Just got this 97 Honda and it won't start... checked for spark, gas, and did a compression check... everything good. But it still wont start. I popped the timing belt cover and belt good and timing marks good... I did however find that the ignition coil plug wire and in the coil was burnt to crisp... changed the coil and coil plug wire and still no difference... any suggestions of where else i need to look? would i still get spark if the ignitor is bad?

 

you could still get a spark, it just might be really weak. What color is it

 

im getting a white spark... but you might be right and spark weak. going to try at it again using an actual spark tester instead of the screwdriver in the plug wire technique... thx for posting on my thread. was beginning to think nobody was gonna pop up.

 

Does it keep just turning over and cranking? Or you turn the key and nothing?

 

its cranking... like i said, its getting spark. just not firing up. i loosened fuel line to the rail and got fuel pressure... did compression check... and still nothing. i used the old school way at checking for spark with a screwdriver and going to try an actual inline spark tester this time. soon as i hook up this remote starter since theres nobody in the shop to help me out today. frustrated but still determined to get this thing started...

 

Have you checked your main relay? Mine was acting up sort of like this and I came across a post saying to check the main relay and re-solder the joints if any are cracked. Worked like a champ and zero problems to this day...almost a year ago. Just a suggestion. Best of all....it's free.

 

I didnt check the relay directly but since it controls both the fuel injectors and fuel pump i did test the relay output wire to fuel injector resistor and fuel pressure and both turned out good. Im assuming that this was sufficient enough say that the relay is operating but if anyone knows that its not then let me know and I check the relay itself, otherwise im guessing that i am right.

 

I just did a more accurate spark test than before and it checked out good so now Im on to recheck compression. This time ill do the math to make sure none are below spec. Would I still get good compression if it jumped timing???

 

...

 

I see what you're saying. I think you're right.

When I was having my issue, Sometimes I would turn the key and nothing, not even the fuel pump kicking on. Then after a couple of attempts it would crank and crank and crank but no start. So my issue was different than yours.

So you have spark and fuel....dude I'm lost at the moment....let me do some research.

 

No CEL's or anything? Does your car have an immobilizer (a coded key)? I don't know when Accords came with this...

 

I'm reading a lot of main relay, ignition, and igniter issues on accord no-starts. So, relay seems to be fine....ignition or igniter maybe?

 

Not familiar with what CEL means but doesnt look like a coded key. The ignition switch has a green light on it and the light comes on if thats what you mean. Cranked it a few times and it sounded like it tried to fire up once but never did it again. Not sure if compression would show if it jumped time but after this compression check im going to pop the timing cover off and check to see if timing marks line up.

 

Check Engine Light (CEL).

From what I'm reading, 97's came with an immobilizer. I could be wrong but your no start could be from a wrong key man.

 

Mine did the same thing. I had to replace distributor cap and plugs, then I changed the oil put a little starter fluid in and bam she starts everytime now.

 

oh okay...lol sorry i only knew them as a malfunction indicator light *MIL*. thx for clarifying that. As for the key, it was working fine before the vehicle quit starting. The lady that owned it said it was running rough before it finally just stopped working.

 

thanks for the advice. Im hoping that these tests that im doing are accurate enough so I dont just throw money on parts that are working just fine. Im getting spark to the distributor and to all cylinders which would suggest that my cap and plug wires are good. I did a quick visual check of the plugs when i did my first compression check and seemed fine but since im doing another compression check, ill recheck them.

 

Lol, no sweat. I thought of it running fine before as I posted that response. I'm at a loss without having it in front of me to get my hands on it. Sorry man...

 

No check engine light on, but i still scanned it for DTCs and came up with nothing. not even pending codes. I did find that it had a MAP sensor issue before and i tested it and MAP sensor checked out good.

 

Just now thought about what you said where you replaced the plugs and remembered that the coil plug wire and coil were burnt to crisp at the connection. Im starting to think that maybe,.. just maybe the bad connection could of damaged the plugs... idk does that make any sense???

 

i hate jumping around when it comes to diagnosing things cause it can waste alot of time ... but i just cant help think that this is something simple and that Im overdoing this testing. This is what i get for half@ss checking things the first time. Now im rechecking what i already checked...smh

 

Just did a compression check and cylinders #1 #2 and #4 are way below the 15% spec.

 

Yes, but you've checked all the marks at the belt.
Please post your compression readings.
Check fuel pump wires (and fuses)

 

Heres the compression readings I got. I checked timing marks *white* on crankshaft pulley and they match up with camshaft marks.

dry test
#1-85psi
#2-120psi
#3-190psi
#4-105psi

wet test
#1-100psi
#2-130psi
#3-210psi
#4-110psi

 

with the compression readings i got, could this be a case of bent valves?... and if so, how can valves get bent if the engine isnt out of time?...