will start and run also stay running but the instant you shut it off and try to restart it she will not go now and I can't figure it out if anyone's had this problem much help with be appreciated
1. You need to work on sentence structure. Luckily I'm bored so I was able to read that sentence over a couple of times to try and figure out what exactly you're talking about.
2. I acknowledge that you're new, so you need to learn that the content of your post most likely has a forum relevant to it. This particular post belongs in the Hybrid forum, or maybe the All Motor forum. This ITR forum is for those own actual ITR chassis, but since we in this forum are the smartest bunch on HT, we don't mind sometimes helping newbs and drifters out.
So, you said you changed the spark plugs and the car ran, but not very well. Based off the information you provided, it doesn't sound like the battery is your issue. If there was any slight difference when changing the plugs you could perhaps be facing a spark issue. For starters, have you checked the condition of your spark plug wires, the dizzy, cap and rotor? It sounds to me your problem may lie somewhere in there, ignition wise.
Try to post more details in an eligible fashion and maybe someone else or myself will be able to assist you further.
2. I acknowledge that you're new, so you need to learn that the content of your post most likely has a forum relevant to it. This particular post belongs in the Hybrid forum, or maybe the All Motor forum. This ITR forum is for those own actual ITR chassis, but since we in this forum are the smartest bunch on HT, we don't mind sometimes helping newbs and drifters out.
So, you said you changed the spark plugs and the car ran, but not very well. Based off the information you provided, it doesn't sound like the battery is your issue. If there was any slight difference when changing the plugs you could perhaps be facing a spark issue. For starters, have you checked the condition of your spark plug wires, the dizzy, cap and rotor? It sounds to me your problem may lie somewhere in there, ignition wise.
Try to post more details in an eligible fashion and maybe someone else or myself will be able to assist you further.
1. You need to work on sentence structure. Luckily I'm bored so I was able to read that sentence over a couple of times to try and figure out what exactly you're talking about.
2. I acknowledge that you're new, so you need to learn that the content of your post most likely has a forum relevant to it. This particular post belongs in the Hybrid forum, or maybe the All Motor forum. This ITR forum is for those own actual ITR chassis, but since we in this forum are the smartest bunch on HT, we don't mind sometimes helping newbs and drifters out.
So, you said you changed the spark plugs and the car ran, but not very well. Based off the information you provided, it doesn't sound like the battery is your issue. If there was any slight difference when changing the plugs you could perhaps be facing a spark issue. For starters, have you checked the condition of your spark plug wires, the dizzy, cap and rotor? It sounds to me your problem may lie somewhere in there, ignition wise.
Try to post more details in an eligible fashion and maybe someone else or myself will be able to assist you further.
2. I acknowledge that you're new, so you need to learn that the content of your post most likely has a forum relevant to it. This particular post belongs in the Hybrid forum, or maybe the All Motor forum. This ITR forum is for those own actual ITR chassis, but since we in this forum are the smartest bunch on HT, we don't mind sometimes helping newbs and drifters out.
So, you said you changed the spark plugs and the car ran, but not very well. Based off the information you provided, it doesn't sound like the battery is your issue. If there was any slight difference when changing the plugs you could perhaps be facing a spark issue. For starters, have you checked the condition of your spark plug wires, the dizzy, cap and rotor? It sounds to me your problem may lie somewhere in there, ignition wise.
Try to post more details in an eligible fashion and maybe someone else or myself will be able to assist you further.
you dont ever get the urge to tell them wrong forum?
it gets the best of me occasionally..lol..
Sounds like a bad alternator to me. Install a good working battery and then start the car. While the car is running disconnect the battery. If the car turns off your alternator is bad. If the car remains on then you have another issue.
Anyway, I was also thinking the alternator could be a possibility. We need more info.
Sorry bout poor quality sentencing in was dog tired when I wrote that, I checked dizzy and alt today with a brand new battery and it almost fired but then went back to trying to start, half a tank of fuel and I can hear the fuel pump running. Could it be a clogged filter?
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No, believe me, I do, and sometimes it does get the best of me as well. I tend to use discretion. Lately I've been having some issuses with my R and can understand someone who seemed to had made an account souly to reach out for help. I respect anyone who reachs out when they need help, and if he decides to stick around he will learn the rules. I've joined online forums and made an *** of myself. At least he knew B18C5 and the ITR forum have relevance.
Anyway, I was also thinking the alternator could be a possibility. We need more info.
Anyway, I was also thinking the alternator could be a possibility. We need more info.
when it comes to problems like this, i should try not to attempt to help. because if you arent actually there seeing everything, sometimes youre overlooking the obvious.
And OP:
Holy F'ing run-on sentence. Don't expect us to help you when you crap words on the screen and hope for interpretation.
