1996 Honda Accord Wagon resto-build thread
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Hi all,
I since not so long am the proud owner of a 1996 Honda Accord Wagon.
(French-Build in the US)
I will be fixing it up and most likely enhance it's looks in the future.
These cars are pretty rare over here and am happy I found one.
Here are some specs:
Gearbox: 5 Speed manual
Motor: 2Ltr - F20B3
Brakes: Disc front and back.
Km : 250.000.000
My first issue is that all the rubber on the front and rear suspension are dried out and worn so I will be replacing all of those.
I will also be replacing the ball joints for the steering unit.
And one of the front bearings is worn (right side) so I got a SKF replacement bearing for that and will be replacing it.
Another issue I have when I did the road test and when they tested my brakes they said my right rear was breaking 50% less then my left.
The car has been standing still for a while and I now have changed the pads on it.
Can anybody tell me what can cause such a huge difference in the rear brakes?
Pictures will follow asap...
I since not so long am the proud owner of a 1996 Honda Accord Wagon.
(French-Build in the US)
I will be fixing it up and most likely enhance it's looks in the future.
These cars are pretty rare over here and am happy I found one.
Here are some specs:
Gearbox: 5 Speed manual
Motor: 2Ltr - F20B3
Brakes: Disc front and back.
Km : 250.000.000
My first issue is that all the rubber on the front and rear suspension are dried out and worn so I will be replacing all of those.
I will also be replacing the ball joints for the steering unit.
And one of the front bearings is worn (right side) so I got a SKF replacement bearing for that and will be replacing it.
Another issue I have when I did the road test and when they tested my brakes they said my right rear was breaking 50% less then my left.
The car has been standing still for a while and I now have changed the pads on it.
Can anybody tell me what can cause such a huge difference in the rear brakes?
Pictures will follow asap...
Last edited by BeastlyB; Jun 11, 2014 at 02:04 PM.
Bubbling in the brake line (instead of the fluid pushing the piston its making "bubbles" in the worn hose), air trapped in the lines, the calipers themselves.
Check the fluid, if it's dark/water in it/high in cpper content flush the whole system.
Look over the lines for visual signs of issues.
Have someone press the brakes while you look to find any possible bubbling.
if nothing is found move on to bleeding the brakes, noting any air regardless of which wheel it came from.
at last if that doesnt change anything, pinch the rear lines off from the rest of the system and remove the rear calipers and inspect them. If you plan on removing the caliper's piston(s) put a block of wood infront of the caliper and then blow hi-pressure air into its inlet. This will shoot the piston out and prevent you from making a rocket out of it. after all is said and done, whether you replace the calipers or not, bleed the brake system again. (You will also need new copper washers for the brake hose connection to the caliper, reusing the old ones can result in leaks).
Check the fluid, if it's dark/water in it/high in cpper content flush the whole system.
Look over the lines for visual signs of issues.
Have someone press the brakes while you look to find any possible bubbling.
if nothing is found move on to bleeding the brakes, noting any air regardless of which wheel it came from.
at last if that doesnt change anything, pinch the rear lines off from the rest of the system and remove the rear calipers and inspect them. If you plan on removing the caliper's piston(s) put a block of wood infront of the caliper and then blow hi-pressure air into its inlet. This will shoot the piston out and prevent you from making a rocket out of it. after all is said and done, whether you replace the calipers or not, bleed the brake system again. (You will also need new copper washers for the brake hose connection to the caliper, reusing the old ones can result in leaks).
Bleed the brakes first in the order of, Driver Rear > Passenger Front and Passenger Rear > Driver Front. The system is diagonally split.
Check for leaks, cracking hoses, and wet spots.
Verify that when the hand brake is OFF make sure that the lever(#24) rests against the pin on the caliper.

If the lever does not return to rest on the pin, make sure there is no corrosion causing the shaft to stick. If need be exercise the shaft all the way against the pin several times. If the lever does not rest on the pin with the hand brake off the self adjuster inside the caliper piston will not work.
If the shaft/lever does easily return to the at rest position check that the return spring(#25/34) has enough tension to do so. If not replace the return spring.
If the lever does return to rest on the pin, with the engine on and hand brake off, pump the brake pedal 3-4 times firmly. If the self adjusters are working they will take up the space required when pumping the pedal.
If the rear pad is not close to the disc with no hand brake or pedal depressed, and no leaks/new fluid, the self adjuster inside the piston(#9) may be seized and need replacement.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Thanks for those tips guys, much appreciated.
DLF, I will follow your strategy and some of the other tips I received.
I will be back home in about 2 weeks and keep things updated here when I can.
Mad Mike, Good tip on the balljoints.
I was going to do them all at one and guess you are right I best get another bearing too as the bearings are still the original ones.
I did not know about this 'self adjuster' and will check if it functions properly.
This also seems like a plausible explanation as to why it is not working properly.
Unfortunately I can not see the image you provided in the post,
not sure if it is the computer I am using here or if something wen't wrong.
Thank you both for your time and willingness to help me out.
DLF, I will follow your strategy and some of the other tips I received.
I will be back home in about 2 weeks and keep things updated here when I can.
Mad Mike, Good tip on the balljoints.
I was going to do them all at one and guess you are right I best get another bearing too as the bearings are still the original ones.
I did not know about this 'self adjuster' and will check if it functions properly.
This also seems like a plausible explanation as to why it is not working properly.
Unfortunately I can not see the image you provided in the post,
not sure if it is the computer I am using here or if something wen't wrong.
Thank you both for your time and willingness to help me out.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Here are some pictures of the old girl.
She is presenting me with some new issues since the windscreen wipers do not stop anymore.
Every time I turn the ignition on they start working....searching for a fix as we speak...


