Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000) EG/EH/EJ/EK/EM1 Discussion

Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:17 AM
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Default Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

So I'm doing the struts on my 94 Civic. I'm at an impass on the rears.

The lower mount bolts (bolt goes thru the strut bracket and bushing in the LCA) are totally siezed into the bushings in the LCA.

I heated one side up glowing red and tried to get it free (sledge hammer, impact and then breaker bar). All I managed to do was ruin the bushing.

If I cut the head off the bolt and get the strut out of the way, think I would be able to use a ball joint press to get the old bushing out and new one back in with the LCA still on the car?

As this point I'm afraid to try removing the LCA completely as the other bolts are probably seized too.

I also came across this http://www.energysuspensionparts.com...p?prod=16.8103

They appear to be two piece poly bushings. If they'll work, I can cut my bolts, press/cut the old bushings out, and use these to put it back together.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:31 AM
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Default Re: Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

cut the bolt off. Replace the bolt and the bushing.

Es bushings are fine, and a piece of cake to install. The problem is getting the old bushing out. Those inner sleeves can be a major pain to get out.

Before attempting the others soak them in a good penetrating lube, like Aero-kroil.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:37 AM
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Default Re: Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

Originally Posted by 98civdx
cut the bolt off. Replace the bolt and the bushing.

Es bushings are fine, and a piece of cake to install. The problem is getting the old bushing out. Those inner sleeves can be a major pain to get out.

Before attempting the others soak them in a good penetrating lube, like Aero-kroil.
Does the sleeve need to come out? I was talking to a buddy that used a similar product on his jeep, those ones you just remove the rubber and leave the sleeve in place. Either way I think this is my solution.

Think one of those C clamp type ball joint presses would press the old sleeve out?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=557231_0_0_

Also any idea what diameter bolt it is? Hopefully I can something grade 8 at the hardware store vs finding the OEM part.
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Old Feb 8, 2014 | 11:52 AM
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Default Re: Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

You burn it out.... pressing it in will be a pain remember to "clock" it tho or it will be short lived.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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Default Re: Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

Originally Posted by scoob8000
Does the sleeve need to come out? I was talking to a buddy that used a similar product on his jeep, those ones you just remove the rubber and leave the sleeve in place. Either way I think this is my solution.

Think one of those C clamp type ball joint presses would press the old sleeve out?
http://www.autozone.com/autozone/acc...er=557231_0_0_

Also any idea what diameter bolt it is? Hopefully I can something grade 8 at the hardware store vs finding the OEM part.
in most cases they do need to come. I would check the directions to see if removal of the ring is required for the rear control arms. I haven't used those, so I don't know for sure.

if it's anything like the front lowers, they need to come out and it's a BITCH.

Front lower rings: The one that is really smashed took me almost 2 hours of pounding on it to get it out. My 20 ton press wouldn't budge any of them.


for the ES bushings, the bushing slips right in but the metal ring can be kind of a challenge. Hit it with a hammer and it will go in.

Originally Posted by B_Swapped93
You burn it out.... pressing it in will be a pain remember to "clock" it tho or it will be short lived.
Burn the bushing out, yes, but that won't do anything for the inner ring.
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Old Feb 9, 2014 | 01:46 PM
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Default Re: Rear strut lower mount bolt / bushing issues

Usually the other 2 bolts will come out, it's the shock bolt that gives you the most grief. If you can get the arm out burn out the old bushing, take a hacksaw, remove the blade and put it through the ring, reattach the handle to it, cut through the ring in two places about 1/4" apart, use a hammer and chisel to knock the ring out.

Personally I don't care for the ES stuff, I'd rather have OEM rubber, but you can use whichever you prefer.
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