Oh, and this is the wrong forum. Have a nice day
Sorry bout poor quality sentencing in was dog tired when I wrote that, I checked dizzy and alt today with a brand new battery and it almost fired but then went back to trying to start, half a tank of fuel and I can hear the fuel pump running. Could it be a clogged filter?
^
Proper sentence structure.
Hey guys I recently bought an eg coupe with a b18c5 swap stored the car,for the winter but my winter car decided to die last week. So I put the battery into the car would start to wanna start but one good kick is all she had then I changed the plugs and it ran but not very well I thought maybe my battery but I tried 3 different batteries with each battery having the same result car will start and run also stay running but the instant you shut it off and try to restart it she will not go now and I can't figure it out if anyone's had this problem much help with be appreciated
1. Is there a CEL?
2. Have you checked spark at each plug? Do so by taking the plugs and then (one at a time) place the center electrode close to a ground. You can use a screwdriver/etc to extend from close to the center electrode to a ground as well, you want a gap to be able to see the spark though. Have a friend crank it. If you see spark on none of them, check the distributor/ignitor/rotor (the screw can back off and let the rotor come free)/etc, if you see spark on 2, swap plugs and retest, if it's still pad swap wire locations on the cap and retest, etc. Basic troubleshooting to narrow done which part is bad. Also, check the plugs to see what they look like, you can tell a bit from them.
3. Check fuel, initially pull off the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, put the open end into a bottle and have a friend turn the key. If fuel shoots out you know it's good up until that point. If no fuel shoots out then you have a fueling problem, check main relay, fuses, pump, filter, etc. If you have fuel then continue.
4. Check timing belt, if it jumped enough teeth it won't start.
5. If cam/crank timing is good, check to see if the fuel injectors are working. You'll have to pull them to easily test.
6. Check compression/leakdown.
Not the best way to test it. It's bad for the alternator. Not saying that I haven't done so.. but testing equipment (dmm to check voltage will show if it's that bad... full test to see amperage) would be better but a good battery will start the car even with a bad alt, and he's tried three so I doubt it's the battery at this point.
You never reply to these unless someone makes a stink about it. Otherwise, you know other forums serve these questions best.
And in this case...this is a general motor issue and it matters little that the motor is even from an ITR. Actually (as is the case a lot of the times), a lot of this is related to the process of the swap itself.
But to add to this, OP--did you bother to put fresh gas in the car? Basic troubleshooting is the key here.
You never reply to these unless someone makes a stink about it. Otherwise, you know other forums serve these questions best.
And in this case...this is a general motor issue and it matters little that the motor is even from an ITR. Actually (as is the case a lot of the times), a lot of this is related to the process of the swap itself.
But to add to this, OP--did you bother to put fresh gas in the car? Basic troubleshooting is the key here.
And in this case...this is a general motor issue and it matters little that the motor is even from an ITR. Actually (as is the case a lot of the times), a lot of this is related to the process of the swap itself.
But to add to this, OP--did you bother to put fresh gas in the car? Basic troubleshooting is the key here.
The only reason the hybrid or all motor forums might be better is because the guy wouldn't have to go through dumb posts bitching about his chassis code. Otherwise I'd expect people who own B18C5's to be the best place to answer a question about a B18C5. Unless you are suggesting that the overall level of technical knowledge in the ITR subforum has dropped drastically. I wouldn't know.
Good call on the gas, he didn't mention how long it sat. I've let B18C's sit for many months without issue (in the case of the race car we drove it on old gas.. approx 3 year old gas) but I've had other cars (both of my SE-Rs) kill off their fuel pumps from sitting in bad gas for as little as 6 months.
Its running again the main problem was the retarded redneck that did the swap before me didnt properly do the battery connections the ground was hanging by a thread off the tranny and I also noticed the fuel line had a nice little leak all fixed and kicking ***. BTW you ITR chassis ***** when someone asks for help you HELP not go OMG OMG OMG hes on the wrong pages OMGS NOES, Instead of being a complete ****** maybe you could have helped but Thanks and much appreiction to Dave-RoR you helped me figure it out along with the others who didnt bitch at me those who did can take a SUCK on my EG type R
Its running again the main problem was the retarded redneck that did the swap before me didnt properly do the battery connections the ground was hanging by a thread off the tranny and I also noticed the fuel line had a nice little leak all fixed and kicking ***. BTW you ITR chassis ***** when someone asks for help you HELP not go OMG OMG OMG hes on the wrong pages OMGS NOES, Instead of being a complete ****** maybe you could have helped but Thanks and much appreiction to Dave-RoR you helped me figure it out along with the others who didnt bitch at me those who did can take a SUCK on my EG type R
Might be a good idea to do a general check up to see what else the guy might have overlooked/screwed up, for your own safety and like someone else mentioned the problem could probably have something to do with the swap process, and what do you know, they were right.
Interesting...not much more needs to be said I suppose.
