Problem: No spark coming from distributor to sparkplugs/wires.

What I have done: Bought a new distributor *TD61* that replaced the one that blew up *inside shaft got destroyed by loose screws*.

What I have tested: All fuses in car are good. All grounds in car are good. Checked all wires going to both external coil and dizzy and all are good.

Misc Info: So what happened was I was driving to work when I had a sudden violent shudder go through my car and an engine light pop on. I was able to keep driving the car but with a shudder every once in a while while the care ran fine in between. So I checked the code and it was a TDC code coming in. So thinking it was timing I redid the timing within a half a tooth. Started the car up again after timing was done and was running extremely rough. Took off dizzy to find that the inside was totally trashed *should not have been running car at this point* But the car still ran. So I went and bought a brand new dizzy that matched the one that was on the car *down to the wire*. Installed and now I get no spark. *There are no codes on the ecu currently*

So there is my problem I've been trying to figure out for the past week running through everything I know and anything I can find to try to figure it out. Today I'm going to see if I can get the external coil tested to make sure that is not the problem.

Anyway thanks to anyone who takes a look and I'm open to any ideas because I have just about run out of them.


Solution: After diagnosing random parts with the guide I looked up right here http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_3.php I found the issue was the Cap and Rotor not making the connection properly. After installing a new tune up *cap, rotor, spark plugs, and wires* The car fired up instantly.

 

Bump.. Anyone?

 

? Wait, what would trash the inside of a distributor (dizzy?)?

 

As I had stated in my description of the issue the dizzy got trashed because 4 of the screws that held down the magnets on the inside managed to get loose and then it did a nice blender effect on everything on the inside.

 

You may have blown the 15a ecu fuse in the engine bay fuse box. Sounds like someone did a rebuild and didn't tighten down the screws all the way.

 

Did you check to make sure that the Ignition Control Module is working properly?

 

I have checked all fuses and they all seem to be fine. I also just got my external coil tested and it also appears to be working fine. I have not been able to check the ICM but I'll be checking that after work today.

Thanks for the help so far guys!

 

Correction I have tested the ICM *sorry had no idea what it was* but I had a new ICM on the new distributor that I had bought for the car as well as I have put the ICM from the distributor that was still starting the car into the new distributor as well and it made no difference.

 

You said that all the wires are good.. Does that mean, that you have checked for correct voltage? Are there any current codes showing?

 

No codes showing and I believe all the wires are good considering I have not changed anything wire wise since I have swapped out the distributor and it was running just fine before that.

 

I have been reading up on issues similar to this one were they have had issues with the wiring going from the ICM inside the distributor and some people having issues with there Igniters. Can anyone show me a picture with an external coil setup H22A with wires coming from the ICM or a picture of were a stock Igniter should be? Also the car it is in is a 1993 Honda accord just in case that makes a difference.

 

check for 12v at yellow black wire/pin at dizzy connector with key on

 

Ok I have checked my wiring going from the dizzy out by stripping all the wire protectors off. I have 11V going from the yellow black wire and hooked it straight to the main solid yellow wire that goes to a black yellow inside the dizzy. I have also hooked this wire directly into my external coil. Also I have connected my (-) side of my external coil onto a black/yellow wire that goes into my dizzy from the main (8 pin?) connection.

 

Ok so I was only getting 11V going from the main power *Black/Yellow* wire because my battery was almost dead. After a charge it reads a solid 12V. But still no spark. So we tested my coil some more and realized that when the positive is hooked up to the coil *tested with 2 different coils* it puts 12V power out both sides *(+) & (-)* which seems very strange to me because I thought coils were supposed to put out nothing on the (-) side until contact was made inside the dizzy. *We had the cap off the dizzy at the time of the test*

Not sure if that's wrong or not but it seemed very odd to us that it behaved this way which would lead us to believe that is the cause of no spark *no break in connection*.

Once again thanks for all the help so far I think we are getting closer to a solution .

 

Bump looking for any direction here.

 

You said you checked fuses and they seem to be fine ? That's not a definitive answer. They either are blown or not blown. You can't have a "seem to be fine". Check your fuses first, especially the one I said to check. If they are confirmed to not be blown then go from there.

Sounds like you're doing a hack job on your wiring. That's not the best thing to be doing.

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/

Use this site to test your ignition system.

 

Ok quick update.
holmesnmanny yes all the fuses are fine sorry for not making that perfectly clear. So that is not the issue.
I have used this site http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_3.php to test my ignition system and it appears to be the cap/rotor/plugs/wires that are not getting spark because we have comfirmed spark coming from my external coil now. I have replacement parts coming this weekend and I'll be able to install all the new stuff and see if it works.

Thanks for the help guys hopefully this fixes it!!!

 

Ok so the car finally RUNS!@#!@#!@#!@#!@# YAY!@#!@#!@#

Solution: After diagnosing random parts with the guide I looked up right here http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda..._systems_3.php I found the issue was the Cap and Rotor not making the connection properly. After installing a new tune up *cap, rotor, spark plugs, and wires* The car fired up instantly.

Thanks again guys for the help hopefully this will help some one else in the future.

 

You replaced the distributor but reused the old cap and rotor ?