3rd gear grind
I recently bought a '90 Integra GS B18A1 for $2000. The guy told me 3rd gear did grind and I did some research and am almost sure that its a synchro. I don't have the money to do a rebuild at the moment but I have heard of fluids to put in the transmission to help the problem. If you would help me out as in which kind of fluids would be best for the transmission for my car, it would be greatly appreciated. This is my first car and I don't know much about them too be honest.
It needs more than a synchro.
Any fluid is just a band aid and doesn't actually help the problem.
You need to fix it as soon as you can or you risk more damage (if it hasn't already been done).
Any fluid is just a band aid and doesn't actually help the problem.
You need to fix it as soon as you can or you risk more damage (if it hasn't already been done).
How much do you think a garage would charge me to rebuild the transmission if I bought the kit?
A kit isn't likely to have the parts you actually need to fix the grind. What you're likely going to need is a 3rd/4th hub, sleeve, 3rd gear synchro sleeve and maybe 3rd gear itself. The synchros may or may not need replacing as well. As far as buying the kit, a transmission shop will usually be able to get it cheaper than you can buy it anyway.
I'm a glass half full kind of guy. The half full part being that the mainshaft 3rd gear, hub, slider, synchro, and shift fork might not all be destroyed yet.
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It's not a bad grind. It just grinds a little going into 3rd. Everything is fine once the clutch is out. It worsens at high RPMS and other gears grind to. Like if I tack out at 7000rpm and shift from 1st to second it will grind and go into gear same for 4th. Driving in the city I usually just go from second to 4th to save 3rd gear from worsening.
Originally Posted by FearKnot
It's not a bad grind. It just grinds a little going into 3rd. Everything is fine once the clutch is out. It worsens at high RPMS and other gears grind to. Like if I tack out at 7000rpm and shift from 1st to second it will grind and go into gear same for 4th. Driving in the city I usually just go from second to 4th to save 3rd gear from worsening.
Ultimately, its your car and you know your budget and how much you'd throw at repairs at any certain time better than any of us do. With that said, you just have to understand it's not going to magically get better without replacing actual mechanical components. And by skipping 3rd, you're actually asking the 4th synchro to work harder than it otherwise would coming from 3rd, which could increase its wear rate; causing it to wear out quicker than normal. Just a heads up.
Haha! Truth.
If it's only just beginning and it's caught in time, a ~$50 synchro is cheaper than $300+ in gear, sleeve, hub, etc. Of course, you may have to replace those anyhow. :p
Ultimately, its your car and you know your budget and how much you'd throw at repairs at any certain time better than any of us do. With that said, you just have to understand it's not going to magically get better without replacing actual mechanical components. And by skipping 3rd, you're actually asking the 4th synchro to work harder than it otherwise would coming from 3rd, which could increase its wear rate; causing it to wear out quicker than normal. Just a heads up.
If it's only just beginning and it's caught in time, a ~$50 synchro is cheaper than $300+ in gear, sleeve, hub, etc. Of course, you may have to replace those anyhow. :p
Ultimately, its your car and you know your budget and how much you'd throw at repairs at any certain time better than any of us do. With that said, you just have to understand it's not going to magically get better without replacing actual mechanical components. And by skipping 3rd, you're actually asking the 4th synchro to work harder than it otherwise would coming from 3rd, which could increase its wear rate; causing it to wear out quicker than normal. Just a heads up.
I always use all OEM bearings and seals unless they're not in the customers budget, in which case I use the Synchrotech rebuild kit (it uses OE bearings and OEM seals). Tear it down and find out what needs to be replaced before ordering anything.
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