The only reason the hybrid or all motor forums might be better is because the guy wouldn't have to go through dumb posts bitching about his chassis code. Otherwise I'd expect people who own B18C5's to be the best place to answer a question about a B18C5. Unless you are suggesting that the overall level of technical knowledge in the ITR subforum has dropped drastically. I wouldn't know.
Good call on the gas, he didn't mention how long it sat. I've let B18C's sit for many months without issue (in the case of the race car we drove it on old gas.. approx 3 year old gas) but I've had other cars (both of my SE-Rs) kill off their fuel pumps from sitting in bad gas for as little as 6 months.
while i have yanked the engine out of mine around 5-6 times, i pulled the one out of my ls-turbo once or twice too....ive helped friends do swaps as well.
funny thing is i mentioned that if you arent there you arent doing the OP any favors by chiming in because it could be something quite obvious you are overlooking and look where it all ended up...what if you spend hours trying to make sure it isnt some problem some guy on honda-tech told you COULD be the problem when it was something embarassingly simple?
funny thing is i mentioned that if you arent there you arent doing the OP any favors by chiming in because it could be something quite obvious you are overlooking and look where it all ended up...what if you spend hours trying to make sure it isnt some problem some guy on honda-tech told you COULD be the problem when it was something embarassingly simple?
Ignore all the "wahhh it's not an ITR chassis" whiners.
1. Is there a CEL?
2. Have you checked spark at each plug? Do so by taking the plugs and then (one at a time) place the center electrode close to a ground. You can use a screwdriver/etc to extend from close to the center electrode to a ground as well, you want a gap to be able to see the spark though. Have a friend crank it. If you see spark on none of them, check the distributor/ignitor/rotor (the screw can back off and let the rotor come free)/etc, if you see spark on 2, swap plugs and retest, if it's still pad swap wire locations on the cap and retest, etc. Basic troubleshooting to narrow done which part is bad. Also, check the plugs to see what they look like, you can tell a bit from them.
3. Check fuel, initially pull off the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, put the open end into a bottle and have a friend turn the key. If fuel shoots out you know it's good up until that point. If no fuel shoots out then you have a fueling problem, check main relay, fuses, pump, filter, etc. If you have fuel then continue.
4. Check timing belt, if it jumped enough teeth it won't start.
5. If cam/crank timing is good, check to see if the fuel injectors are working. You'll have to pull them to easily test.
6. Check compression/leakdown.
1. Is there a CEL?
2. Have you checked spark at each plug? Do so by taking the plugs and then (one at a time) place the center electrode close to a ground. You can use a screwdriver/etc to extend from close to the center electrode to a ground as well, you want a gap to be able to see the spark though. Have a friend crank it. If you see spark on none of them, check the distributor/ignitor/rotor (the screw can back off and let the rotor come free)/etc, if you see spark on 2, swap plugs and retest, if it's still pad swap wire locations on the cap and retest, etc. Basic troubleshooting to narrow done which part is bad. Also, check the plugs to see what they look like, you can tell a bit from them.
3. Check fuel, initially pull off the line from the fuel filter to the fuel rail, put the open end into a bottle and have a friend turn the key. If fuel shoots out you know it's good up until that point. If no fuel shoots out then you have a fueling problem, check main relay, fuses, pump, filter, etc. If you have fuel then continue.
4. Check timing belt, if it jumped enough teeth it won't start.
5. If cam/crank timing is good, check to see if the fuel injectors are working. You'll have to pull them to easily test.
6. Check compression/leakdown.
Once, I was attempting a piston soak and I didn't disconnect the plug, from the distributor.
With the plugs out, I turned over the engine.
I put the plugs back in.
When I couldn't start the car, I tried your step #2, one plug at a time.
No spark.
Later, I was told not to ever crank the engine with the/a plug out and that this spark check would not work on an Integra. This would only fry the coil.
I don't pretend to understand what caused me to add to my troubles, but can you actually pull a plug out and test for spark, as you describe above?
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From: Howcome we park on driveways, and drive on parkways?
So if this was a problem from the "retarded redneck" who did the swap, how did it run before you "stored" it for winter? If it was running with no problems like this during the summer and/or fall, how could it be anything on the person before you? I bet that retarded redneck can at least put a damn sentence together.
Sounds like some "retarded redneck" on YOUR part.
Also love how you are coming in for answers with arms out... help me help me...
Then you get your answer and somehow learn how to write a tad better, then turn into the hulk getting all mouthy. "SUCK on my EG Type R"

Enjoy your car and best of luck.
as Paul said get the **** out.......
Sounds like some "retarded redneck" on YOUR part.
Also love how you are coming in for answers with arms out... help me help me...
Then you get your answer and somehow learn how to write a tad better, then turn into the hulk getting all mouthy. "SUCK on my EG Type R"

Enjoy your car and best of luck.
as Paul said get the **** out.......




