I got a swapped 1995 honda civic with a b16A in it, now the car ran fine when i bought it but then i I did a rebuild, new sleeves, new pistons, seals etc. but now the car wont turn on it, it turns over does brup brup brup like its going to stay on but then dies.

You can hear the fuel injectors spraying fuel when you put the switch to the on position, the battery and spark plugs are also new, I know there are A LOT of reasons why it wont stay on but maybe you guys can mention something I miss or had a similar problem?

I was thinking maybe the Timing is off but if that's the case it would at least turn on wouldn't it? all connections and ground are also fine (took pictures and documented it before we took it apart.)
As I said I'm a bit lost at this point.. it feels like its not getting fuel IMO but as far as i can tell fuel injectors are working fine and sprays fuel.

Any help is greatly appreciated!

 

If you're worried about fuel then check fuel pressure..

If you're worried the timing is off, check the timing belt markings and spark timing..

do b16 use the common ground on the tstat housing? I know I missed it on my D when I put it back together, car won't start without it.

Recheck all your electrical plugs

check compression since u just had it apart and its a quick test

 

Timing belt markings and spark timing are fine, ground on tstat housing is also connected, electrical plugs have all been cleaned and connected. I haven't checked fuel pressure so that's next.

 

Moisture in the distributor cap? Distrubutor has a broken rotor driver? Distributor put on 180° off? Yes its possible. If you had to force the distributor on...it's probably the issue.

Check your firing order again also.

 

Our cars need three thing to run, fuel, spark, and air/compression.
Narrow it down to one then go from there.

I would check to see if you have spark, then fuel pressure, air is next check vaccuum lines i would also check compression grounds is a big thing too.

You just swapped your motor so im sure its just something small

 

Compression test the cylinders.

 

Still nothing I'm out of ideas... compression is fine, spark, fuel, timing, ground wires.. everything is plugged in except for the radiator (difficult to keep working on the engine with it hooked up) that shouldn't be a problem right? can sensors cause this? or should it start even if there is a problem with one?.. We managed to get it started for 2 or 3 seconds but then it dies again right after, It wont stay on.

 

So we've been doing the compression test wrong... turns out its not fine. I get 9 bars on all 4 cylinders. Should it still be able to start even that low? Its at the minimum so technically it should still be able to start right?

 

9 bars = 130 PSI

I think the compression is okay. If you want to do more, you could redo the test after adding a tablespoon of motor oil to each cylinder.

Also do the test at WOT with the hood ECU fuse removed..

 

I wasn't able to do the test with the ECU fuse removed as I had only borrowed the compression tool from someone, but I saw my CEL on and its throwing code 6 which is the ECT sensor but it is plugged in. Could a bad ECT sensor stop the car from starting? I tried searching around and some people say it can and some say it can't stop the engine from starting.

Also can my MAP sensor cause this? its no throwing a code but its not even plugged in (the connector broke off the harness).

 

compression tested. a little over 9 bars on all four cylinders. fuel pump primes when i turn the switch on. all ground wires are connected. timing is correct, firing order is correct. the car has a monotech ecu in it. was running fine before engine rebuild. is there anything that could have changed while rebuilding that the ecu is sending too much fuel for example?

if i where to take the turbo and intercooler off and put on the stock injectors would i be able so start. when the engine turns over right now it starts and dies immediately. when i take out the spark plugs i get fuel on them.

 

h

 

It has the same ecu as before the build, does it have a basemap for the larger injectors? Also get the MAP sensor connected.

 

Make sure u didn't mix up the plug sensors that are plugged in. Double check ur plug wire colors to ur sensors

 

Didn't read where u had ur map sensor disconnected. Connect ur map sensor!
Also u have low compression cause u haven't sealed the rings yet

 

So just to let everyone know, I got it started... after having to bore the cylinder again because the first time they did it wrong, the machine they used bored the cylinder wider at the bottom then at the top that's why i was having low compression.

Anyway, got everything in place and fired it up again had the same problem as before at this point i was done i almost gave up... but i noticed a couple of cut wires on the back of the intake manifold. Turns out the little black MAP sensor at the top of the throttle body that I thought needed to be connected was damaged! and the owners of the car before me used an aftermarket AEM MAP sensor at the back of the Intake manifold that I did not even see! *feels stupid*

Long story short, after connecting that MAP sensor the car started up fine! lesson learned... connect ALL the sensors on an engine no matter how small or what people tell you!

 

Glad u got it worked out