What do you have YOUR Z10 radius arms adjusted to?
Just threw mine in tonight. I have them set at 2 turns counter clockwise (whichever extends the arm length). Im still experiencing some wheel hop. Just wondering what the rest of you run at.
Thanks
-Nick-
Thanks
-Nick-
i'm actually curious on how they work....do they still alow suspension travel "up and down" or stops the control arm from moving.. or does it just stop the caster from moving "mainly bushings from front to back" or i'm I on the wrong page....
since i have an EK with h22a civic.. the custom front cross member doesn't allow it so i may have to build exensions to use and build up on it aswell..
since i have an EK with h22a civic.. the custom front cross member doesn't allow it so i may have to build exensions to use and build up on it aswell..
They prevent excessive and variable caster during hard launches, it holds the lca preventing them from "floating". Up and down movement is not supposed to be limited. I would personally have them adjusted tight, pulling foward, rather than pushing. Radius arms would be so simple, for anyone that can weld, to build. I think that you can find someone that will put them on your front cross member.
are these ment for stock heights or modified heights (lowered car)
is this streetable or not really... i'm trying to visualize the suspension travel from the pictures i got from the site...
is this streetable or not really... i'm trying to visualize the suspension travel from the pictures i got from the site...
My car is lowered on Eibach Pro-Kits and it is 100% streetable. If you are dumped like 3-4 inches, i could see clearance being an issue...
-Nick-
-Nick-
the turns leed to be tightning the arm, that is why you still have hop. Jack the car up on one side where the wheel is off the ground. Then adjust the arm the closest you can get to neutral load. Tighten two turns from there and lower. (mark the turns with a marker, makes it easier).
Repeat for the other side, get them as close as possible
drive the car, see how you like the driving feel.
Practice dumping the clutch, you will more than likely have to adjust slightly from the RPM that you normally launch at, since traction issus are being changeed, and depending on hop versus spin, adjust them up or down in 1/4 turns until you are happy with it. Tightning takes away the wheel hop, but tighting too fdar will bring it right back 2 and a half turns is average for any car.
Repeat for the other side, get them as close as possible
drive the car, see how you like the driving feel.
Practice dumping the clutch, you will more than likely have to adjust slightly from the RPM that you normally launch at, since traction issus are being changeed, and depending on hop versus spin, adjust them up or down in 1/4 turns until you are happy with it. Tightning takes away the wheel hop, but tighting too fdar will bring it right back 2 and a half turns is average for any car.
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so basically tightenning to much can actually bring the wheel spin back ???
I would need pics of an install since my issue will be worse h22a in an EK... with lsd... so i'm going to get major traction issues and wheel hop which i don't want to constantly break axels.. so any info on this would greatly help since i have to custom build mine because of the front mount.... also possibly do custom ones that will support the front and the rear sides of the front control arms.. or that's not really possible...
I would need pics of an install since my issue will be worse h22a in an EK... with lsd... so i'm going to get major traction issues and wheel hop which i don't want to constantly break axels.. so any info on this would greatly help since i have to custom build mine because of the front mount.... also possibly do custom ones that will support the front and the rear sides of the front control arms.. or that's not really possible...
that's why i'm inquiring .. because of the front crossmember 4thmount i'll have to custom build some... i know it can be done but i'm wondering about adjustments ..
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