Some other issues I am not sure what to do about since parts are non existent here in France (or Europe)
Was not there when I bought it.

Clueless what to do about this as I can not find replacement parts anywhere (world):



She is presenting me with some new issues since the windscreen wipers do not stop anymore.
Every time I turn the ignition on they start working....searching for a fix as we speak...


Some other issues I am not sure what to do about since parts are non existent here in France (or Europe)
Was not there when I bought it.

Clueless what to do about this as I can not find replacement parts anywhere (world):



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Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Anybody any clue where you can get these window rubbers etc,?
Also looking for right rear roof rack cover as shown missing in the picture above.
Here is what I changed now:
258.518 Km --- Honda Accord Wagon
Right Front Bearing: SKF VKBA 3250*
Right side lower Balljoint: TRW - JBJ 152
Front disc pads: BREMBO P 28 026
Rear disc pads: BOSCH 0 986 461 006
Tie rod end Left: MAPCO 19504
Tie rod end Right: MAPCO 19505
Control Arm upper left : DELPHI TC1043
Control Arm upper right : DELPHI TC1044
Rod/Strut, stabiliser rubbers and bolt set: TRW JTS 252
Oil Filter: BOSCH F 026 407 077
Oil: Castrol 5W40
Air Filter: BOSCH 1 457 433 970
Changed heating control unit on the dashboard
More to come but finally able to get the ball rolling again
*former owner told me the other bearing had been done before I bought it.
Also looking for right rear roof rack cover as shown missing in the picture above.
Here is what I changed now:
258.518 Km --- Honda Accord Wagon
Right Front Bearing: SKF VKBA 3250*
Right side lower Balljoint: TRW - JBJ 152
Front disc pads: BREMBO P 28 026
Rear disc pads: BOSCH 0 986 461 006
Tie rod end Left: MAPCO 19504
Tie rod end Right: MAPCO 19505
Control Arm upper left : DELPHI TC1043
Control Arm upper right : DELPHI TC1044
Rod/Strut, stabiliser rubbers and bolt set: TRW JTS 252
Oil Filter: BOSCH F 026 407 077
Oil: Castrol 5W40
Air Filter: BOSCH 1 457 433 970
Changed heating control unit on the dashboard
More to come but finally able to get the ball rolling again

*former owner told me the other bearing had been done before I bought it.
not sure if they ship int'l but majestic honda has all honda parts at great prices
http://www.majestichonda.com/
also has full layouts of components for reference
http://www.majestichonda.com/
also has full layouts of components for reference
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Thank you Sir.
Mike also pointed me in their direction and Rockauto,
I actually ordered new axles etc, and am waiting for them to arrive here in France.
Mike also pointed me in their direction and Rockauto,
I actually ordered new axles etc, and am waiting for them to arrive here in France.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Finally received my axles (Surtrack)..ordered one of each side not to have to pay postage twice.
Changed the Axles, Power steering fluid, brake fluid, Air filter.
Oil and Oil filter will be done this week.
After that a Manual transmission fluid change/wash and she will be good to go for a while.
Had been struggling with some weird issues with my wipers which would start working as soon as I turn the ignition on.
After reading posts about all kinds of "fixes" non of which worked for me until I read about the integrated control unit.
I now have changed this and the wipers work again as they should.
Changed the Axles, Power steering fluid, brake fluid, Air filter.
Oil and Oil filter will be done this week.
After that a Manual transmission fluid change/wash and she will be good to go for a while.
Had been struggling with some weird issues with my wipers which would start working as soon as I turn the ignition on.
After reading posts about all kinds of "fixes" non of which worked for me until I read about the integrated control unit.
I now have changed this and the wipers work again as they should.
not sure if they ship int'l but majestic honda has all honda parts at great prices
http://www.majestichonda.com/
also has full layouts of components for reference
http://www.majestichonda.com/
also has full layouts of components for reference
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Aug 2012
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Brazil, SC, Florianopolis
Thanks again for all the help guys.
Forced to sell it due to moving to Brazil, it is illegal to import second hand cars to Brazil...
She has been sold to a Honda Aficionado..that is the only good news about it
Forced to sell it due to moving to Brazil, it is illegal to import second hand cars to Brazil...
She has been sold to a Honda Aficionado..that is the only good news about it
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