hello i have a 92 cx with a z6/b7 mini me the bottom end is fully rebuilt has 8 miles on it the issue im having is the car runs great idles right around 900 rpms when cold once the temp gauge moves up past the first line by cold if you push the clutch in or leave it out and rev the engine at all and let off the gas the car drops to about 150-200 rpms or sometimes just dies all together i bought a new chipped ecu from phearable.net as my other ecu was toast this ecu has no engine lights nothing wrong with it at all ive cleaned the iacv and fitv its got a brand new fuel pump and filter.... im just stumped on this one its been 3 months of just beating my self up to figure it out.........


ive got it narrowed down to distributor, timing (which i know very little about), evap purge solenoid, fuel pressure regulator, bad ground wire, clutch/throw out bearing........

anyone else think it might be anything listed above? i have a brand new clutch and bearing havent put it in yet im ordering a new pressure regulator with a gauge on it for the hell of it....... any help is really appreciated and thanks in advance

 

Just as an initial thought, once warmed up did you ever adjust the idle? I believe there is a procedure for that. I haven't had to do it so am not intimately familiar with it.

If it runs well just idles dropping too low once it warms up, I doubt your timing is off or are having ignition issues.

The Factory Service Manual instructions for idle adjustment on 92-95 civics. Should apply to the Z6 being a OBD1 92-95 head.

http://s267.photobucket.com/user/Ron..._3365.jpg.html

Thanks to RonJ for publishing it.

 

yes the idle has been adjusted numerous times following the helms manual the car when taking off from a complete stop in first gear has absolutely no power at all no matter how much gas you give it iuntil it hits around 1500 - 2k rpms then its got all its power

 

that is what led me to believe it might be clutch related

 

Well there is an easy way to test for clutch slippage. Nabbed from google:

To check for Clutch Slippage in your driveway or a
parking lot-

1. Check and adjust clutch pedal free travel (not necessary with a self
adjusting clutch cable)

2. Warm up the engine to operating temperature, BLOCK the wheels,
and apply the parking brake completely.

3. Shift the transmission into its highest gear and let out the clutch
pedal in a smooth, normal manner. The engine should stall
immediately- a delay would indicate slow engagement and slipping.


To check for Clutch Slippage on a road test (or empty
parking lot)-

1. Check and adjust clutch pedal free travel (not necessary with a self
adjusting clutch cable).

2. Drive to an area with very little traffic. Accelerate slowly and
drive at 15 to 20mph (24 to 32kph) in the highest transmission gear.
Use the lowest speed at which the vehicle will operate smoothly.

3. Depress the accelerator completely to make a wide-open throttle
acceleration, and listen to the engine rpm or watch the tachometer.
The engine should increase steadily as the vehicle speeds up.
Any clutch slipping will occur as the engine enters its power band, where
it produces maximum torque, around 1500 to 3000rpm, depending on
engine design. If the engine speed flares upward, the clutch is
slipping and needs service. Slipping becomes even more evident if
this test is made while driving up an incline.

Essentially the change in RPM should always match the change in speed. If the clutch is slipping the RPM will jump with little to no change in speed.

On another note though, your clutch would have nothing to do with the low idle and stalls once the car warms up.

 

As for cleaning your fitv and iacv did you adjust your fitv?
When you drive does it hesitate or feels like its lacking some air when your cruising? Then if you do iacv is bad another sign is when your idle is playing. I had some issues like this before but it was fixed by changing my iacv. Its kinda pricey but little cleaning or borrowing someone that has the same car as you is not gona hurt

 

Spark plugs and wires???

 

i didn't know you posted about your car, my thread got closed, but i'm following this one.. I really have a feeling the mechanical timing is off now that i think about it..

 

What ECU are you using?

 

phearable.net chipped ecu ive cleaned and swapped the iacv multiple times as well as throttle bodies

 

You never replied whether you cleaned and adjusted your FITV. I'm pretty sure the Z6 was pre 96 so should have the FITV present.

Also if you milled the head and block and swapped to the thinner MLS head gasket you could potentially be a half of a tooth off on your mechinical timing.

 

it is a thinner head gasket it didnt get milled at all the fitv was cleaned as well sorry i must have missed that part

 

You need to check both mechanical timing and ignition timing. Unfortunately you said you don't know much about them. In the FAQ sticky at the top of this forum you can find some really great write ups about both and go to town.

I suspect it will clear up your issues without throwing more parts at it that you probably don't need.

 

i hope so lol im getting to the point of just getting rid of it after this 4 month battle ill do some timing research and see what happens

 

Is your check engine light on?

 

no its not

 

just some feedback on this situation it ended up being the dizzy cap was all corroded previous owner drilled a hole in the dizzy case and left it unplugged for some reason i upgraded to an msd blaster ss external coil and modified dizzy cap no more problems thanks everyone for the help